[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Can you be convinced to sell-off your 4-piston setups, BUY the single-slug calers for a 70- or 70 GTO/ GP, 79T/A buy the $25 rotors and have cash left to buy a case of good beer.

IIRC - 5 x 4 3/4 bolt pattern

The70 Bonneville rotors& calipers will require the spindle, whichs runs into ball joint tapers:
uppers easy. Lowers probably diff & likely need
big-car lowers. use big-car tie-rod end for matched tapers & hope for turnbuckle compatability.

...going by memory.

IIRC - 5 x 5 bolt pattern

[66bonne]

Not to get off topic but I don't mess with Vettes anymore either. They're too slow and the owners can't drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8gUEuDuQTQ

Jim

[66bonne]

Alvin is correct on the 70 Bonne lug pattern.

Jim

[66bonne]

http://brakeperformance.com/index.php

I got a set a big car rotors from these guys. Looks like they have a lot of stuff.

Jim

[dennis kirban]

My thoughts on the subject of Corvette owners.......being in the mail order business we make various Corvette parts mostly C5 and C6 besides Mustangs and Turbo Buicks.

Here is a true story.

As you might have guessed Corvettes and Turbo Buicks are from the GM family. As such some parts are identical on a 1987 Grand National as they are on certain year Corvettes.

In our packaging of a certain chrome cap cover for the radiator overflow bottle on the printed directions in the heading it read 1984-1987 Turbo Regals and It read certain year Corvette years can't member which years at the moment.

This one major Corvette company calls us up and says they are getting complaints from some of their customers because on the directions it listed the Turbo Regal...on the directions not the part just on the directions!

amazing....

denniskirban@yahoo.com

[chevymad]

Old thread but I used big car spindles with 3d gen 1LE 12" rotors. This combo fits under my stock 74 rally II's.

[ho428]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Please excuse my ignorance if I'm missing your parts quest dilemma with this suggestion:

With the need to use 11" rotors why not simply use 2nd gen TA/Firebird rotors and single piston calipers? Ex: 1978 WS6 Trans Am

Understand desire to use a 4-piston caliper, but I'd imagine that the 2nd gen parts would be plentiful, available, and work with your 15" wheels. Yes?

I must be missing a basic premise in the rules or ?

.

I ran a single piston set up for one season, literally boiled the fluid out of the calipers. Lost all braking during the races.
Put my 4 pistons on with A LOT of ducting, used some Motul brake fluid and finally got them to survive 40 minute races.

The OEM 4 piston set up is going on my 68 Convertible to replace the drums.

[Overkillphil]

Dennis, they have never gotten over their asses being handed to them by Turbo Buicks in 86-87.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by chevymad

Old thread but I used big car spindles with 3d gen 1LE 12" rotors. This combo fits under my stock 74 rally II's.

Yes, I vaguely remember that excellent detailed retrofit.

Any Thread link or topic subject title for search?

[ho428]

The overall irony in this for me is after I had all these discussions with the rules people in Vintage racing about how difficult it is to come up with a brake package, I ended up switching race sanctions where I was able to run whatever system I wanted.

Now, this year, our race group has been "invited" to run an event with them.
Nothing against period correct OEM classes, but it's definitely not for everyone, it can be very difficult to keep a car up and running using period correct parts.

Biggest difference other than rules is we run two 40+ minute races per weekend event, anywhere from 8-10 events per season. We need parts that can withstand that kind of abuse.
They run two 25 minute races at 3-5 events and a lot of them have crews take care of their cars.
A lot of their cars are built just for the short races, where I can tell a huge difference in my car once I get past the 25 minute mark, that's where taking care of the equipment early in the race starts coming into play.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by ho428

The overall irony in this for me is after I had all these discussions with the rules people in Vintage racing about how difficult it is to come up with a brake package, I ended up switching race sanctions where I was able to run whatever system I wanted.

Now, this year, our race group has been "invited" to run an event with them.
Nothing against period correct OEM classes, but it's definitely not for everyone, it can be very difficult to keep a car up and running using period correct parts.

Biggest difference other than rules is we run two 40+ minute races per weekend event, anywhere from 8-10 events per season. We need parts that can withstand that kind of abuse.
They run two 25 minute races at 3-5 events and a lot of them have crews take care of their cars.
A lot of their cars are built just for the short races, where I can tell a huge difference in my car once I get past the 25 minute mark, that's where taking care of the equipment early in the race starts coming into play.

Great info!

Interested in what are the approximate miles driven at 40 and 25 minute marks? What sanction are you now with where you can run anything?

[ho428]

On Road Atlanta's 2.54 miles, in NASA we can and have run 24 laps without a full course caution.
That's over 60 miles for the fasted cars. One race Saturday, one Sunday, plus roughly 30-35 miles of practice and qualifying over the two days.

The PC 25 minute races have a parade lap so it's probably closer to 20 minutes actual race time, so divide by two, or 30 miles.

Factor in some races will have FCC's and some tracks are shorter-slower.
I figured it once based on the amount of laps I ran at various tracks over the year and it was around 800 miles by the end of the season.

The link below has all the rules.

[higgenslake]

link?

[ho428]

Originally Posted by higgenslake

link?

It's my signature, but I guess some have that function turned off?

http://outlaw-vintage-racing.com/