[Old Goat 67]

Read the voltage WHILE CRANKING on the solenoid terminal.

Bet its not 12 Volts. If it isn't, high resistance connection somewhere.

[69Farburd]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Read the voltage WHILE CRANKING on the solenoid terminal.

Bet its not 12 Volts. If it isn't, high resistance connection somewhere.

I checked. It drops to 7 volts while cranking through the ignition switch. The line from the battery to the solenoid goes through safety switches for the seat, parking brake, and blade engagement. I tried bypassing the switch for the seat. I guess I can try bypassing the other two if I can find them. Any suggestions?

[Old Goat 67]

I'd want to know where it was dropping voltage.
Compare readings at different points in the B+ supply, starting at the battery post to see where it's dropping, therefore pointing to the before and after of the resistance contributing to the reduction of current flow in the circuit.

Did I explain that clearly?

[Deadhead]

I got rid of safety switches too, and no joy. I traced the whole mess through trying to find where I had a corroded wire or the like. Replaced main fuse etc. At some point in the system there is a rectifier that made it more confusing than an auto 12v system, and I gave up trying to figure it out. On a car, I would say that there is corrosion in the supply cables either + or - and try replacing them. The corrosion can occur within the insulation so you don't see it on the ends, and causes the voltage drop.

I feel your pain. I have lived with mine for a few years like this. Moving to a place with no lawn soon, and I will leave the mower for the next guy.

[Stuckinda60s]

Can you dismantle the solenoid? It sounds like corroded or burned solenoid contacts. If you can dismantle it, you should be able to build the contacts back up with braze or silver solder and be good to go. Of course, if they're available without buying the starter, you could go that way.

You might also be able to find the solenoid or contacts through a small engine repair shop.

I'd also install a push-button starter switch to bypass all the safety switches, with the exception of the blade engagement.

[69Farburd]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

Can you dismantle the solenoid? It sounds like corroded or burned solenoid contacts. If you can dismantle it, you should be able to build the contacts back up with braze or silver solder and be good to go. Of course, if they're available without buying the starter, you could go that way.

You might also be able to find the solenoid or contacts through a small engine repair shop.

I'd also install a push-button starter switch to bypass all the safety switches, with the exception of the blade engagement.

If the contacts in the solenoid are bad, wouldn't I have the same problem when I run a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid? It fires right up when I do that. Also if I run a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid with a push button switch wouldn't the safety switches still work when the ignition is in the run position?

[lust4speed]

Are you simply bypassing the switch and energizing the solenoid, or are you jumping to the far side of the solenoid to the large wire going to the starter?

There are many ways to wire in the safety switches, but on mine they are in series with the solenoid not getting voltage to close if any one of the safety switches remain open.

[salem1912]

Not related to the electric starter issue. On the performance issue, have you check the flywheel key way? My craftsman snowblower would hard fire up, it would eventually run but like crap. New key way and a half pull on the robe and she runs great. Tel tale was a big flame coming out the exhaust on start up and shut off.

[69Farburd]

Lust, I am just bypassing the switch and connecting to the small wire terminal on the solenoid. My safety switches are in series with the solenoid. It seems strange that I get 7 volts to the solenoid through the ignition switch. Deadhead may have touched on something with the rectifier. I'm not sure what the rectifier does.

Salem, I think (hope) I have figured out the performance issue. I was getting very weak spark out of one of the coils. I am waiting for the new one to arrive.

[69Farburd]

I should have been more specific. I get 12 volts at the wire that connects to the solenoid, but it drops to 7 volts when I try to start the engine. The starter gear tries to turn, but only moves about 1/16 of an inch at most. Maybe Stuck is onto something with the solenoid contacts being bad?

[Old Goat 67]

So, what does the battery voltage drop to when you try to start the engine?

[tdavidl]

I have the problem where when I turn the key the starter engages & won't stop even if I turn the key off. I've already replaced the key slot and removed, disassembled and cleaned the starter (was quite gunky which I figured was making it stick)...but it's still doing it and the starter module (or whatever it's called) is a real PITA to get to so I haven't replaced that yet....I figure there's not too much harm in having it engaged for a few extra seconds....

[69Farburd]

If it's not one thing, it's another. I ran a push button switch with wire from the battery to the solenoid. It starts right up now. However, now when I release the brake pedal it dies. Now I need to try to find the brake switch. The never ending saga continues.

[69Farburd]

The more I think about it, the more confused I get. Previously the brake pedal just needed to be pushed in when I started the tractor. Now it dies when I release the pedal with the key in the run position. Is it because I disconnected the wire that goes through all the safety switches to the solenoid when I installed the push button switch? Would it help to splice in the old wire to the solenoid with the bypass wire I installed? Should I connect the bypass wire to the hot terminal on the bottom of the solenoid from the battery and re-connect the wire that goes through all the safety switches to small connector on the solenoid?

[69Farburd]

I sure do wish I knew something about electricity. I disconnected the bypass switch I previously installed and re-connected the wire that goes through all the safety switches to the small terminal on the solenoid. If I help the engine turn over it starts and the safety switches work. I was able to release the brake and engage the blades. When I put the ignition switch in the start position the voltage to the small wire on the solenoid drops to 7 volts but the big wire from the battery to the bottom of the solenoid stays at 12 volts. I'm starting to think that I have a sticking solenoid (magnetic switch in this case) or a dragging starter. Any ideas?

[69Farburd]

Well I ended up running the wire from the battery through the push button ignition switch in parallel with the wire that goes through all the safety switches to the small connection on the solenoid. Now it starts fine, and keeps running with the brake off, mower engaged etc. The new coil solved my bad running problem. It runs like new again. I just hope my wiring shenanagins don't end up frying something. Thanks everyone for the help!

[Deadhead]

I wonder if we could just tear the whole thing down, put on a pull start and have '0' electrical on the whole machine. My generator with the same motor starts on the 1st or second pull every time. I bought it in 1999 and nearly immediately stopped using the electric start.