[zephyrracer]

What kind of glue should I use for the ram air seal, and should the seal on the hood be glued to the pan only or hood and pan, and does anyone have a picture of the seal on the pan.

Thanks in advance Gregg

[north]

I've always used 3M weatherstrip adhesive with good results. Only glue the seal to the pan so you can remove it from the hood when required. There was also a small seal on the top of the flapper assembly.

I've found that the main pan seal should be trimmed (to make it less tall) so that the flapper will operate freely. I believe that the repro foam is too dense and creates more pressure than intended on the flapper mechanism.

[1969GTO]

I have used a spray can adhesive, spray on foam and pan

[zephyrracer]

Thanks for the reply I have some 3m that I used on my boat with good results, I should have posted mine is a 68 gto and looks like I may need to trim the hood braces back some, have never seen one apart for reference but will get it figured out.

Gregg

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by zephyrracer

Thanks for the reply I have some 3m that I used on my boat with good results, I should have posted mine is a 68 gto and looks like I may need to trim the hood braces back some, have never seen one apart for reference but will get it figured out.

Gregg

Let me know if you need photos of the hood without the pan attached. I have my 68 RAII apart right now so I can get those for you if needed.

[zephyrracer]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

Let me know if you need photos of the hood without the pan attached. I have my 68 RAII apart right now so I can get those for you if needed.

Thanks a pic would be real helpful, the only pics I have seen are with the pan on knowing where to cut and how the foam seals will get me going.

Thanks again Gregg

[zephyrracer]

Could I trouble you for another pic, where to place the foam seal on the hood pan, because of the holes that are there for the scoops has me puzzled.

Gregg

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by zephyrracer

Could I trouble you for another pic, where to place the foam seal on the hood pan, because of the holes that are there for the scoops has me puzzled.

Gregg

I am not certain where the foam goes either. In the attached photos, you can see where it was rubbing against the hood towards the cowl area but that is the easy part to figure out. The tricky part is how it fits around the scoops. My guess is the hood foam tucks under the main X brace and around the scoops. However, it doesn't look like there is enough room for the foam to go around the outer hood scoop stud so it kinda looks like the center and inner stud live INSIDE the perimeter of the hood foam and the outer stud lives OUTSIDE of that shape. It kinda looks that way to me when I look at the marks in my hood.

I have no idea if my hood is original. It looks kinda butchered up like someone cut the braces with tin snips. I have no clue if the cutting happened at the dealership, original owner or if this hood was pulled from another car and became an unwilling participant in RAII life. Luckily, whoever cut the hood didn't quite trim far enough so I'll get an opportunity to clean up the snip marks.

I have 5 pictures attached.
The first pic shows the trimmed hood. Whoever did this didn't do it correctly, they had the pan too far toward the rear (cowl area). Even so, the area that is trimmed away on the left of the photo (right side of car) is trimmed correctly. The area on the right side of the photo (left side of car) was not trimmed far enough. The area across the top is cut pretty well, just barely fits. Notice a long flange tab across the bottom of the photo.....the two bent clips on the ram air hood baffle tuck under that flange tab. I imagine those tabs would be very helpful when removing and installing the baffle while the hood it open and you are working over the engine.

The second photo is the underside of the hood baffle. The stamped raised portion is what contacts the OE hood braces so that can be used as a guide when marking for trimming.

The third photo is a close up on the right side hood scoop (left side in the photo). The area trimmed away is good, the mounting hole is not.....it should be more forward by about 3/4" or so. I will have to weld up that hole and grind smooth to correct the mistake.

The 4th photo is a close up on the left side hood scoop (right side of photo). The area that is hatched in with Sharpie needs to be cut away still. When that happens, the baffle will lay flat and can be positioned correctly. The rest of the trim lines appear to be okay.

The 5th photo shows how the hood baffle is registered across the back of the hood. I have no idea why the previous owner had the pan moved back so far to the rear.

[PurelyGTO68]

Here are some final photos....

The first photo in this post shows how the tabs in the baffle grab the flange tab on the hood. When installing the hood baffle, the tabs go first and then you tip the baffle up towards the hood and secure with screws. (if installing with hood on the car...)

The 2nd photo shows the baffle in the correct position. It's pretty easy to figure out because the three scoop holes line up perfectly with the studs in the scoops. Notice how someone must have run over my hood pan when it was tossed in the corner at the restoration shop. I am lucky that I was able to fine and recover most all of my parts for this car.

The 3rd photo shows how the baffle would look when installed. All 3 scoop studs are accessible.

The last photo shows the other (driver's side). it sits high in the pic because I haven't trimmed away the hatched area of that brace. Once I do, then it will sit flat and looks better.

This hood that I have is a little beat up but I am going to try and save it. I'd rather take my chances to repair this hood vs fighting with an aftermarket part.

I hope this helps.

[zephyrracer]

Sent you a pm I did make a 3 d cut out made from card board and it helped me understand it better, I will add more tomorrow when I'm out in the shop, I also spoke with someone that says you don't need to cut the hood at all but you will need to trim the seal in the front corners but if you want it correct the hood needs to be cut, thanks again will compare what you sent me and report back. Gregg

[zephyrracer]

Good morning, I think I have it figured out it was ruff as I was doing this with the hood on the car, first I made a cardboard template of the hood pan with all the cutouts and then taped it on the hood to see how it fit the carb pan, then I put the foam seal on the hood pan and used scotch blue to hold it in place, for orientation I placed the seal between the the scoop holes and the rest lined up nicely, next I put the cardboard template on the the seal that is now taped on the hood pan and traced out the seal on the template and cut it out, next tape the template to the hood not using the seal template then you can put the seal template in place for cutting reference. Looks like you have the correct placement of your hood pan there is a small hole in the hood and the hood pan on the passenger side it's mid way down the side and it will give you perfect placement and lines up with the front pan bolt hole, then drill out the other 4 holes for pan bolts, it looks like all you need to cut out for the seal is the corners in front not necessary but to be correct then cut the hood braces back so the full hood section is open. Thanks for all your help I did this with the hood on, it looked kitty wampus with the hood on the templates helped out perfectly if you would like I could mail anyone a copy in paper of my template.

Thanks all Gregg Blakemore