[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

I've used 4 or 5 of the Lokars flexible dipstick tubes on Classic Chevy resto-mods in the past with no problem at all. Worked very well for me and had no problem filling the trans with fluid. It was slower to fill but it was no big deal to me. I attached the upper end to a convenient place on the firewall. The tube is flexible, so if you leave a little slack, there's no problem with engine/trans movement. Good solution when space behind the engine is limited. And they never leaked.

This sounds like what I need. But I ain't gonna pay a hundred bucks for one. So, the cheap Chinese models look like Lokar knock-offs. Anybody had any experience with one of these ? There are lots of 'em listed on Ebay, in the $20-$40 range.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-Flexib...xYdUNn&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GM-Tur...3D180947298787

http://www.ebay.com/itm/28-Black-Sta...ZXl639&vxp=mtr

Here's the $90 Lokar. Looks like the same double O-ring seals. Any reason why the cheap ones won't seal just as well as the Lokar ? Again, anybody used a cheap one ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-Hi-Tec...5XS-Kt&vxp=mtr

Most of the Lokars with the top hat seal are $100 +--unless somebody knows of a cheaper source for Lokar stuff. ???

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-Anchor...xW5RZ3&vxp=mtr

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

"...Find a later style GM dipstick tube that uses the improved lip seal..."

OK, but I've never even seen a tube with the top hat seal. So, exactly what years & trans types came with one of these tubes that I need ?

My 79 th350 has the top hat seal, so from 79 and up should have them. If you didn't want to spend the time junkyarding for one, you could buy a new $20 tube on eBay and use the end off of it.

BUT...while looking on eBay, I found this!!! It's a lower tube repair kit. You cut off the bottom of your tube and install this metal conversion sleeve which converts your tube to a top hat seal. Look here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dipstick-Fil...uiPt9w&vxp=mtr

[ponyakr]

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

...BUT...while looking on eBay, I found this!!! It's a lower tube repair kit. You cut off the bottom of your tube and install this metal conversion sleeve which converts your tube to a top hat seal. Look here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dipstick-Fil...uiPt9w&vxp=mtr

WOW ! That looks like exactly what I need. If it works as advertised, it should fix my leak, using my stick. Thanks for the info !!!

Now the question: has anybody here every tried this, or know anybody who has ? If this really works, looks to me like it should be almost standard equipment for all the old single O-ring type tubes. No welding--no leaks--keep your original tube that fits the car. Sounds too good to be true.

Yeah, I think it WAS too good to be true. I reread the ad. It says ATTACH the metal sleeve. I assume that means weld, braze or whatever. I was initially thinking slip-fit. But it's the hat that "slips" on. Oh well, you get the end & a seal, and won't have to cut an end off another tube. If I decide to try this instead of a flex tube, maybe I can get a friend to weld it on for me.

Here's the end & seal a bit cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-350-Di...3D252263551944

http://www.fitzall.com/K35999R.php

I just can't help being curious. Since the same size seal fit so many different transmissions, is there not any of the later tubes that would work in a 1st gen Bird ? I mean how many possible different firewall shapes could there be. Looks like there would have to be at least one that would be close enuff to work.

[ponyakr]

Hey, the more I search, the cheaper this fix gets !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Filler-Tube-...3D122300052435

This is the only brand I've found. It's FitzAll #K35999R. Don't know if anybody else sells the end.

But obviously, you can buy the hat seal most anywhere. They're about $3. Probably even cheaper, if you buy local, where you don't have to pay shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TransTec-700...ZS6aM3&vxp=mtr

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-1259475

http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco/065/1259475/10002/-1

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acd...ick+seal,10970

How about $.79 ?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...zer&vi=1050714

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

Hey, the more I search, the cheaper this fix gets !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Filler-Tube-...3D122300052435

Good find on a much cheaper price. They're practically giving them away with free shipping. Looks like the last one available in that listing at this time, so you might want to jump on it.

Yes, I'd mig weld it to the tube, since I have a mig. A tig weld would be nice. What makes this easier is that this replacement end slips over the original tube, so that makes for easier welding than trying to butt-weld 2 factory pieces together. Of course, you'd want to measure your original tube before you cut it, so you can make the modified tube the same length down to where it meets the transmission case.

I was also thinking that it could be glued together using some epoxy putty, like Marine Tex, which is pretty sturdy stuff. But it's fairly expensive. JB Weld might work. Maybe even a tough silicone adhesive, like Permatex Ultra Gray RTV, might be sufficient to glue it together. Rough up the surfaces so it has something to grab.

