[Darth Menace]

I guess I spoke too soon about the suspension not being original. The passenger side upper ball joint was riveted in there. Pretty lame. The rivets don't even have the hole in the centre that is handy to drill them out. Who wouldn't replace such a cheap piece in 45 years

[Darth Menace]

How is this for 45 year old bushings? metal on metal. I guess one of the many reasons this thing handled and shook like crap. Anyway, everything is out (and ready to get installed) I am finally on the last half of this long ass project.

[rexs73gto]

Darth if you want to stiffen up your frame some you can on the frame where ever there is any open spots on the frme just cut some metal the same size as the frame metal & weld it in where the frame is open & that will stiffen it up some also. Just don't forget to leave some spots so the water can drain out or the frame will go bye bye real fast.

[PontGuy]

How is this for 45 year old bushings?

Looks like it was well past time to replace those bushings and it still had an original upper ball joint too. You should feel a big difference with all the new parts.

[webfoot]

That looks about right! Not sure if you have the rivets out yet but I cut an "X" in it with my cutoff wheel, then picked up a craftsman air hammer tool set that has a chisel and a rivet punch. Chisel off the 4 chunks of rivet head then drive the rivet through with the rivet tool.

Glad to hear you are still making progress. I have not done a thing to either of mine for a few months now.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

Darth if you want to stiffen up your frame some you can on the frame where ever there is any open spots on the frme just cut some metal the same size as the frame metal & weld it in where the frame is open & that will stiffen it up some also. Just don't forget to leave some spots so the water can drain out or the frame will go bye bye real fast.

Ya, I am sure once the front end is done than it will make a huge difference. The rear doesn't have a sway bar, I'm not sure if this is the norm for this car or not. Either way once I finish this catastrophe up front I will re-assess. Again, I'm not expecting this 45 year old best to handle like a Porsche, but as long as it's respectable I will be good. I don't want any frame or body cracking to happen because of my slacking.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by PontGuy

Looks like it was well past time to replace those bushings and it still had an original upper ball joint too. You should feel a big difference with all the new parts.

Likely original bushings, some original ball joints and I am going to assume original springs. You have to wonder what is up with the 45 years of previous owners. Don't get me wrong, I have 4 vehicles and it can get expensive with parts but I try my best to remain diligent on maintenance...my Excel spreadsheet will prove this. Sometimes I just have to scratch my head about some people.

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by Darth Menace

Ya, I am sure once the front end is done than it will make a huge difference. The rear doesn't have a sway bar, I'm not sure if this is the norm for this car or not.

It was an option, not sure if it was available in 68. F40 or F41 would be the code for HD suspension. You would have to box your lower control arms and drill holes to mount it. OR do what I did and get a set of BMR or equivalent tubular lowers with the holes already drilled in it. Sway bar is still available from GM as far as I know, 7/8" will work wonders.

[PontGuy]

Likely original bushings, some original ball joints and I am going to assume original springs. You have to wonder what is up with the 45 years of previous owners.

Not unusual at all- as you have found out replacing all this stuff on the front suspension is not a minor task so unless someone has done a real "restore" it is most often just patched up.

Quite sure that a rear sway bar did not exist as an option until 70's. But its a relatively easy upgrade when you get to replacing the bushings back there. In addition to tubular parts the factory-style aftermarket boxed control arms are also readily available. And there are several options for sway bars to fit.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by PontGuy

Not unusual at all- as you have found out replacing all this stuff on the front suspension is not a minor task so unless someone has done a real "restore" it is most often just patched up.

That is pretty shameful especially considering factory quality replacement parts for this car are dirt cheap in the grand scheme of things.

The lower control arm bump stops need to be replaced. Unfortunately I can't find them local so I have to order them online. I can still go ahead and replace them with the control arm installed when they arrive. The upper control arm bump stops look perfect so I don't want to wait for new ones to arrive before installing the upper control arms so I don't think I will be replacing them. Hope this isn't a big deal.

On a related note is it easiest to press the steering knuckle onto the upper control arm before installing or should it be pressed onto the lower control arm first? Which is easiest or does it really matter in the long run?

[Darth Menace]

believe it or not I am on the home stretch. Doing the bearings looks kind of daunting. Last thing I want is to do all this work and mess up at the bearings.

[PontGuy]

If you are talking about wheel bearings just make sure they are completely loaded with grease and don't over-tighten them. The procedure should be in one of the manuals you are looking at. I think the biggest thing that novices sometimes do wrong is put a wrench on the nut and get them too tight. Never had a wheel bearing go bad, even back in the old days, so I don't think it has to be perfect.

[Darth Menace]

Well I am done!(Famous last words). It looks like it sits a bit high, but likely just because it was sagging to much before. Thanks for the help guys! This was my longest project ever for sure