[Andre]

If you can find the length for alternator belt and PS belt, that would help. Then I can compare. I have a rear view mirror that is the GM replacement with a painted back instead of stainless. Nice mirror and will work till you want to spring for a more correct repo. I'll put that in the box. The best part of searching for this stuff helps me find other parts I had squirelled away.
Also found good spare starter and alternator but the weight on those is ridiculous

[boostmaster]

I was looking through my pics and this might help. I haven't looked up any numbers yet and I think I tossed the belts in a cleaning frenzy (I assumed that I would be using lots of new parts) I'll need to double check... I have parts inside the car, the garage and an exterior shelter that it covered in ice...Alternator looks relatively new from the pic. I will dig it up and have it tested along with the starter...

I have a bunch of car parts squirreled away as well. I think all car guys are prone to save parts for just in case... I've been to plenty of swap meets but since I don't know enough about what I'm looking at, I've probably passed by a bunch of great stuff!

[boostmaster]

A few more of the dash... Going to check through more of the pics to see what else I have questions on.

[boostmaster]

What's the little pronged item in the forefront?

[boostmaster]

When we purchased this car the "boss" was very specific about "NEEDING" a/c. This is a non-a/c car so I was going to retrofit it. I think Andre had made the point to skip the old original stuff and go with something like vintage air. I have some of the brackets and partial set up for original a/c (purchased before the vintage air option was floated)

It's been a while since I was thinking about a/c as I figured it would be WAY down the road. But, I saw this pic and was wondering if I install this heater core and the vintage air unit when I finally purchase it or it the vintage air unit is an all in one deal?

Just curious. (I hadn't had the unit cleaned or blasted as I think the vintage air unit will be an all in one...)

Ideas?

[Andre]

The vintage air unit replaces that entire assembly. You can use factory brackets and compressor/ dryer along with vintage air setup for a more stock appearance

[boostmaster]

I understand. I think I'll re-do the old unit and reuse it for the time being. The vintage air stuff is over $1k and not necessary to get the car running.

I went out and looked at my engine harness. It feels brittle and looks to have been spliced at some time. I'll just order a new one. The tail is chewed up in several spots. I could splice in new wire but for $100 or so, it may be easier to go new and avoid issues.

[gtospieg]

The little "pronged" item appears to me to be a horn relay

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by boostmaster

I understand. I think I'll re-do the old unit and reuse it for the time being. The vintage air stuff is over $1k and not necessary to get the car running.

I went out and looked at my engine harness. It feels brittle and looks to have been spliced at some time. I'll just order a new one. The tail is chewed up in several spots. I could splice in new wire but for $100 or so, it may be easier to go new and avoid issues.

Just a thought if you are going to go the vintage air way they supply you with block off plates for the firewall if you are doing eng compt would be a good time to do the firewall was allot easier wit the eng out if you need help with the air install just finished one.

[boostmaster]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

Just a thought if you are going to go the vintage air way they supply you with block off plates for the firewall if you are doing eng compt would be a good time to do the firewall was allot easier wit the eng out if you need help with the air install just finished one.

So, are you suggesting that I purchase the vintage air stuff now? Or do they sell the block-off plate individually?

My original intention was to do all OEM stock stuff. I've go the box that goes in the fender and the compressor mounting brackets.

Then after seeing Andre's resto and learning the benefits of a newer more efficient system, I figured I'd go with the vintage air set up. Ideally, doing a bit of custom job and hiding the long rubber hoses that look terrible (IMO) and clutter the engine bay... (One of my favorite things about old car engine bays is the lack of clutter- keeps things clean and simple)

Anyway, not sure if this block off plate is something that I will need or if I can re-use the old bits since I was going to route my hoses within the fender.

Do you have any pics? I'm always interested in learning something new. And exploring new ideas

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by boostmaster

So, are you suggesting that I purchase the vintage air stuff now? Or do they sell the block-off plate individually?

My original intention was to do all OEM stock stuff. I've go the box that goes in the fender and the compressor mounting brackets.

Then after seeing Andre's resto and learning the benefits of a newer more efficient system, I figured I'd go with the vintage air set up. Ideally, doing a bit of custom job and hiding the long rubber hoses that look terrible (IMO) and clutter the engine bay... (One of my favorite things about old car engine bays is the lack of clutter- keeps things clean and simple)

Anyway, not sure if this block off plate is something that I will need or if I can re-use the old bits since I was going to route my hoses within the fender.

Do you have any pics? I'm always interested in learning something new. And exploring new ideas

It was just a thought I know it's a big hit but just remember the V/Air hoses run under the fender they were very frustrating to do with the fender off can't imagine doing them with the fender on also the firewall block off plates where the hoses run through you have to have the fender off to install the plate for the hoses just thinking would be much easier with eng out and fender off these might help..








