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#1
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Opinions needed for new seal, I don't want to lift the crank if i don't have to for the 1 pc rear main seal and wondering if the 2 pc seal is a good deal and installs easy ?
Thanks in advance Gregg |
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#2
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I know this isn't the way you're thinking you want to go but forum member Geeteeohguy helped me do my one-piece seal a few months back and it worked great. It passed the 'tip test' afterwards and we just fired it up (for the first time in 18 years!) and zero leaks. The car is not quite roadworthy so I don't have any results to report after 1000 miles, etc.
We did remove all the caps and lifted up the crank slightly (approx 1/2") but the one-piece positions the parting line at the top of the crank which I think further reduces the chances of it leaking. If you still want to go two-piece, plenty of people here have had good luck with it (check 'Street' section). I'll ship you the BOP two-piece I bought several years ago (removed from package but no attempt at install) for $30. |
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#3
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If you dont want to pull the engine and lift the carnk get the best gasket grafite rope sold by all the pontiac aftermarket guys.IMO the 1 pc BOP seal is the only way to go.Tom
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#4
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Just did the 1 pc seal .... I'm pretty handy, and it was kind of a pain (for one person) lifting the crank ... I used a overhead hoist to hold the crank while I worked. It was the only one I've ever done ... had to fiddle with the fit a bit, trim the end. I'm sure it makes a HUGE difference have experience doing a few of them.
To be honest, if I had to do it over again. I probably would have opted for the two pc seal. I think I would be more confident in the outcome. But again, I'm sure it's different for someone that has installed a few of them. I won't be able to tilt test it for a while yet ... but I will before I install the engine and will install a new one if it fails. I'm not confident in the trim I made at the parting cut ... I chose the wrong side to trim and felt the metal bead a bit. But it still felt like it compressed a tad when the cap went on, and I did use a tiny dab of sealant and the parting line. I sure wish engines had a different arrangement on the back of the crank so you could use a conventional seal. Like a giant hex drive or something
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#5
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FYI,I'm 100 percent with 4 BOP 1 PC and 3 best gasket ropes and 50 percent on the 2 PC BOP.The 2 PC is very dependent on how concentric the seal grove is.The factory used a rope for a reason.Tom
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#6
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I have used all 3 seals. The 1 piece is a bit harder to put in but is the best by far IMO. I'm running a rope seal in the engine thats in my car right now & it seals good to as they do if you take your time. If your just replacing a seal the 2 piece is the best for that as you can install it just by getting the crank up about 1/4 inch so it will slide in & around. Then with that seal you install it with the parting line offset by about 20-30 degrees so the parting line for the seal & the crank don't line up. The 1 piece you should have help in putting them in unless you can pick up the crank with to fingers & then put it in place , but otherwise have someone help you & the 1 piece will seal great. As for Pontiac using them , they did the rope seal for cost savings. We do our so we know they are sealed.
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#7
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The Best Graphite seal I had put in mine is still going strong without a hint of a leak. Been about 3 or 4 years now but probably only a couple thousand miles if I had to guess.
I had another put in the 389 but it's still on the engine stand.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#8
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Quote:
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk |
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#9
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Best IS the brand..
http://www.bestgasket.com/
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#10
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Completely agree. It's a great seal, but best fitted on a bare block. Those seal grove are just cast in the block & after things are squared up they are line bored. Last one did was on a 455 & I had to use a shim in the groove to get the correct seal pressure on the crank. I have found these seals even with perfect fitment can still leak just enough to make a drip once in a while that will get the back of the oil pan moist & collecting dust. I believe this comes from the angled groves in the crank designed to pull oil back in agains the rope seals. I may have this area polished smooth on the next one if it doesn't take too much material off.
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![]() 68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#11
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The seal area on my original 400 crank was pitted, but my journals didn't even need to be cut, so I really wanted to use that crank. I had the seal area welded and recut by a high end shop and then used the 1 piece BOP seal. So far I've only done the break-in, but no leaks. We'll see what the future brings.
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