[TSMartin]

Does any of you that live in cold weather areas use engine oil pre-heaters? My Butler built 461 will put out over 80 psi oil pressure at cold idle. By "cold" I mean around 50 to 60 degrees. I've never started it at a temp any colder but I would assume it would be the same if not more. As the engine warms up the pressure will drop until it's about 40 psi at idle. This takes a good half an hour probably because a I have an 8 quart oil pan and it takes so long to warm the oil up. The oil is 20-50 as specified by Butler. Not only does it take a long time but I am also concerned about the wear on the distributor drive gear.

Thoughts?

TS

[Tom Vaught]

The Block WATER heaters actually work pretty well.

The oil pump picks up oil in the pan and once it goes thru the oil filter immediately sees a much warmer block/water system and starts taking on heat.

The oil pump can easily move the oil in the pan thru the engine several times very quickly with a 1000 rpm High Cam carb setting. Every trip it is picking up heat.

The pan oil heaters can get the oil too hot and actually degrade the oil if the heater stays on for hours at a time. The oil starts to break down in the 255 degree range. The localized temperature could be over that temp even though the average oil temp in the pan is lower. Water does not have that issue. Just my thoughts.

Tom Vaught

I suppose you could have a oil temp sensor to regulate the heater but then that would be one more thing that could be damaged with the roads and road trash out there.

[ta man]

Maybe the real problem is the oil itself...a thinner oil would be wise...What reason was given to run the heavier weight oil?

[TSMartin]

Originally Posted by ta man

Maybe the real problem is the oil itself...a thinner oil would be wise...What reason was given to run the heavier weight oil?

I'm quoting from the paperwork Butler sent with the engine:

"ALL engines must use Comp Cams #159 (or equivalent) break-in lube during break-in and at the first oil exchange. It is recommended to be used at subsequent oil changes also. Failure to do so will void any manufacturers cam warranty. We recommend using Valvoline 20/50 Racing oil with the additive, or Joe Gibbs "Hot Rod" 15/50 Oil (no additive required with Joe Gibbs Oil)."

I'm sure it is due to the heavier weight oil that's why I'm asking about pre-warming it in cold weather. In warmer weather it's fine. I'm kind of a stickler for following what they say. They've been at this for a long time and if they say use the 20/50 Valvoline or the Joe Gibbs 15/50 .... who am I to argue.

TS

[chrisp]

Lower rad. hose heater in my 461 , engine & rad. gets to 120 overnight start up is excellent . Cord unplugs from the unit as well .

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by TSMartin

I'm quoting from the paperwork Butler sent with the engine:

"ALL engines must use Comp Cams #159 (or equivalent) break-in lube during break-in and at the first oil exchange. It is recommended to be used at subsequent oil changes also. Failure to do so will void any manufacturers cam warranty. We recommend using Valvoline 20/50 Racing oil with the additive, or Joe Gibbs "Hot Rod" 15/50 Oil (no additive required with Joe Gibbs Oil)."

I'm sure it is due to the heavier weight oil that's why I'm asking about pre-warming it in cold weather. In warmer weather it's fine. I'm kind of a stickler for following what they say. They've been at this for a long time and if they say use the 20/50 Valvoline or the Joe Gibbs 15/50 .... who am I to argue.

TS

I got the same type of 20w-50 valvoline race oil recommendations from Scoggin Dickey when I bought a new GM crate 502 a few years back. However I prefer to use a better quality 20w-50 Amsoil which has a very low cold pour temp rating. Unlike other 20w-50's, Amsoil's has a cold pour temp that mimic's alot of the 10w-30's on the market.
Run it in a few cars here, and cold starts (garage never dips below 40 here) the oil pressure comes up quickly. With pour temps as good or better than most 10w-30's and 10w-40's, I don't sweat the cold starts at all. Picking a good oil that meets the criteria is most critical. Just for your example you can see in the link I provided the cold pour temp for valvoline 20w-50 racing is -10 while the Amsoil is -47. Big difference. Then if it makes you sleep better I'd look at the block water heaters like Tom mentioned.

You can compare pour temps here...
http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amso...ble/chart.html

[TSMartin]

Thanks for the input folks.

TS

[The Champ]

Originally Posted by TSMartin

"We recommend using Valvoline 20/50 Racing oil with the additive, or Joe Gibbs "Hot Rod" 15/50 Oil (no additive required with Joe Gibbs Oil)."

Well, if I "stickler" and wanted to run one of the "recommended" oils, I'd switch immediately to the 15W50 Joe Gibbs Oil.

I run 15W50 Mobil 1 as that is their oil that like JGO does not require an additive as it has sufficient ZDDP already in it. I believe that JGO is very good oil, but is not readily available like Mobil 1.

[Formulajones]

Yep, the only issue with the Valvoline racing oil is that it doesn't have a detergent package, so it's cleaning abilities are "sub par" to put it nicely. It's not an oil you want to extend oil change intervals with.