[charlie66]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I am sorry I will not be a help to you on fitment for E-heads with stud mounted rockers. Our E-heads were bought without push rod holes and we had an offset rocker arm shaft system. That made push rod size and placement pretty easy. I am sure others will chime in and help out with your specific stud mounted situation. Even if you end up with 3/8" push rods, use the stiffest ones you can get. Manton Engineering in Lake Elsinore, CA is one of the premier push rod manufacturers in the business. Once you establish the length and maximum diameter you can fit, they can make them and ship in a week or so. Remember, they can make single and tapered ends for you to fit the tight areas. Again, push rods may be a contributor to your problem, but I think there is something additional going on. Best of luck with that cool engine.

Thank you.
Are yours tapered?

I'll give them a call tomorrow..

I don't think the lifter was bouncing because it looks like new still. Here's a picture..

[mgarblik]

Yes we ran tapered ones but for a different reason. We needed the taper at the bottom so the large diameter of the push rod would not interfere with the side of the lifter. We ran an offset lifter seat. At the rocker arm end we needed the taper for clearance with the dog leg shaft rocker arm. Your situation with stud mounted rockers will be different. Your lifters do look good. But as a final check, if you have an old sheet of window glass laying around, put it on a work bench. Then lay a piece of newspaper over the glass and spray it with WD-40 to stick it to the glass and provide traction for the lifter wheel. Then push the lifter firmly on the glass/newspaper and roll it over the glass. If you hear any "crackling" noise or feel anything at all in your fingers, other than super smooth, the lifter needles are failing, or there is crap in them. It is an excellent,easy test for roller lifters. Good luck getting this fixed.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Yes we ran tapered ones but for a different reason. We needed the taper at the bottom so the large diameter of the push rod would not interfere with the side of the lifter. We ran an offset lifter seat. At the rocker arm end we needed the taper for clearance with the dog leg shaft rocker arm. Your situation with stud mounted rockers will be different. Your lifters do look good. But as a final check, if you have an old sheet of window glass laying around, put it on a work bench. Then lay a piece of newspaper over the glass and spray it with WD-40 to stick it to the glass and provide traction for the lifter wheel. Then push the lifter firmly on the glass/newspaper and roll it over the glass. If you hear any "crackling" noise or feel anything at all in your fingers, other than super smooth, the lifter needles are failing, or there is crap in them. It is an excellent,easy test for roller lifters. Good luck getting this fixed.

Thank you, I'll give it a try...

[taff2]

I've seen quite a few solid roller cams with the wear pattern on the lobes like yours,but it's usually on all or most of the lobes. I put it down to the very aggressive springs used and lack of oil splash ,mainly in conjunction with a lot of idling time. Do you have a crank scaper?

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by taff2

I've seen quite a few solid roller cams with the wear pattern on the lobes like yours,but it's usually on all or most of the lobes. I put it down to the very aggressive springs used and lack of oil splash ,mainly in conjunction with a lot of idling time. Do you have a crank scaper?

It only being one is why I lean towards feeling its a defect. Plus its the second time this has happened. To me , it seems so random, but what do I know.lol

No I don't have a crank scraper.

[charlie66]

I took the cam out. that was a lot of fun in the car.lol

Here are some pictures with a better camera.

It seems to me its from underneath. is it porosity ?

What do you guys think?

Thanks

[johnta1]

That is galling.

[Chris Uratchko]

Soft lobe.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by johnta1

That is galling.

Originally Posted by Chris Uratchko

Soft lobe.

I took it to my machinist and he said the same thing. I'm sending it back so i'll see what they are going to say...

Thanks guys

[charlie66]

Just thought I would share the out come of sending the cam back to the cam grinder. They fixed it and said that it was because of a misalignment issue with the lifter bores. They said the roller was ridding on its edge do to the tightness of the bar that connects the 2 lifters. So now I have to blue the cam and run the lifters on the cam to see if the lifters are tracking right. Here is a picture of the fixed lobe. It looks like new......

[PAUL K]

Thanks for the follow up.

[JSPONT]

Glad it is fixed. I saw your head today, I will call you tomorrow. I did enquire about it.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Thanks for the follow up.

No problem...

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by JSPONT

Glad it is fixed. I saw your head today, I will call you tomorrow. I did enquire about it.

Thanx Jeff....

[Mr. P-Body]

How high do you rev this engine?

