FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Members Helping Members help Buying a non Pontiac item, transportation help, Handy-man advice, directions, vacation ideas, places to dine, ebay and generally anything you think might help other members. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Lawn tractor problems
When I first start my lawn tractor with Honda motor it runs rough and will only run at about 50 to 75% of full speed. Occasionally it will kind of backfire and shoot out a puff of black smoke. After running for several minutes, it will clear up and run great. My first instinct is to think stuck choke, but when I push in the lever to open the choke is it possible for it to stay closed?
Second problem. When I turn the key to start it nothing happens. If I hold the key on and turn the engine over by hand it will start. My guess is a bad spot in the starter, but these starters are very expensive and I want to be sure before I replace it. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Try a spark plug?? Also when you hold the key to start and nothing happens try tapping the starter if you can.(sm hammer) Brushes maybe sticking BTW is this a joke are you really using your lawn tractor thi time of year?
__________________
'68 GTO '69 Corvette '75 Cadillac Coupe Deville TOM |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
On the starting issue, I've seen it be the key switch, or the wiring between the switch and the starter, more often than it being the starter motor.
Jiggle the key around when you try to start it, if no joy, then look at the wiring ....usually from the key to a starter relay...then to the starter, or straight to the starter. Look for burnt up wires, corroded connections. When it comes to possible carb problems on lawn equipment, if it's older than five or six years, then I'll look into a new carb. I haven't had much luck rebuilding them, and I'm pretty good with carbs, kits aren't that cheap, and carbs aren't that expensive ...so between the cost of the kit, and the time it takes to rebuild, re-install, test etc. you are sometimes better off just getting a new carb. Look for a discount part supplier on the internet rather than the Honda dealer. I've used these guys and been happy with them http://www.jackssmallengines.com JohnnyB |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Salem, it's not a joke. I am still using the tractor, but mostly for mulching leaves. The leaves are still falling here.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Gregg |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Low oil shutoff?
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
My lawn was just mowed 3 days ago. Weeds were starting to get tall. Grass was a little uneven as well. Hopefully this will be last time until spring. I still have leaves turning colors and falling.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I thought someone was joking as well, Mines been in hibernation since late Oct. LOL.
__________________
64 Lemans hardtop 4spd, buckets |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Because of the junk gas we have now the gas may be eating up the internals of the carb just as they do in our cars. I had to take my snowblower in every othe year for the last 10 just to have the carb rebuilt by some one who can, I do't have luck with the little ones either, & I can take a Q-jet apart & put it back with my eyes shut. Also for yoyur ign. It is most likey like your were told in the previous post , check the wires to the ign. swithch to see if there corroded first because thats the biggest reason they don't start & the next is a bad battery. The batterys in those things aren't much bigger then a 9 volt battery in your clock radio or a cordless phone & last a lot less.
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
If it is an overhead valve engine, it is possible that your rockers have loosened up.
The exhaust lash also is the compression release to assist in starting. That may be why it wont start unless you turn the engine over by hand. Hope that helps.
__________________
Jeff 1968 GTO 400 4 speed 3.55 posi |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Key on no starter engagement... I say the starter is bad. Check with a voltmeter and see if there's power getting to the solenoid. If there's power and no start, then you know it's bad. You might be able to change out the brushes yourself. I've done it with my Kubota.... but the starter is like a mini car starter for a 3 cyclinder engine.
If you're still mulching leaves, then you'd better get out the air compressor and blow the dust and dirt off it... all over. I had the Kubota on my hoist today to change the oil, and what a dirty mess. Took it off and put the air to it.... I couldn't see the cement driveway under it when I was thru, it was so dirty. The radiator was plugged so bad it took me 20 minutes just to clean it with air. This machine has 677 hours on it since new in '92. Still using the 3 original sparkplugs and the original airfilter. It still runs better than a Deere. LOL
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
You put the Kubota on a hoist? Must b a big one.
