[David Jones]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DISC-BRAKE-S...dc31c8&vxp=mtr
yes those are the spacers, I remember using them but they wouldn't fit on the housing end, they were a tad smaller ID. so I got a hand file and filled them out till they fit, also the caliper support brackets were a little tricky because of the hand brake cable ears had to face forward, on this one I cant remember the details, if your car has shocks mounted on the back then is easier cause calipers go on front and wont interfere, also after I installed the spacers the caliper still wasnt center enough to center the caliper so I put SS washers between caliper and bracket, about 1/8 to center the caliper...remember I used the deep brake rotors, not sure if it would be easier with other shallow rotors..they work great...I didnt even used 4WDB brake proportioning valve...using oem brake booster system dual reservoir..I wish I had taken pictures and documented all i did. would have being eaiser to pass all info to you guys..hope this help

You used the factory disc/drum booster, master cylinder and prop valve?

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

David Jones, yes, factory OEM brake proportioning valve, oem master cyl. and booster..I am thinking they work so well cause the motor pulls high vacuum to b. booster.

[MNBob]

MNBob....what kind of axles does your car have. C Clip or bolt in?

Mine is the standard 79 ten bolt with the C-clips.

I think caliper centering is a little different for each setup. For example, original disks or drums. I may not use the eBay spacers and just use stainless washers depending on how the centering looks.

[David Jones]

I should get my spacers Monday or Tuesday.
Right now I'm having a little trouble finding rebuilt calipers/brackets locally. Advance didn't have them and didn't show any at the warehouse. I'll check an OReilly's on the way from the office Monday. I have everything else. I'm going to install the rear axle stuff and make sure it operates at some level before I worry about a booster/master cylinder.
Time to decide if I want to do this now or later this year......

[MNBob]

I'm going to install the rear axle stuff and make sure it operates at some level before I worry about a booster/master cylinder.

I have read that the disk/drum master holds a residual pressure that is not good for a disk/disk setup. So you might want to plan the prop valve and master right away. Here is the thread:

http://transamcountry.com/community/...?topic=64952.0

[David Jones]

I just want to make sure the parts at the rear end work before I do anything up front. I'm seeing this as two different projects. I realize that the rear disc may not operate correctly without changes in the master cylinder/booster but I hate to tackle that end until I get the other end so I know it works. Once the shims show up (today/tomorrow) I'll have all my parts for the back.

[77HANDMEDOWN]

I did my whole rear as one project and finished it before moving to the front. I think it makes it easier to diagnose any problem that can come up because you changed less things. I KNOW my master and booster felt good and had a good pedal before I changed the rear brakes so if they went mushy afterwards I know it is the rears etc. My brakes were VERY touchy like this. We will see once the fronts and proportioning valve are done.

For what it is worth the couple of 79 T/As with rear disc I have seen all had the same looking master as a disc drum car with the smaller res for rear and larger one for front. That MIGHT be incorrect and not factory but I think it is right. The residual valve should be part of the combination valve and not the master. I am nobody but in my opinion if you change tire sizes, suspension or brake components you could benefit from an adjustable proportioning valve.

Your GTO's maybe different but on my t/a it had the huge brake line (3/8???) from the combination valve to the rear which needs some adaptors to fit a wilwood type proportioning valve. So running 3/16 line to the rear would be a good idea unless you want a bunch of adaptor fittings which does not look as clean and also has more potential leaks.

[David Jones]

My clutch master cylinder is right behind my brake booster. If/when I replace the current booster/master cylinder the replacement can NOT sit any closer to the firewall than what I have now. Figuring that out should be interesting. I'd like to have a somewhat factory looking arrangement if possible....slightly smaller diameter would be OK though.

[JC455]

You might consider a 78-ish Corvette M/C for your conversion. It'll look somewhat stock, but is designed for 4WDB. Might contact Tobin at Core3 for his input.

[kencar62]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

trying to be helpfull here, more pictures so you guys get and idea...

What e-brake cable did you use? Stock S10 or something else? I'll be doing this swap to a factory '80 T/A disc rear, which is going under my '73 Resto-Mod Firebird.

-Ken

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

Ken...I can not remember, pretty sure they were blazer's. They were too long, so i cut them to right size. The piece that goes in bracket i reused it ..I figure i never really use parking brakes...i thing late 90's gm mid size cars have correct lentgh...

[kencar62]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

Ken...I can not remember, pretty sure they were blazer's. They were too long, so i cut them to right size. The piece that goes in bracket i reused it ..I figure i never really use parking brakes...i thing late 90's gm mid size cars have correct lentgh...

Guess it's time to hit the junkyards looking at late model GM rear discs & e-brake cables to see what might work. I have the p/n for the S10/Blazer cables (GM 19110881), so I can order them if necessary.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by kencar62

Guess it's time to hit the junkyards looking at late model GM rear discs & e-brake cables to see what might work. I have the p/n for the S10/Blazer cables (GM 19110881), so I can order them if necessary.

I have a fairly easy resolution for the e-brake cables, if anyone's interested. I picked up two new a-body cable assemblies from Advance Auto Parts ($18 each), then went to the junkyard and picked up the inner cables of an S10 (Blazer, T10, S10, doesn't matter). This gives you the correct rear attaching hook for the disc brakes. Cut the inner a-body cables and discard the inner cable, but retain the springs. Insert the S10 inners into the new assembly and then find someone to swage new a-body front ends on them. I did some guesswork, because the original cables mount about 2.5" forward when compared to the S10 version. While I had the brakes apart, I went to Inline Tube and picked up two cable seals (they didn't come with the new cables), frame clips to attach them, and a new intermediate adjuster and nuts. Unfortunately the trans is out of my car, so I can't check the exact length, which is why I'm not giving any exact dimensions, but I'm confident it'll be fine, and the threaded adjusting rod can always be lengthened if need be using simple coupling nuts.

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

HJones1313--you got pictures. .can you post them..thanks

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by 69FIREBIRD76MM

HJones1313--you got pictures. .can you post them..thanks

Yes, here you are.........

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

Ttt