[ponyakr]

"...I was also thinking that it could be glued together using some epoxy putty, like Marine Tex, which is pretty sturdy stuff. But it's fairly expensive. JB Weld might work. Maybe even a tough silicone adhesive, like Permatex Ultra Gray RTV, might be sufficient to glue it together. Rough up the surfaces so it has something to grab."

Now that sounds more up my alley. I can whack off the old tube & glue on a new slip-on end. And when you think about it, it can't come apart. The top of the tube is bolted to the bell housing. And it can't go down, because the hat will hold the new end above the hole. So, all the glue, epoxy, silicone, or whatever, would have to do is stop the fluid from oozing out, while the engine is not running. There would be no pressure on it at all. At least in my mind that's how it would work.

[Grand73Am]

Before you buy it, you might want to ask the seller about it. From the looks of it, I'm assuming it slips over the end of the original tube, but you know how assuming is. So, I'd make sure about that. And you could also ask them how they would suggest attaching it to the original tube.

[ponyakr]

OK guys, check this out. I ask my tranny guy. He said he uses the universal FitzAll dipstick & tube, on most all his builds. Said it hugs the trans real close & should work in a '68 Bird.

And, it will bolt up to a BOP bell housing. Ya'll check out these pics & see what you think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH350-TH350C...3D160546929002

http://www.fitzall.com/cmsAdmin/uplo...ctions_001.pdf

There's one on Ebay for about $25. So, do ya'll think it will work in a '68 Bird ? If so, it should solve my problem, huh ?

Anybody ever use one of these ?

[Cliff R]

I've used them a few times, but NEVER on original TH350's and 400's, the tube end conversion is a much better repair there, and can be done in less time than one of the many Google searches done here to cure a very simple issue.

I don't really like those tubes and for some set-ups they stick pretty far up into the engine compartment, and can make transmission R & R difficult without removing it.

I've been using the tube end repair for decades to convert the very poor single factory "O" ring deal to the superior later multiple lip seal that NEVER leaks for any reason.

I think you found one for around $6, add $12 for some Marine Tex, a couple minutes to measure and cut the original tube, a couple minutes to clean it up and degrease it for epoxy, a day for the glue to cure and you are done with this problem for under $20.......FWIW......Cliff

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by b-man

Never give up your original auto trans dipstick tube, that tube is the only tube configuration that will fit your application. The aftermarket 'replacements' are a joke and I'd be surprised if they would fit any car with a firewall. The factory tubes are all very application-specific and there are few if any substitutes that will work.

Find a local welding shop to do the welding, or mail it out to someone who can add the new lip seal end to it.

This. NEVER buy a tube and stick that doesn't specifically denote BOP, the GM ones are generally for 'corp' engines, and not BOPs. Yes, the arm that bolts the top of the tube needs to be configured for a BOP bolt pattern. And no, 350 and 400 ones are not interchangeable.

I had a pile of tubes and sticks that didn't fit the 442, and many even specifically stated they were for it.

That ATI one I think is one that I used, and I used a TCI one on the 4L80E. Had a similar problem finding a tube & stick for it as well.

I honestly have never seen any of those 'FitzAll' ones, but in my experience, those type never fit either! The tab needs to move A LOT to be able to change to a BOP pattern from a chebby one, and if it does move that much, it's going to be fugly. (may be hidden anyway tho)

[Cliff R]

+2, there is no such thing as a "one size fits all" tube and dipstick assembly.

The universal tubes will more times than not need modifications to get them to fit, and seldom do they fit well.

Replacing the end of the tube with the later multiple lip seal is the best repair/upgrade out there for a leaking "O" ring, and best part is that you get to re-use your original parts for a perfect fit every time.

Of course it is more of a professional repair than a hobbyist deal, but most hobbyist know someone with the equipment and skills to effectively braze or weld the new end to the tube at a reasonable cost.......Cliff

[ponyakr]

OK, THANKS guys !

My trans guy is the only one who likes & recommends the FitzAll.

So, if I try it and it won't work, maybe I can sell it to him. If not, at least I'll still have my original, which I can mod.

AND, I'll know, 1st hand, whether or not the FitzAll will work in a Pontiac powered '68 Bird.

OR, even better, maybe I can sell the car before race season & let somebody else fix the leak.

Anybody need a cheap '68 455 bracket Bird ?

Anyhow, I'll post the outcome, when it happens. Thanks again for the replies !