We use 7/16 Smith Bros. and Comp "tapered" pushrods in Dirty Bird/Goateus Maximus. 9,200 RPM, zero issues 3 years. 1/2" is massive overkill and VERY difficult to get into the limited room. 3/8 are fine for up to 250 @ the seat, so you should be "close" there.

Setting the E-head up in a vertical mill, using a long "end mill", one can enlarge the pushrod tubes "side side" without going "back/forth", avoiding the runner. About a 75-80 degree angle does the trick, laying the hole back toward the stud.

Jim

[gtofreek]

One other thing to consider. Look at the intake lobe of the same cylinder to see if the opening side of the lobe is starting to do this also. We had an issue like this[exhaust lobe worn on the closing side, intake worn on opening side]. Turned out that these copper cam cores are only hardened on the surface, and only so deep[black cam cores are hardened all the way through]. These cams need to be ground within a certain lobe separation spread for their hardening. This becomes more of a problem with small duration lobes like you are using. The smaller the lobe, the more they have to grind off. If they spread the lobe sep out further than what the cam was designed for[say a 114° LS, when cam was designed for 112° max], they grind through the hardening, and the result is the exhaust lobe wears on the closing side, and the intake wears on the opening side.

Are you at least running a stud girdle? Shaft rockers are obviously the best, and if you go that route, be sure to upgrade to the steel bodied exhaust rocker, or rocker breakage may occur.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body

How high do you rev this engine?

We use 7/16 Smith Bros. and Comp "tapered" pushrods in Dirty Bird/Goateus Maximus. 9,200 RPM, zero issues 3 years. 1/2" is massive overkill and VERY difficult to get into the limited room. 3/8 are fine for up to 250 @ the seat, so you should be "close" there.

Setting the E-head up in a vertical mill, using a long "end mill", one can enlarge the pushrod tubes "side side" without going "back/forth", avoiding the runner. About a 75-80 degree angle does the trick, laying the hole back toward the stud.

Jim

Its revving between 6600 to 7400.. I'm @ 30 psi and plan to raise it to 34 if I can ever get past these problems im encountering ... Currently I have 310 on the seat. I think im going to take out one of the .030 shims because I think I may have a little over kill there...

Is dirty bird boosted. If so , how much boost are they using?

So, what im getting out of what you're saying is that i'll be better off with 7/16 then the 3/8?

Is it possible to do the job with out a mill? I only have a die grinder..

Thanks

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

One other thing to consider. Look at the intake lobe of the same cylinder to see if the opening side of the lobe is starting to do this also. We had an issue like this[exhaust lobe worn on the closing side, intake worn on opening side]. Turned out that these copper cam cores are only hardened on the surface, and only so deep[black cam cores are hardened all the way through]. These cams need to be ground within a certain lobe separation spread for their hardening. This becomes more of a problem with small duration lobes like you are using. The smaller the lobe, the more they have to grind off. If they spread the lobe sep out further than what the cam was designed for[say a 114° LS, when cam was designed for 112° max], they grind through the hardening, and the result is the exhaust lobe wears on the closing side, and the intake wears on the opening side.

Are you at least running a stud girdle? Shaft rockers are obviously the best, and if you go that route, be sure to upgrade to the steel bodied exhaust rocker, or rocker breakage may occur.

No I'm not using a stud girdle. I guess I better get one huh.. lol.. If I had the money I would invest a rocker shaft set up. Do they sell only one side, or would I have buy both?

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

One other thing to consider. Look at the intake lobe of the same cylinder to see if the opening side of the lobe is starting to do this also. We had an issue like this[exhaust lobe worn on the closing side, intake worn on opening side]. Turned out that these copper cam cores are only hardened on the surface, and only so deep[black cam cores are hardened all the way through]. These cams need to be ground within a certain lobe separation spread for their hardening. This becomes more of a problem with small duration lobes like you are using. The smaller the lobe, the more they have to grind off. If they spread the lobe sep out further than what the cam was designed for[say a 114° LS, when cam was designed for 112° max], they grind through the hardening, and the result is the exhaust lobe wears on the closing side, and the intake wears on the opening side.

Are you at least running a stud girdle? Shaft rockers are obviously the best, and if you go that route, be sure to upgrade to the steel bodied exhaust rocker, or rocker breakage may occur.

I was told that this cam was hardened after it was roughed and that it was .120 deep. Meaning that it was hardened .120 deep into the cam. Who knows really though....

[gtofreek]

They come as a complete set. Not halfsies.