[mrtonegto]

Looking for a new 110volt MIG welder that's not Chinese and something like a Lincoln 135.
Want something small for sheet metal for the new project.

Anyone hear of any sales, deals, discounts?

Recommendations?

[gto_ron]

I use a Hobart Handler 110V MIG welder. I bought the gas kit and I'm happy with the results. With the inert gas it welds sheet metal very well. I have an older one with copper windings on the step-down transformer. Most of the Chinese units use aluminum windings. They run hotter and have a shorter duty-cycle. Can't help with any discounts. I'd look for a remanufactured unit. Most of the power tools I own are remanufactured and I've never had a problem; most are like new.

[mrtonegto]

Thanks Ron, any leads on remanufactured sources / websites?

[fiedlerh]

Miller has good quality and pretty good resale value. I think I paid around $800 for my 115V MIG that I set up for flux or stainless & tri-gas and I sold it for $700 a couple of years later. Interesting thing was a 20-something young lady bought it for her art creations. She tried it out and ran a pretty good bead. The Miller worked flawlessly as long as you kept the tip clean and sprayed it now and then with the non-stick spray like you would with any welder.

A few years ago the best deals for new Miller products were on ebay from a dealer in Indianapolis. Don't know about today.

[NBF823]

I don't have much advice. Just I find the more adjustability in the voltage, the better if your messing with thin stuff.

I'll need to buy a mig soon. I passed up a lincoln with A,B,C,D settings on it. I have a little 110 mig that's just high and low, and I can tell you I've welded a lot of stuff with that, but it leaves a lot to be desired. I use a miller 250 mig at work and that welder is awesome. I bought a miller 200sync tig, and control is spectacular on that also(amp control). I've seen a lot of guys get convinced they just can't weld good over the years when they're dealing with lesser machines. If you try real hard and use the machine often, you can find the sweet spots, but adjustability is king in my opinion and its worth it to spend on a good machine.

[mrtonegto]

That's funny Jon B, your saying exactly what I was thinking...........
I think adjustability is paramount since sheet metal work will be the majority of what I'll use it for. I've got a Miller TIG that I'm not at all proficient with yet, it's a stick welder also but there again, I've got a lot to learn. But between those two I should be able to cover most of what a little MIG can't handle.
Great input from all, thanks!

[NBF823]

I do a lot of sheet metal with the tig - it's mainly what I use. It warps things real easy, but I can fill an unbacked hole with it. Actually I can form a weld bridge across the center of a hole if I want by heating a cooling the filler as I go.

Often on thin sheet I place the filler wire before I make a puddle and melt it down in - you can see the metal weld in good. After you let off, if the cherry fades into the panel its good. If there's a definitive line on the cherry, it's probably not enough pen. You can also do strange things like fill in rust pits and build up super thin spots.

One thing I think about trying is when replicating spot welds. I was taught with a Mig and to drill the outer panel and fill the hole(plug weld). I do this same method with the tig. I like to watch the bottom panel puddle then ad the filler. But thing thing I think about trying; is to not drill the outer panel hole and burn it with the torch then make the plug weld.

I'm getting ok with the tig. Not all my weld are stacked dimes. Often they are, but my current project is an old car that's not exactly fitted with superior precision so a consistent travel method isn't always an option. Doing new steel, dimes are pretty common. I imagine 95% of this current car will be done by tig.

[2002Z4CSS]

I own a Lincoln 135 amp 110V wire feed mig welder and it is an awesome machine with plenty of heat adjustability. I am glad I bought it. Miller is nice too but a lot more money.

[Rob B]

I've had a couple different 110V 135-140amp welders over the years. The last one was an Eastwood 135 gas mig. It welded sheet metal perfectly but would struggle on thicker gauge steel. I would always borrow my buddy's 250 welder for stuff like that. The Eastwood also used a TON of gas by the design of the gun (not from improper gauge setting). So I finally bit the bullet and went out and bought a new welder when it came time to do the work on my car this time around. Did a bunch of researching online and decided to go with the Miller 211. Best decision I could have made!!! The welder works on 110 and 220 and is a beast in a smaller cabinet design (which makes it easier to store). Amperage range is 140-210. Using 110 volt, this welder WILL easily penetrate and weld cleanly 10 gauge (.125), not that I did my welds that way but by testing and playing around. Using 220, it easily handles any welding a home hobbyist or small shop can throw at it do it beautifully. Hobart is the "big box" brand of Miller. You can buy basically the same welder under the Hobart name for around $8-900. The difference between the two is the Miller has infinite heat settings and wire speed adjustments plus it has an auto feed feature that lets the welder adjust the wire speed. Hobarts have 6-7 set heat range settings and thats it. The cost on the Miller was $1059 4 month ago from a local welding supply house. I also got a $150 rebate if I bought X amount of accessories which basically gave me the accessories for free. I believe they have a different rebate going on now.
Spend a little extra money now and get the last welder you'll ever need and be done with it, you will not regret it. I wish I would have years ago.

[klunker]

too bad your not closer, Iv'e got a Miller that I'd like to dump. Don't use it, have another larger mig I use for everything.

[1968firebird455]

I also have a Miller 211 and it gets used just about every day for the past 4 years. Having the ability to weld from sheet metal all the way to plate steel with one machine was very appealing. If you are doing just sheet metal get the Miller 110 unit. I have had a lincoln 140 and there is a night and day difference between the two. The miller gives you much more adjustment of wire speed and amperage. Also I feel the rolls opperate much smoother and gives more consistant wire feed. Also for sheet metal we use .023 wire so a nice roll set is crucial. This is one piece of shop equipment you don't want to have dictated by price. Buy the best you can afford and don't look back.

[mrtonegto]

Klunker,
PM sent. Let me know....................

Tone

[mrtonegto]

According to the Miller website, the Millermatic 140 Auto-set is the smallest unit they sell.

At Lincoln the smallest is the POWER MIG® 140C MIG Welder - K2471-2

[Rob B]

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...p?model=M00245
This is the welder I was talking about. Read the info on the site/add. The Smooth start is awesome and 100% true. Spend the extra cash now and you'll never look back. You'll find you can nevr have enough welder as time goes on, this one fills the need. Google the welder and the only complaint you'll find about it is the fan is a little loud. It just lets you know its working and on.
The price on the website is retail straight from Miller but I was able to get it for $1059 from a local supply house plus the rebate, your price may vary.