[jww]

Just poured a 4' floor in my garage addition and sealed it same day with some commercial grade, solvent based sealer that my brother got off a job several years ago. Only had enough of the good stuff to do about 2/3 of the floor and had my wife pick up some at a local hardware store. It was Quikcrete brand and is water based acrylic.

Hugh difference in the appearance of the two. The commercial stuff was thicker going on but flowed out and shines like glass....Quikcrete was thin and looks nowhere nearly as nice. I'm told you cannot get solvent based sealer in Ohio, I assume due to govt. regs, so my question; what should I look for and where to get it. From appearance I'm leaning toward more solvent based sealer. I like the "wet look" stuff.
Lastly, I assume I can recoat over the water based stuff with solvent based sealer???.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated........Jerry

[GTOLiam]

Most common sealers are either acrylic or Silane/Siloxane based. Both can be solvent or water based but Acrylic sealers can come in satin or the "wet" look. "Wet" look sealers are typically used for decorative concrete or on exposed aggregate finishes. But hey, if you want that look in garage that is fine too. I used a sodium silicate based densifier on my garage floor instead for a few reasons: penetrates surface, reacts with calcium hydroxide to bind silicates to surface, it's cheap and easy to apply, reduces porosity significantly, only wears away if the concrete does, maintenance free... ect.

Acrylics lay on the surface while Silane/Siloxane penetrate concrete... explains why Acrylics wear off the surface faster and need to be reapplied more often. There are also Epoxy/Urethene topical based sealers but these even more $$$ blah blah.

All sealers or brands will also vary in the solids amounts suspended in the liquid, UV protection additive, ect. Typically anything from Quikcrete, Menards, Home Depot, and so on are low quality materials I wouldn't recommend. Usually low in solids/quality and UV protection so they turn yellow over time/peel/don't cover well. Oh yeah, you get what you pay for.

Buy from a concrete contractor supply company or concrete producer in your area. Get the solvent based unless you are worried about the smell when applying. You happen to live in a state that has the two largest suppliers of quality sealers.. BASF and Euclid. Either of those two companies have excellent sealers with the "wet" look.
Example: Euclid's Super Diamond Clear - 30+% solids - "wet" look - around $160-$200 for a 5 gallon pail. I personally would use the solvent based and "cut" it yourself slightly with Xylene (same solvent in the sealer) to make it easier to spray or roll on. Better two coats than 1 heavy one imo.

Now you have to find out what you put on and if it will be compatible with the new sealer lol. Test an area just to be safe before doing it all.

Example of supply company in your area
http://www.janell.com/msds_sheets_item.php

[Deadhead]

Have used Muralo with good result. Oil sitting on it does not appear to have an effect.

[Old Blue 66]

I dont want to highjack this thread, but do those glossy sealer work for outdoor applications?

[GTOLiam]

Originally Posted by Old Blue 66

I dont want to highjack this thread, but do those glossy sealer work for outdoor applications?

Yes, they are used extensively on exposed aggregate and colored/stamped finishes.

[Old Blue 66]

We had something similar to the second pic put in a couple of years ago. Last month I saw a sidewalk that had a similar pattern to ours that looks fantastic with the high gloss finish. That's why I posted my question.

We have a concrete supply house a mile from us. Looks like I need to stop there today. Thanks !!!!!!

[rohrt]

I looked into this many years ago and I recall the Silane was the stuff to get, but not sold at the big box stores. I was only concerned about Scaling due to freezing conditions.

[Jim Zeek]

why did you seal it the same day? concrete should cure for 28 days before sealing/coating

[jww]

The directions on the 5 gal can said it could be sealed as soon as the trowell machine comes off. Let me clarify the stuff I put on was a sealer/curing compound My understanding is that it's job is to help hold moisture in the concrete, retard drying and thus help prevent cracking.

Certainly others know more about this topic than I, but I've sealed my own concrete in the past (same day/next day) and always at the suggestions of the finishers.


Thanks to all of you who added your knowledge and suggestions. I'm gonna get some of the good stuff (AKA expensive) and coat this again when the carpenters get finished with their framing and siding.

JWW

[GTOLiam]

Originally Posted by rohrt

I looked into this many years ago and I recall the Silane was the stuff to get, but not sold at the big box stores. I was only concerned about Scaling due to freezing conditions.

It's the best but won't give you a "wet" look. That's why Silane and Siloxanes are specified on important projects like parking ramps.....

[GTOLiam]

Originally Posted by Jim Zeek

why did you seal it the same day? concrete should cure for 28 days before sealing/coating

This is true for Silane/Siloxanes (PENETRATING) but not for Acrylics. They can be applied as soon as finishing is done on the surface of concrete.
BECAUSE THE ACRYLIC LAYS ON THE SURFACE - LIKE PAINT
All the manufactures sell Acrylics as a cure and seal product but they only marginally help in curing (depending on coverage when applied). Better to use some kind of wet cure method (Burlene), poly, or an actual curing compound.

[Old Blue 66]

Originally Posted by GTOLiam

This is true for Silane/Siloxanes (PENETRATING) but not for Acrylics. They can be applied as soon as finishing is done on the surface of concrete.
BECAUSE THE ACRYLIC LAYS ON THE SURFACE - LIKE PAINT
All the manufactures sell Acrylics as a cure and seal product but they only marginally help in curing (depending on coverage when applied). Better to use some kind of wet cure method (Burlene), poly, or an actual curing compound.

Not sure what our concrete guy used but he put it on the next day. Made al lthe difference making the color pop

[Deadhead]

Per label, I put the Muralo on next day. Have used on footings same day. It has been a great surface for 10 Yrs. It should actually enhance the cure by doing it early as you do not want crete to dry too quickly. Note that many DOT projects cover with plastic for 7 days.

[GTOLiam]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

Per label, I put the Muralo on next day. Have used on footings same day. It has been a great surface for 10 Yrs. It should actually enhance the cure by doing it early as you do not want crete to dry too quickly. Note that many DOT projects cover with plastic for 7 days.

Best cure method is wet and these blankets work great
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VO738DK8Qo

Poly is ok but leaves discoloration on the surface if you don't get it perfectly flat - any pockets can create a mini-greenhouse effect and you will get a differential cure in those areas