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#1
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Hey, I am heading to the states for surgery in 2 weeks (yes, a Canadian heading to the states for surgery..go figure). Anyway, I am going to land into Tulsa, OK and have some time there for a while, so I thought I would make a purchase list to do while I am there. I can get OEM style parts at cost from Napa, but all "performance" parts are another 1/3 to 1/2 more than the USA. So I figured I should get a list going of what I need. Keep in mind i will be flying, so it's not as though taking some heads or a block over is any option. Most you guys know what's going on with my car because I have become "that guy" on this forum. All parts are for a 67 motor and 69 body. Here is what I have thought of so far:
1) timing light 2) Pertronix 40011 coil (pertronix point elimintor kit/new wires going on) 3) Possibly a new carb with an electric choke. I think a lot of my stress is a gummed up carb with a sticky choke and an improper bracket . This is making me miserable, and I think a lot of the stress would be gone if I got a nice new carb and can sell this old one locally. Any suggestions would be great (right now I have an Edelbrock 1405) Any other suggestions ? Im willing to go there with an empty travel bag to take some stuff home
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#2
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Darth IMHO you would be better off with the correct Rochester carb if your engine is a 67 GTO engine. Unfortunately the 67 Rochester carbs are hard to find and quite pricey. From what I have heard in 67 only the 400 that was in the GTO used the Rochester carbs all other Pontiac's using the 400 motor used Carter carbs. This is the reason for the high cost. I'm sure if this is not correct someone will chime in.
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1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
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#3
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Post a thread in the Lobby saying you are coming to Tulsa and need some help picking out parts to take home. I'm sure some local folks could give you some direction.
There's a couple guys in the forum from there. musclecollector is there. Steve Hoog is there too. Maybe you could ping one of them. In particular they might be helpful finding a good carb.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '74 Ventura 350 '69 AMC Javelin SST |
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#4
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where are you having surgery? why Tulsa????
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#5
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Long story short I had my third daughter in 2007 and got my balls snipped shortly after. We decided we want more kids (they are so much fun, and I am only 30) so I am flying to Tulsa, OK, and driving to some city/town near there where a Dr will splice it back together. It will cost me about $2500 to fly there, get it done and my back versus paying $5000-$7000 to have it done locally. The joys of living in Canada. The gov will pay to have sex changes, but not sauder my balls back together so they work.
I figured I should snag some stuff in my spare time in Tulsa. My parents live in the FL half the time and we always get them to bring a car load of stuff when they come, but they are coming in May, and I want to get some stuff before then. |
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#6
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#7
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You don't need a 67 or 68 carb to work well on that motor assuming you aren't worried about numbers. Newer model quadrajets are actually better anyway, or so I've read. Nothing wrong with slapping an edelbrock on it if that's what you want to do. Keep in mind you will need what is called a spread bore baseplate or use an adapter.
They have some pretty slick digital timing lights these days.
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#8
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#9
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ah, so if that is the case then you probably have the a-dapter kit.
The 1406 is an electric choke, not sure about the other differences. From what I have read the 1406 has more of an economy based tune.
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#10
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Darth, I have an excellent Carter AFB - Competition Series 4bbl carb with the electric choke for sale. It is not a spread bore carb. This is the 2nd generation Carter carb made by Weber.. before Edelbrock got ahold of them, and IMPO screwed them up. But that's only my personal opinion. Send me a PM and I can tell you what I want for it if you're interested. These are harder to find that the Quadrajets, and work just as well.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#11
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Also, as some of you know I am getting pertronix electronic ignition. I hate to sound stupid, but is there a purpose of getting a new cap/rotor or does that become pretty much null and void when going to electronic ignition? |
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#12
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#13
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Good luck on your reconstruction surgery.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Txbobcat For This Useful Post: | ||
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#14
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After multiple jet (primary & secondary) changes, metering rods changes and primary spring changes, I have it running decent. But it still barely gets better MPG's than my 490rwhp station wagon with a modified HP950 double pumper.
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'73 T/A (sold). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 317rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust |
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#15
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Thanks. Kind of sucks spending money on a gamble. Also sucks I have to fly to the States to get it for so much less than Canada.
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