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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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The weekend I am pulling the engine from my 67 GTO to paint it. The majority of my research suggests it’s not necessary to prime the motor but to get it really clean. Now I’m looking for the Pontiac Blue Metallic in a quart can, not rattle. Any suggestions?
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1967 GTO, hard top, 400 Block, Butler Performance Build, EFI Holley Sniper, Tremec 5-Speed, Moser 373 Rear, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes |
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#2
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ppg/ditzler 13255, dupont 181-97219
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#3
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Anyone using a DP primer underneath? If so how is it holding up, would like to go this route on all my builds.
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#4
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I used this KBS motor coater when I painted the engine (in place) in January. The Pontiac Metallic Blue looks pretty good. They also have Pontiac light blue available. After a few miles (less than 20) I do have some slight discoloration on the exhaust ports on the head and a little less discoloration on the center ports of the intake manifold.
Not sure if any of these paints stand up to the temps without discoloration. (on cars that are actually driven) I also used this Xtreme High temperature paint on my rusty old exhaust manifolds. (used cast iron gray color) They look really good with no discoloration to date. Overall I am pleased with the results. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Motor-Coater.html http://www.kbs-coatings.com/XTC.html |
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#5
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Can these be mixed in normal enamel or is it some type of high heat paint? My dealer mixed some years ago and it was just enamel, and I've been hesitant to use it. I understand it won't hold up near the exhaust ports, but will it hold up ok everywhere else? Any recommendations on type of paint, hardener, etc.
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'67 GTO Convertible - a couple extra HP, On the road! '68 GTO Convertible - in frame off stage '67 GTO Hdtp, HO 4 speed - next |
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#6
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You can just go to Bill Hirsch he sells it in quart cans. Another option for you.
No paint stands up to the heat on the crossover or exhaust bosses no matter what anyone tells you. |
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Thank you all for your tremendous advice; I’ll decide tonight and place an online order in the morning. Currently I am separating the engine from tranny to mount on the engine stand.
The next thought of choice is cosmetics, that is for example paint the engine pulleys black and other parts to show detail.
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1967 GTO, hard top, 400 Block, Butler Performance Build, EFI Holley Sniper, Tremec 5-Speed, Moser 373 Rear, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes |
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#9
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When I painted my pulleys I used the duplicolor high heat primer followed by duplicolor high heat gloss black. It has a really nice look and I was very impressed with how it turned out. I've used other spray bombs that just looked dull once they dried but the duplicolor really holds its gloss. I prime everything before I paint it. Gives the top coat of paint just a little more protection from the heat. I used the Duplicolor pontiac blue Metalic paint (de1616) and it lays out really nice with 2-3 really light coats followed by 1 medium coat.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#10
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To get the paint to not burn off the exhaust runners on the heads, the old trick was to spray the runners first with a very light coat of VHT Flameproof Aluminum paint using as thin a coat as possible that will cover.
You then spray the heads with your Pontiac Silver blue everywhere except the exhaust runners and lightly mist the silver blue over into the aluminum paint on the runners, not so much to cover but just to tint them slightly but leaving the aluminum color showing through. Too thick a coat will burn off, but the light coat of high heat aluminum will stay for a long time and the blends right in with the silver blue. On my current motor, I just painted the whole exhaust side of the heads with Eastwood's stainless steel high heat paint and then masked and painted the rest of the head with the blue. It is a no maintenance deal that looks good and hasn't burned off or discolored. For brackets and pulleys, I used Black epoxy enamel. It dries super tough and has a glass-like smooth finish to it. |
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#11
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I need a pint to touch up some small areas,anybody shed some lite on this???
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#12
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The light blue paint for the 72-73 cars seems to hold up the best. I don't know why but the Met blue seems to turn on the exhaust man.'s but the light blue doesn't. I'm not paint expert but the light blue works best. I like the Met Blue on all Pontiac engines but it's not correct for my 73 so I use it. But the Met. blue I think is the best looking color for Pontiac use.
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#13
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Quote:
I always apply DP epoxy primer before painting a clean engine. two coats, then wait at least a couple of hours before putting color on. It goes without saying that if it's not clean, it won't matter what you put on it. |
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#14
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Anyone use a clear coat after a new paint is applied? Any pictures of these painted engines?
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![]() 69 OHC ZH Sprint Hurst 3 Speed 3:55 (1 of 213) 99 Valkyrie 1520cc Flat 6 108hp/110tq - For Sale http://sohcsix.yuku.com/forums/1/OHC-lounge Wanted: 1969 OHC "H" Camshaft |
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#15
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I may be way off base but, when your black car sits out in the hot august sun, the paint doesn't burn off and i bet it is every bit as hot as most of the engine gets (170-190f) excluding exhaust ports and crossover. Most cars are baseclear so i suspect it would work.
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It's hard to soar like an eagle, when you're surrounded by turkeys! My wife says she'd llike my car a lot more if it wasn't mine. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam. |
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#16
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I bought my Pontiac Blue paint from Bill Hirsch; looks like a pretty close match to me although it tends to have a silverish hue in the bright sunlight. I just hope it last. The smooth metal such as the oil pan was cleaned spotless over and over with acetone. The block though was difficult to clean thoroughly. Even a pressure washer could not get it squeaky-clean. I think I may put on a 2nd coat. I’ll let it cure for about 2 weeks before I start it. New valve covers are to be delivered today.
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1967 GTO, hard top, 400 Block, Butler Performance Build, EFI Holley Sniper, Tremec 5-Speed, Moser 373 Rear, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes |
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#17
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NeighborsComplaint: Thanks for the header pant advice; regrettable though, I was not able to follow your advice to the “T” because I’m pressed for time to get the engine back in to complete the body work.
I sand blasted the headers, cleaned with acetone, then sprayed them with Bill Hirsch Aluminum 2000 degree paint. Somehow I don’t expect the paint to hold up.
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1967 GTO, hard top, 400 Block, Butler Performance Build, EFI Holley Sniper, Tremec 5-Speed, Moser 373 Rear, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes |
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#18
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I never clear coat an engine. Why would you? I've seen a Pontiac engine that someone cleared and it was turning yellowish from the heat.
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#19
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I did 2 engines side by side, one with DP and one without. With DP on it, the color was wrong. So now I clean clean clean, and spray right on the bare steel. Seems to hold up just fine. Ive never tried Pontiac blue yet, but I have done a couple chevy orange engines (on bare) with eastwood ceramic paint and it seems to be real nice. Color holds out nice and looks real good.
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#20
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Also I did clear coat my own engine 9 years ago. My body color was very close to the correct metallic blue engine color, so I base/cleared the engine too. Looked incorrect of course, but did look really good and held up for about 7 years. I blocked off the crossovers on my engine. I think have a pic somewhere that I will see if I can find.
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