[Deadhead]

I have repaired them, but never put one in. Don't generally like them, but have a basement situation where I think it is the best option. How much of a PITA are they to install? Do you run the sheetrock on the walls prior to installing? If you have a soffit or boxed area at perimeter is it better to build a sheetrock box or make it out of the drop ceiling panels? Thanks for any advice.

[The Boss]

Yes hang the sheetrock first then put up the track.
Sheetrock the soffit or boxed area it will look nicer and will be cleaner than doing with tile.
I have only done a couple small areas - if you are a decent carpenter you can do it, but it's better to sub it out.

[craigs69]

X2 on sheetrock for the soffits and boxed areas.


I'm not a professional carpenter, just a very picky do-it-yourselfer, but I have found it easiest to set up a laser on a tripod in the center of the room and sweep all 4 walls to mark the mounting position of the wall tracks. This will eliminate any errors from an uneven floor. There is nothing worse than hanging your wall track by measuring from the floor, only to find that you are a half inch low when you get back to the first wall. This is especially true in basements. It is also helpful to start at the center of the room and work outward. I put the center tiles in immediately so I can square up the tracks to the walls. If you have any out of square walls, you need to average it out with the first tracks you hang. If you don't, it can be really obvious if you end up with narrow tiles around the edges.

[george kujanski]

All of the above. I used a laser also.

George

[68BeaumontSD]

Listed at the bottom are a few tools that will make installation a lot easier. Drywall the walls and soffits first. The ceilings are easier to keep level if you have a ceiling laser but one is not necessary. Pop BLUE chalk lines for the TOP of the wall angle. Blue chalk will wipe off if you get in on the wall, red won't. Install the wall angle before doing anything else. The next step is to find the center of your room both ways. Depending on the size of the tile, put pencil marks every two or four feet. When you get to the wall measure how much you have left to the wall to determine what size border you will have. Pull a string or jetline from one wall to the opposite wall with the string being the same distance off the side wall at each end. Do this for the other two walls too. This string will be the center of your ceiling mains. Use the clamps shown below to hold the line in place. Next step is to install mains. Run the mains the opposite direction of your joist. Once you determine what direction your mains will run, measure from the string to the wall to determine where the main needs to be cut. Once you get the measurement, measure from one of the notches in the main where the tees snap in and cut the main whatever measurement you need. Do this to two mains. You will need your grid hanging wires installed to continue. These wires should be no more than four feet apart. Install the first main then measure four feet along the wall to where you will install the second main. Be sure the notches for the tees are centered on the string. You will need to be sure the first main is centered on the string at least for the first several feet. Once you have the two mains installed put a couple four foot tees in connecting the mains with the first tee being centered on the other string line. These tees should be two foot apart. Now you can check to see if the ceiling is square. Measure the rectangle you just created diagonally in both directions to see if it is square. If I remember correctly, the measurement should be about 52 1/4 inches. If you have the same measurement both directions pop rivet the first two mains to the wall angle. You will need to cut the tees to fit to the wall that is parallel to the mains and clamp or pop rivet them in place. After you do this you can continue installing mains and tees. Pop rivet one end of each main as you install them. Do not pop rivet the other end. This will allow for expansion and contraction. If you can send me the measurements of the room and your email address I can make a drawing showing how to lay the ceiling out in the room.
James

BTW, I've been doing drywall and ceilings for 30 or so years.


Clamps like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30x-2-inch-M...item19ee4afe70
Wire cutters
Pop rivet gun and pop rivets
Jetline or some other small string or thread. Wherever you but the grid from will have this.
Tape measure
Snips to cut the grid

[gary bennett]

Originally Posted by The Boss

Yes hang the sheetrock first then put up the track.
Sheetrock the soffit or boxed area it will look nicer and will be cleaner than doing with tile.
I have only done a couple small areas - if you are a decent carpenter you can do it, but it's better to sub it out.

beautiful work

[The Boss]

Thanks Gary, I built the house & just re-did it, but I didn't put up the ceiling.

