[67gtospud]

I'm thinking about installing an electric fuel pump for the only purpose of startups after the car sits for a few days or more.

I currently have a robbmc 550 mechanical pump but it takes quite a bit of cranking to get the engine to fire after sitting for a few days or more. I don't want to spend a lot of money on an electric pump because I only want it for starting so I'll shut it down once the engine fires.


I'm wondering if anybody has used this style pump and what they think of it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/

Also wondering the best way to plumb this style pump. Inline or bypass? Should the fuel be constantly sucked through the electric pump while it is off?

[pfilean]

I've been thinking if doing the same thing for the same reason. I've been looking at a similar type Carter but would put it in with a check valve in parallel with it located as close to the tank as possible. I would wire it using a push switch (like a starter button) and not a off/on click switch. Just push it long enough to fill three carbs and then hit the key. I think I'm ruining the starter with all the cranking it takes now.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by pfilean

I've been thinking if doing the same thing for the same reason. I've been looking at a similar type Carter but would put it in with a check valve in parallel with it located as close to the tank as possible. I would wire it using a push switch (like a starter button) and not a off/on click switch. Just push it long enough to fill three carbs and then hit the key. I think I'm ruining the starter with all the cranking it takes now.

X2, I posted a plumbing schematic several years ago on how to plumb in a "Primer" Pump/
'Go Faster" Pump in the fuel circuit after the tank and before the mechanical pump.

I have attached a picture of a Holley Pump By-pass circuit similar to what I have personally used.

The check valves are not that hard to find and use. You want a fuel resistant one, not a water PVC pipe deal.

Tom V.

[67gtospud]

Thanks for the picture Tom. That's what I was thinking for the bypass circuit but am just wondering if the pump style I linked would work as a check valve when not on or if it would just restrict flow? I'm currently running 1/2" line from tank to carbs so I'm kinda having a difficult time finding a fuel check valve.

Pfilean I currently have a factory speaker switch which runs my line lock when switch to the right and I was thinking I'd have it run on my fuel pump if I switched to the left. Since it'll only be used for startups I won't need both the electric pump and line lock on at the same time.

[Tom Vaught]

Good Questions:

This check valve might work for you.

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/turbo-carb-bypass.html

Tom V.

[fiedlerh]

Watch the pressure you pump puts out. I understand Q-Jets don't like anything over 6 psi.
I used to run a Delco 6 psi electric pump mounted on the rear frame cross member mounted on rubber bushings. Picked up power from the rear parking lights.

[lust4speed]

That pump is a pulsating pump and will work okay without the bypass system and check-valve. The gerotor and vane pumps do need the bypass. I have that pump on one of my cars, and it works great for priming the carb after sitting idle; and the car cruises nicely with the pump off. What I have found is this pump and the others with the bypass does increase flow resistance, and that increases the possibility of fuel starvation when the pedal is to the metal. I'd therefore suggest a normal on/off switch so the pusher pump can be run when the urge for spirited driving comes up. I don't have a pilot light with the pump, but that would be a good idea since I have forgotten to shut it off. Doesn't hurt anything, but probably shortens the life of the pump running when it's not needed.

It's also a good idea to check pressure at the carb with the pusher pump running. While I've read that a booster pump shouldn't increase pressure, everyone we've put in does kick it up. Not a linear relationship since a mechanical pump that will show 6-1/2 pounds and a pusher pump showing 4-1/2 pounds might come out to maybe 9 pounds together, but it does need to be checked to insure you aren't going to overpower the needle valve.

[pfilean]

Summit has Carter check valves such as number 169-1002. Might be other sizes as well.

[David Jones]

I used a Carter P4070 to help keep my qjet full when I'm running hard and also to cure the dry bowl starting problem. Otherwise I use the mechanical (I think it's an Airtex....deep sump) for normal driving. The pictures on my thread show a huge Fram filter. That's gone away and I now (last 6-7 years) use a small RobbMc filter as a pre filter for the electric. As the picture shows I cut a piece of aluminum angle and mounted that between the gas tank strap bolts and then mounted the P4070 to that. It's worked well for 8 years now.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...arter+electric

[John62]

A couple of you mention connecting it to a switch. Check the amp rating of the switch and the motor[pump]. You will probably need a relay. When done check voltage at the pump with it running to see if you still have 12v.

[Tom Vaught]

The Pulse Pumps do not really need a check valve as the have internal check valves in their design. Vane Pumps (Holley and others) do need some form of check valve as you will just be picking up fuel from the tank then returning it to the pump or tank again otherwise.

I used a 30 AMP relay and 10 gage wire to to power my fuel pump and used a low voltage 16 gage wire from a switch near the dash to turn the relay on. The 10 gage wire powered the Fuel Pump. I used a higher capacity fuel pump because I was after the 'Go Fast" mode as well as the 'prime the carb(s)' deal.

Tom V.

[Formulas]

The impulse pumps may not need a check valve, the purpose of a check valve in this case is to allow the pump to pressurize the line and not feed back to the tank when run parallel , otherwise you would be forced to put all components in series the man has 1/2 inch line and that pump has 5/16 so who is for sucking fuel using a robbmc pump up front through a 1/2 inch line neck it down to 5/16 inlet / outlet part time pump near the tank ??

If you cant find a -8 or larger check valve you might consider two -6 valves
Also the aviation world utilizes suitable check valves I managed to scrounge a handful of -6 er`s they have a lightly sprung flapper door with a viton seal on it


Or run everything in series and your starter pump will have to be built / engineered as not to be a restriction while off


.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...el+check+valve
.

[67gtospud]

After reading through all the suggestions I think my best bet would be to route this pump as a bypass style. So I did a quick (rough) drawing of what I'm thinking. Please correct me if it's wrong or won't work.



Also Tom, I looked at that fuel check valve but it doesn't specify size. So im still on the lookout for a 1/2" fuel check valve

[lust4speed]

You need the check-valve between the two T's. The way it is drawn, the fuel can simply loop back around when the pump is running.

[67gtospud]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

You need the check-valve between the two T's. The way it is drawn, the fuel can simply loop back around when the pump is running.

Yes I see that now. Here's the revised drawing:

[Formulas]

Look at the Jegs link above