[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by transam1972

I am confused..did 80 amp get a rear holding bracket or not...sorry about this

80 & 55 amp both had them, they were just slightly different.

[transam1972]

I have a/c and edf...80 amp. setup but now realize I am missing the rear bracket...most everything seems to be complete and correct except that...I will have to find those parts.. at 58k it was missing some stupid stuff...like the clip for the purge hose..the passenger side heat stove and now this...thankyou for your help everyone

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by njsteve

The 80 Amp alternator, which is the one that is mounted in a non-adjustable position (the idler pulley sets the adjustment) has a large bracket in the rear with a spacer. If you ordered A/C and the rear defogger - the glass with the electric grid, you got the 80 Amp alternator. Here is a shot of the bracket and spacer and bolt from my 73 SD. Both of my 72's had the same set up as well.

BTW, the bracket is actually grey phosphate and not painted.

From what I have seen in Parts cars..., a Combo of AC and Power windows could get this 80 amp set up as well. Just an observation, not saying its Gold...

[Bentwheelbob]

Well, I am set for another year of fun with the cars in the Hot Rod Garage. The family and I are in NYC for our annual December pilgimage. We've been coming here at Christmas time since at least 2006 and it's become a great tradition. Yesterday we did some serious shopping and my wife got a small tokeen of my love and affection for her. This should see me through a repaint on the Black Car and maybe a new addition to the fleet. I'm thinking maybe a lucy blue Trans Am.... Thank goodness there does not have to be a 1 to 1 relationship.

BTW - I have two NOS thermac sensors at home waiting for me to return and test. Has anyone else broken out the vacuum pump and heat gun???

[Pepi]

I haven't yet, will try later today or sometime this week.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Mission creep is right! Nice stockpile of parts you have sitting around. What did you end up doing to protect the flange area on the air cleaner form boot scuffing?

Also, you may want to flatten out the glossy finish on the master cylinder. They should be flat black. I don't think it was a black phosphate finish as it appears to be a flat black paint on my 73 (or what's left of it).

So as Steve points out I need something to keep the air intake boots from scuffing the top of the snorkles. I have decided to give 3M Paint Defender a try. It is basically a spray on clear latex like material that is intended to be used as a spray on rock guard/bra that can be peeled off. Today I tried it out on a test basis using the lid on the old air cleaner which I am planning to media blast anyway. It seems like a pretty cool product. It sprays on thick, milky and with a strong orange peel appearance. As it cures it flattens out and turns clear. I'm pretty impressed. The only bad thing is that it is definitely higher gloss than the paint I used on the air cleaner. Here's a few pictures.

[Formulabruce]

Green/red scuff pad may tone that down, or 000 steel wool

[Bentwheelbob]

One last post on plumbing the air cleaner vacuum lines on Ram Air cars.




This is a video. Click to play.

[Pepi]

Interesting information. Thanks.

[The Boss]

That's cool!

[Rocky Rotella]

Bob, what publication is that in?

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Rocky Rotella

Bob, what publication is that in?

Rocky - Here you go. BTW - thanks for the book you wrote. It has been a huge help.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Green/red scuff pad may tone that down, or 000 steel wool

Bruce - thanks for the suggestion, but this stuff is basically a spray on vinyl coating that can be peeled off. I don't think it will ever get hard enough that it could be scuffed in a controlled. I may end up spraying both the snorkles and the lid.

I did the snorkles today and they turned out well. It still amazes how bad this stuff looks when you spray it on and then it cures and turns clear. It also seems to tighten up as it cures. The air cleaner lid looks even better today than last night with a smoother finish. Here's the snorkles.

[Held for Ransom]

Come back to post in a few threads.

Why did you use the green 6484244 ('73-up, think EGR) sensor instead of the correct black 6484242 ('68-72) unit?
I thought the '70-2 RA vent pipe tubes had the bend and went away in '73 (which had an angle cut on the end). Yours looks like a newer ('77-9) unit.

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Come back to post in a few threads.

Why did you use the green 6484244 ('73-up, think EGR) sensor instead of the correct black 6484242 ('68-72) unit?
I thought the '70-2 RA vent pipe tubes had the bend and went away in '73 (which had an angle cut on the end). Yours looks like a newer ('77-9) unit.

HFR is correct, the thermostatic sensor was black. At least they were on 70 and 71 2nd gens. My guess is green was used because the black ones are getting harder to find original. I have not looked for black ones in years, but 2-3 years ago I had difficulty finding the 3 that I bought, can only imagine they are harder to find,if at all, today. truth be told, probably doesn't really matter. No one sees these when the engine is put togather.So green,as long as it works the same, wouldn't really make any difference except for dead on originality.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Come back to post in a few threads.

Why did you use the green 6484244 ('73-up, think EGR) sensor instead of the correct black 6484242 ('68-72) unit?
I thought the '70-2 RA vent pipe tubes had the bend and went away in '73 (which had an angle cut on the end). Yours looks like a newer ('77-9) unit.

HFR - Merry Christmas, it's nice to hear from you. I hope everything is good in the great white north.

Bill's partially correct in that I could not find a 4242 at a reasonable price, but found two NOS 4244's at a great price. I elected to go with that since at least it had the AC logo and looked much better than the current Delco replacements. If someone has a 4242 they want to trade for a 4244 let me know.

Thanks for the knowledge on the vent tube. I already replaced it with a correct repop that I had stashed away for when I finally get restarted on installing the 455HO in the Red Car.

I've also installed the correctly stamped upper radiator hose I got from Greg and shot the air cleaner lid with 3M paint defender so that it matches the glossier snorkles. It looks much better with the high gloss. I'll try to post some pictures later.

[Bentwheelbob]

As posted earlier, I coated the air cleaner snorkles with 3m Paint Defender to prevent the ram air boots from scuffing the paint due to the friction fit. I had never used this 3M product before and have to say it is pretty cool and very user friendly. Essentially it is like a spray on vinyl coating - sort of a liquid saran wrap - that you can peel off. The product comes with a synthetic wax you apply before spraying to aid in the removal. The product cures to a high gloss and once I did the snorkles, and did the test on the extra lid, I decided to do the lid I am using because the paint was much less glossy than the snorkles. Well the lid looks great and frankly the high gloss looks much better under the hood than the flatter finish it had. Also as mentioned above, I got the correctly marked radiator hose courtesy of Greg "165th" and it is now installed. Here are a few pictures including a couple showing the 3M Paint Defender being peeled off the extra lid. I will definitely use the 3M product once the black car is painted.

[Bentwheelbob]

I've had a few posts about the master cylinder needing to be refinished. The astute viewer may have noticed on yesterday's post the big spot where paint has lost adhesion and gone awol. Well, we pulled the master cylinder this morning to bead blast and refinish it, but upon pulling it found that the piston was leaking. All in all, upon getting it off it is an ugly mess. Steve had recently had it rebuilt, so it will be sent back to the shop that last touched it for another attempt. Nothing is easy. Here's a few pictures.

[Formulabruce]

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

[70RAlll]

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..