I did however build the soffit & pedestals, install the columns, build the coat rack, the bar & the wine cellar. Picture of the wine cellar below.

Back to the ceiling - we like to do the 2x2 grid with an inset tile that sets just below the grid - this gives it a more finished look without breaking the bank. I think the tile we use the most is Dune? It's inexpensive when compared to most of the others and looks good when trimmed.

[Deadhead]

Thanks so much guys! That is better advice than I could have hoped for. I am a damn fine carpenter, so that part should be good. The area I have to do is crazy complicated with duct work and other mechanicals.

On the outside corner of an 'L' shaped room going to try to do a bar area with an 8' ceiling tray (regular rock on the ceiling) and the rest of 'L' at 7' with drop treatment. I threw a diagonal wall on the inside corner of the 'L' to make the space look bigger. That was before I thought of the drop ceiling

Laser is a great idea. Even if you just get a mark on the walls, you can carry it up to whatever height. Build the soffits to give ceiling correct size for tile dimensions. Going to take longer to do ceiling than rest of entire project. At least I apparently own all the tools to do it.

Will post a Pic and some dimensions in a day or so when I go back to the job. Then will PM Beaumont my Addy. Main thing is I can hang the rock to get it all out of the way.

Not going to be as elegant as Boss' project. For those of you who have never cut crown for a space like he has there, well Respect for that. What a PITA on those inside 22.5-27* corners. I did a kitchen where 2 of us with 50 yrs experience between us spent the better part of a day shaping cherry crown pcs for 2 corners. At least yours was paint and not natural wood! Going with a mine theme on this project. Will toss in some rough post and beam details and going to make the crawl access to rest of house look like shaft entry next to the bar. Small theatre area in leg in front of bar (8W X 12L). Mini work bench/desk area like the foreman's desk for minor household projects in leg where stairway comes in. Main mechanical room is in the inside portion of the 'L'

[The Boss]

Ha - you give me too much credit. That crown was simply mitred and pushed up until the miters matched. The real trick in the house were the coffered ceilings in the dining room & the library - those were all coped!

Your project sound very similar to the basement I showed. All of the mechanicals are tucked into the room that is inside the L and on the front side of the stairs. Set up your laser first and see how high you can hang it in the main area - you may find that 7's makes it feel very small - even pulling a couple of inches could make a big difference.

[David Jones]

I've hung a LOT of drop ceiling. Just like laying floor tile, spend a little while measuring before you commit to anything. Make sure how the tiles will finish out on EVERY surface so you don't end up with a sliver somewhere. Even is good. Use more hanging wire than you think you'll need. The blue chalk line at the TOP of the wall angle (as noted above) is a great tip.

You haven't lived until you've hung tiles on a staircase that winds around and up. I did that at church a few years ago on the stairs leading up to the baptistery. There were a few ladder moments when I nearly saw God.......

If you have bad shoulders, let somebody else do it. I have every shoulder issue known to man and I blame it all on hanging drop ceiling.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by The Boss

Ha - you give me too much credit. That crown was simply mitred and pushed up until the miters matched. The real trick in the house were the coffered ceilings in the dining room & the library - those were all coped!

Your project sound very similar to the basement I showed. All of the mechanicals are tucked into the room that is inside the L and on the front side of the stairs. Set up your laser first and see how high you can hang it in the main area - you may find that 7's makes it feel very small - even pulling a couple of inches could make a big difference.

I've already framed, & 7' is the best I can do unfortunately, hence idea for at least a portion of the space to be higher. That is why I like the mine theme. Man, freakin' cave. No matter as it would just be wasted storage without being finished. I have everything other than the ceiling material to do the project in some Bldg. somewhere.

I ended up using a Dremel to "cope" our God-awful inside crown corners and then filled some. It was IMPOSSIBLE to get an angle shallow enough no matter what we did. IIRC, the only way we could get it to work at all was to put the center Pc. in first and cope the 2 long ones to that, adding to the drama even further. Contractor's theatre we call it. Stove in the corner is an under appreciated concept BTW.

David- you're not making this any more attractive of an idea buddy!