If you plan on using any other compressor than theirs the hoses come with the comp side fittings removed you have to clock them and then have them crimped then get them through the firewall can be done but getting them through the firewall with the fittings in is a bitch.

[charles bledsoe]

Boostmaster-

Go get you a Sears dwell, tach, and volt meter. Buy yourself the service manual and you should not have any problem. There are also quite a few post here describing how to set the points, adjust the dwell, and tune your car. There are also post on tuning the carb as well. The service manual is a must when working on these cars. Also the Internet and Google is your friend. Good luck!

[boostmaster]

Thank you gentlemen for the assist. I do have the service manuals (the original 1967 books), I also have the restoration guide and lots of google time under my belt.

I know I can figure this stuff out, it's just a matter of time. My issue is sort of like trying to teach myself to play the guitar when I was younger- You can learn the proper positions for the notes you want to hit (there's tons of books available to guide you) but, if you don't know what it's supposed to "sound" like, you'll never get it right.

For me it's like this with this car. I have a basic mechanical understanding. I do most all my own work save for auto trans and body work (I've tried it, not for me)... However, since I have never been properly exposed to the "old" cars, their workings are sort of a "lost art" to me... (and probably all of the folks younger than I).

Previously, cars seemed to be a simple matter. Lately, maybe it's just because it's a Pontiac, I'm finding that this brand has it's quirks. Heck, I've got an ongoing 3 page thread over stupid water pumps! (I've never given water pumps much thought until now) Anyway, I'm just asking tons of questions (stupid or otherwise) in an effort to insure that I don't screw it up.

[fyrffytr1]

I installed the M&H points conversion kit in my stock distributor and no longer have to deal with points. But, everything I did can be undone and the original points can be put back in. The installation was a little tricky as I was trying to do it with the distributor still in the car. Finally I marked the rotor button's position, took a digital photo as back-up and pulled the distributor out. It was much easier to do on the bench. You don't have to modify anything and it a one wire hook-up just like the points. If I can do it anyone can!
http://www.breakerless.com/

[rexs73gto]

Never feel bad about asking questions. A question asked is still IMO is just someone needing information that they don't have that they need & if someone makes fun of that person for asking that question is a fool themselves So never feel bad for asking any question..

[charles bledsoe]

Boostmaster, as rexs73gto stated above there are no stupid questions, and I believe asking questions is one of the main purposes for this web site. Soak in all the many references there are out there. I have many many manuals (as I have different types of cars) 7 different magazine subscriptions, numerous videos/DVD's on various subjects, and I find asking questions here helps me more than all the other reference material combined. I'm not sure if you look in the other sections like interior, suspension, engine, etc...but I find it very helpful to just spend time reading the other post even if I'm not working in that area. You can also use the search feature to look up old post as just about any problem has been addressed before. Try and find yourself a copy of MOTOR auto repair manual from the 60's, it explains the different systems very well. Good luck!! And remember if you have any questions ask, I have never had a question go unanswered that I asked these guys.

[GT182]

I have a Snap-on MT816B Tach and Dwell tester that works very well. Don't use it much except for the tach portion of it.

[boostmaster]

Thanks for the motivation! As I've stated before, I love to tinker and mess with cars and generally, we're pretty good at doing most all our own work. However, this is the first "older" car we're tackling and some of this stuff is brand new to me...

I started doing some reading about the distributor and am starting to get a better idea about it. I understand that if I want to keep it original/stock, I should have a new set of points, a new condenser, a new cap and new rotor. Our hose sells a tune up kit for $16.00.

I looked at the breakerless set up and it's very cool but it's also $170 and I figure that if I can get the car running for $16 vs. $170, I might give it a try. Worst case, I can upgrade later.

Here's a few pics of what I have. Can you all see any issues or things that I should address?

[charles bledsoe]

You might want to also get a new vacuum canister. You can get these items at your local auto parts store which will save you waiting for them to arrive by mail. Even if they don't have these items in stock at the store, they can have them there by the next day at the latest. Not sure how you tell if the springs and weights are shot or not so i just usually replace them anyway when I aquire another older car that I don't know the history on. They are not that expensive and can be bought at your local auto parts store. I use O'Rilleys as their parts seem to be better, but that is just my opinion.

[rexs73gto]

The Pertronix system 1 is only $ 89.95 & takes about 1/2 hour to put in. t's so much better then the old points & cond. parts & works a lot better. No more adjusting & tinkering with. Set it up & forget it for a long time. I've had mine in for pver 30 years with no problem at all.