[Alvin]

[Alvin]

[Alvin]

Maybe closer to 1/8 to 1/4"

[Alvin]

[Alvin]

[Alvin]

Hope this was what you were looking for and helps you Bob.

[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks Alvin, that's what I wanted, but not necessarily the answer I hoped for. You've given me something to think about. Probably can make it with a thicker carb to air cleaner gasket and a little massaging.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Thanks Alvin, that's what I wanted, but not necessarily the answer I hoped for. You've given me something to think about. Probably can make it with a thicker carb to air cleaner gasket and a little massaging.

My pleasure Bob.
You could use those billet spacers under the factory valve covers along with that air cleaner gasket

Here's some from Spotts

[Alvin]

Here's same from Ames

[Alvin]

Something tells me that modding the elbow (trimming it to make it shorter from where it mounts to air-cleaner on a "spare plastic piece") would be the easier solution?

[Bentwheelbob]

I've ordered the 3/8" spacer already since I think it will likely be need to clear the rocker locks. That will, however, raise the valve covers which is why I am worried about clearance. Hopefully it won't be needed, but if it is I hope that a thicker carb to pan gasket will do the trick.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I've ordered the 3/8" spacer already since I think it will likely be need to clear the rocker locks. That will, however, raise the valve covers which is why I am worried about clearance. Hopefully it won't be needed, but if it is I hope that a thicker carb to pan gasket will do the trick.

Of coarse as soon as I typed my prior post on this thread thought came to mind that for every elevation change made to valve covers also requires tweak to carb spacing which requires double-checking shaker-to-hood opening clearance...etc. etc.

[Bentwheelbob]

Things have slowed down a little here due some incoming rounds at my real job, and a few other things, however, there has been a little progress. I just received the shifter back from Dennis Maroudas who owns DME LLC and specializes in rebuilding shifters and transmissions. It cost about ~$270.00 to have the shifter mechanism rebuilt, and to have the mechanism and shift rods recoated. It looks great. Also, the 3/8" billet spacers have arrived and are installed. To limit the potential for clearance issues with the preheater elbow and AC brackets we decided not to use a gasket under the spacer. Instead a bead of black rtv was applied and the spacer was clamped down with some homemade studs to compress it and hold it in place while the rtv sets up. Here's a few pictures...

[Held for Ransom]

So what was wrong with the shifter other than it was grimey and needed to be disassembled, cleaned and relubed? And you're OK with him phosphate plating the trunions?

[Bentwheelbob]

Hey Mike. Happy Easter.

You pretty much covered it. 37 years of grease grime and a severely dysfunctional rear main seal. Shifter seemed to work fine, but it needed disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and any worn parts replaced. I was far enough out of my comfort zone on this, and short enough on time, that it made sense for me to send it out to have it done. Would have preferred the trunions not be phosphated, but I have so far decided that I don't care enought to pull the assemblies apart and clean them up.

[Alvin]

For the learning impaired (such as myself) http://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/1...ST_4_Speed.PDF

[Bentwheelbob]

Alvin - That's a nice schematic. Don't suppose they also have the adjustment procedure for the ST10 shifter and linkages to do they. I've been assuming this is in the service manual, but haven't had a chance to look yet.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Alvin - That's a nice schematic. Don't suppose they also have the adjustment procedure for the ST10 shifter and linkages to do they. I've been assuming this is in the service manual, but haven't had a chance to look yet.

How about a "How To Video" instead? Check it out ==> http://youtu.be/yaQwPQTenMg

And there's always instructions from the mfg http://www.hurst-shifters.com/pdf/3738609.pdf

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Alvin

For the learning impaired (such as myself)

Sorry about that. Looks like I spelled it wrong too.

Bob, stick a 1/4" drill bit in the hole at the bottom center of the shifter housing. Then turn each rod (loosening the trunnion nuts first), in or out, until they fit on the lever slots (making sure they're centered in neutral). Actually, I guess it's in the diagram. And the rods probably don't need turning, just the nuts.

[berrygoat]

I doubt you will be able to use the passenger side AC bracket that bolts to the manifold with those VC spacers. The triangular one. Without it you will probably get a serious belt squeal. Hopefully I'm wrong.