[twincities62vert]

Well I did some searching on here but couldn't find a whole lot other than Keith's mention of crappy grounding etc. in his LED conversion post. I was chasing electrical gremlins this weekend and am not electrically inclined. I removed the old cassette player and wiring to clean up the mess under the dash but these issues were here prior to that.

Here is what I have:
Headlights and tail lights work.
All turn signals work except right rear.

No brake lights.

I still have to pick up a tester but all fuses look good albeit some rust on the contact areas. Both filaments are working on the bulbs. I also looked over the wiring schematic. I am not sure if this is even the correct fuse block and there are some extra wires/connectors under the dash. The main disconnected/broken wire in question is a green one on the steering column. I thought it may be the horn or connected to the lights but did not get anything when I connected it.


One of the grounding posts where the bulb goes is broke off slightly on the right rear. Would that affect one or both brake lights but not the tail lights? Also, how do you access the other end of the grounding wires to check? I couldn't see anything from below.

Lastly the brake switch seems like it doesn't fit or meet with the pedal correctly as I can only to get it to "click" by hand and not with the pedal. It seems like it is off centered slightly. Either way still no brake lights.

And to Caveat, there are no light bulbs in the rear armrests. Didn't know if that would break a circuit anywhere.

Just thought I would run it by the experts first and see if I am missing any steps I should do besides try and clean the fuse block, check wires/brake switch power/grounds, and possibly buy new bulb sockets and brake switch.

Thanks in advance,
Todd

[ahnuld]

grounding post is one issue but check it with test light for ground, but brake lights run through turn signal switch so you definitely have electrical gremlins to chase. Someone here will have the wiring diagram for steering column and go from there. diagram is here http://pontiacwiring.0catch.com/

[twincities62vert]

Originally Posted by ahnuld

grounding post is one issue but check it with test light for ground, but brake lights run through turn signal switch so you definitely have electrical gremlins to chase. Someone here will have the wiring diagram for steering column and go from there. diagram is here http://pontiacwiring.0catch.com/

Thanks, I appreciate it. It is raining today so I guess I will scope that diagram out some more then hit it fresh in a day or two. Between that and poking and prodding 12 gallons of expandable foam and roofing tar out of each front fender wheel house I need a break anyway.

Thanks again.

[Radman]

As mentioned in an earlier post. The brake light signal goes through the turn signal switch. It is on the outside of the steering column. 1. Use a tester (light, or meter) and see if you have v12 volts on one side of the brake switch. 2. The brake switch should have voltage on both sides when the pedal is depressed. 3. That voltage then goes to the turnsignal switch. That switch feeds the brake light that is not in use as a turn signal at that time. 4. The turn signal switch should feed both lights as brake when in the center position. That is one of the adjustments for that switch. You need to slide it up or down the steering column to feed the left, right, and in center both lights.
OK, things to check. 1. 12 volts at the brake switch. 2. 12 volts exiting the turn signal switch. 3. There is a plug from the front under dash harness, to the rear harness. Make sure it has good connections. 4. Good light bulbs. 5. Power at the light sockets, if you have power and no light look at the grounds.
Oh yea, Ames has the schematic for the car. Look in the Tempest catalog.

[twincities62vert]

Originally Posted by Radman

As mentioned in an earlier post. The brake light signal goes through the turn signal switch. It is on the outside of the steering column. 1. Use a tester (light, or meter) and see if you have v12 volts on one side of the brake switch. 2. The brake switch should have voltage on both sides when the pedal is depressed. 3. That voltage then goes to the turnsignal switch. That switch feeds the brake light that is not in use as a turn signal at that time. 4. The turn signal switch should feed both lights as brake when in the center position. That is one of the adjustments for that switch. You need to slide it up or down the steering column to feed the left, right, and in center both lights.
OK, things to check. 1. 12 volts at the brake switch. 2. 12 volts exiting the turn signal switch. 3. There is a plug from the front under dash harness, to the rear harness. Make sure it has good connections. 4. Good light bulbs. 5. Power at the light sockets, if you have power and no light look at the grounds.
Oh yea, Ames has the schematic for the car. Look in the Tempest catalog.

Thanks man. Very detailed. I appreciate it.

[Peter Serio]

The biggest problem with the rear lights that I ran into on my 63 Lemans was poor grounds at the bulb socket(s) in the trunk.

I ended up replacing most if not all of the rear sockets in my car because the tab that makes a ground was either weak, corroded and/or broken off. Because the bulbs back there are 1157s when you loose your ground the current then back-feeds thru the other filament causing all kinds of strange symptoms.

[twincities62vert]

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

The biggest problem with the rear lights that I ran into on my 63 Lemans was poor grounds at the bulb socket(s) in the trunk.

I ended up replacing most if not all of the rear sockets in my car because the tab that makes a ground was either weak, corroded and/or broken off. Because the bulbs back there are 1157s when you loose your ground the current then back-feeds thru the other filament causing all kinds of strange symptoms.

I understand, mine definitely has a broken off tab but I was uncertain the relevance since the tail lights still worked. I guess even if I can iron out the issue with the other steps/suggestions provided it would be a good idea to swap those out anyway to eliminate any future complications.

BTW, I see yourself and Radman are located in Ohio. I was born and raised in Warren, Ohio (Youngstown area).

Thank you for your input.

[CONCRETEHART]

Originally Posted by Peter Serio

The biggest problem with the rear lights that I ran into on my 63 Lemans was poor grounds at the bulb socket(s) in the trunk.

I ended up replacing most if not all of the rear sockets in my car because the tab that makes a ground was either weak, corroded and/or broken off. Because the bulbs back there are 1157s when you loose your ground the current then back-feeds thru the other filament causing all kinds of strange symptoms.

please do not use 1157 bulbs they melt the lenses use the proper bulbs which are # 1034

[twincities62vert]

Originally Posted by CONCRETEHART

please do not use 1157 bulbs they melt the lenses use the proper bulbs which are # 1034

Duly noted. Thank you.

[rdtripn_rte66]

I put in new led bulbs last yr in rear sockets, no issues w heat. EBay sells cheap lots vs auto parts store. Robin

[twincities62vert]

Originally Posted by rdtripn_rte66

I put in new led bulbs last yr in rear sockets, no issues w heat. EBay sells cheap lots vs auto parts store. Robin

Cool, thanks.