[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Hope I am wrong on the block.

[PontGuy]

Just use a plastic T on the tubing going to the distributor for the vacuum gauge hookup. Since you are using manifold vacuum that should give you exactly what you need to know. As for ported vs non-ported, I've tried it both ways on various engines over the years and always end up using manifold vacuum. Whatever works..

Pretty impressive that you don't have a pinging problem with that cam and C/R. Must have been built right. I wouldn't try to run too much vacuum advance though. I have a 14 deg can in the Lemans and 10 deg in the T/A. All engines are different but I know 20+ deg vacuum advance would be asking for trouble in my engines and they are milder than yours.

Suggest that you concentrate on setting the advance to optimize performance and drive-ability, and then take a look at cooling capacity if it still wants to run a bit hot. Trying to force it to run significantly cooler by adjusting advance is probably not a realistic goal.

Not sure if it is any easier, but another sure way of checking to confirm an early block is the bolt holes for the engine mounts. The early blocks don't have the additional holes needed for the various 70's style mounts.

[HWYSTR455]

Do you have build info, like how far in the hole the pistons are, chamber volume, piston relief volume, bore, stroke, rod length, etc? How was static CR calculated?

And what kind of balancer again? Have you verified the timing mark with TDC?

.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

This combo sure is sounding lets say, "more than less... than ideal."

[AdamIsAdam]

Some of the Warren info was incorrectly input. Not sure why, but it was.

HWY, and anyone who wants, PM me your email address and I'll just email the pdf to you. Not sure why some can't see the drop box docs.

[AdamIsAdam]

I won't shoot the messenger at all. I do appreciate knowledgeable feedback.

The details are in that document, like 17cc dish pistons.

I'm not home to look at the engine. Which number do you want to see? Date code I think is B166.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

The big '75' by the dizzy in your picture is a dead giveaway from what I know.

Casting # location
http://s299.photobucket.com/user/WDC...0text.jpg.html

[AdamIsAdam]

I think I have a pic of that casting number. Is this it?



Here's the pic after new oil PSI gauge installed. I put the nylon line inside some vacuum hose for some added protection.

[grivera]

It's blurry but it appears to be 500557? Also, this pic from your album looks like it may have an additional motor-mount bolt hole on passenger side:
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...2.jpg~original

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Yep.
Now you need to verify what is inside.


May be able to id stock or aftermarket crank by rear hub? I personally don't know if there is a definitive difference.
Stroke should tell the tale. You should be able to measure stroke thru spark. plug hole.

I hope someone didn't swap the short block out on you when RMS was replaced.

The two digit alpha codes were reused a bit.

[AdamIsAdam]

Between the two pics, the casting number looks like 600557. What does that tell us?

[AdamIsAdam]

Bummer. Looks like this is not the block i thought was. What does this mean? The guy that built it said he followed a build from Jim Hands book.

[78w72]

the 6 is definitely a 5. its a 1975 500557 block. that is considered the weaker block compared to the 481988 blocks. but dont worry too much, if you aren't drag racing the car a lot or really pushing the rpms, it should be fine for normal use. 500+ hp & abuse its not an ideal block, but i wouldnt worry about it blowing up from some spirited driving or light drag use.

i would look into the internals if you can, hopefully the prev owner didnt do a switch-eroo or lie about the build.

[AdamIsAdam]

Well, seeing as the guy I bought the car from is a "friend" of mine that I've known for a long time, I'm inclined to think he got the block info wrong, but that he didn't out and out lie about the build and get receipts to back up the lie.

As long as the motor can withstand me winding out 1st and second gears often, but not over 5,400 RPM, and maybe once a year going to the track, I'm happy.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Well, seeing as the guy I bought the car from is a "friend" of mine that I've known for a long time, I'm inclined to think he got the block info wrong, but that he didn't out and out lie about the build and get receipts to back up the lie.

As long as the motor can withstand me winding out 1st and second gears often, but not over 5,400 RPM, and maybe once a year going to the track, I'm happy.

didnt mean to imply he intentionally lied. especially if he is considered a friend, he probably got the info wrong... or may have been provided wrong info.

you should be fine under 5500 if its not abused too bad. on the street the tires will break free before too much stress is applied on the driveline & engine. its at the track with goood traction & hard launches that the stresses can break things.

[AdamIsAdam]

I've known him a long time and I know he can stretch the truth! That's why there were quotes around the word friend. LOL. That being said, my other buddy helped build most of the car which is why I bought it. But yes, he likely knew the block and implied it was a 1970. He probably got it cheap. That, he's the master in. But I do believe the butler inners are there.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I'd have to know whats in it, that's my nature.

[grivera]

based on the performance you described I'd bet the internals are what you think they are, fwiw

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by grivera

based on the performance you described I'd bet the internals are what you think they are, fwiw

That's sort of what I'm thinking. The bottom line is that it runs strong (when tuned right), certainly strong enough for around-town spirited driving and smokey burnouts for the kids (yes officer, it was for the kids). I want to get down the 1320 in the 12s, even 12.99, and I'd be VERY happy. I'd also like to see 400hp / 500ft lbs on the dyno at the rear wheels too.

But most importantly, is to run reliably and smoothly -- and to last a long time without exploding

[ta man]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

That's sort of what I'm thinking. The bottom line is that it runs strong (when tuned right), certainly strong enough for around-town spirited driving and smokey burnouts for the kids (yes officer, it was for the kids). I want to get down the 1320 in the 12s, even 12.99, and I'd be VERY happy. I'd also like to see 400hp / 500ft lbs on the dyno at the rear wheels too.

But most importantly, is to run reliably and smoothly -- and to last a long time without exploding

400 hp at the rear wheels will easily put you in the 12's..I wouldn't fret over the 557 block much..unless you are launching the car with full traction all the time it will last.