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
If it's a normal lawn tractor it has no solenoid. Most of the modern tractors have a relay switch between the key switch and the starter, then a centrifugal sort of engagement system. The starter motor spins and drives a plastic gear up a spiral against spring tension until it engages the ring gear where friction keeps it in place until the key switch is turned off, then spring tension pushes the drive gear off the ring gear when starter motor torque is removed. The starter motors themselves rarely go bad (in my experience), but the key switches, the wiring, and the little plastic drive gear go bad often. I haven't seen the relay (assuming it has one) go bad too often.
Easy to tell if the drive gear is bad, the starter motor spins but nothing happens. If the engine runs with the key switch in the "on" position but no joy on the starter motor at all, it's typically the wiring between the switch and starter motor. There may be a fuse in the circuit, may be a relay. But I've seen more than one of them where the key switch drives the starter motor directly, and often this leads to burnt out connections in the wiring from key switch to starter, or burnt contacts on the key switch itself. This would be typical of a gas powered, single cylinder lawn tractor. My Kubota and my New Holland tractors both use automotive type starter systems that would be trouble shot the same way as a car system. If you continue to have problems the make/model of the tractor would come in handy. JohnnyB |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I just wiped a cam lobe in the Firebird, so the tractor is taking a back seat for now. dataway, FWIW it is a Craftsman 917.273500 tractor.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
I hate to hear that about the cam but I also have to say, do you or did you put in a bottle/can of ZZDP with EVERY oil change. The oil we have now is such junk you have to use that stuff with each oil change or thats what will happen. I speak from experience, I,m putting in my 2nd cam in 2 years right now. Sorry for the problems, just hang in there it only costs money for our hobby. Lots of it. But we continue on.
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Trying again
Well, here it is over a year later and I am trying it again. As a refresher, the starter won't turn the engine over with the ignition switch. If I turn the engine over by hand while trying to start, it will eventually start. I replaced the switch with no success. I checked the voltage from the ignition switch to the solenoid (actually a magnetic switch on this tractor) and get 12 V. If I connect the wire to the solenoid I only get 7 volts while trying to crank. The starter is engaging and acts like it wants to turn the engine over but can't. If I run a hot wire from the battery to the solenoid, it will crank over fine. Any suggestions?
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
My Craftsman had a separate starter button, mounted on the side of the cowl, when I bought it used. The previous owner had trouble with the key switch, so he just wired in a starter button not connected to the switch.
__________________
Bill 64 GTO, tube chassis w/606" IA tall deck, PG & a pro geared Fab 9". 2750 lbs. 8.2550@164.17-1/4, 5.2901@131.97-1/8, 1.1981-60-ft. 8/10/08 |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
I've had problems with my Honda lawn mower (with Honda engine ) building up corrosion between the starter motor and engine case which acts just like the starter not getting power.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
On mine I have this EXACT issue with a Honda motor and the starting. What mine is is that the gear that engages the flywheel DOES NOT RETRACT as it should. This means that instead of spinning and then shooting up to engage the ring gear, the thing is already engaged when you turn the key, and there is not enough juice to turn it. So, if you assist with hand turning it will work. If I bang on starter with a piece of re-bar to get the thing to retract before cranking, it starts fine.
I found this out after replacing the switch, which I have done on 2 mowers only to find in both cases that it was not the switch. I also have the running issue you have but mine only occurs when I initially engage the blade. Choking for a brief period remedies.
__________________
"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
[QUOTE=Deadhead;5336877]On mine I have this EXACT issue with a Honda motor and the starting. What mine is is that the gear that engages the flywheel DOES NOT RETRACT as it should. This means that instead of spinning and then shooting up to engage the ring gear, the thing is already engaged when you turn the key, and there is not enough juice to turn it. So, if you assist with hand turning it will work. If I bang on starter with a piece of re-bar to get the thing to retract before cranking, it starts fine.
I thought Deadhead might have the answer but I checked and the starter gear is not staying engaged with the flywheel. What I don't understand is that I am getting 12 volts from the ignition switch to the solenoid, the starter will click but it won't crank. I run a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid and it cranks right over. This doesn't make sense to me? |
Reply |
|
|