[barrierblue66]

Originally Posted by Hitman

I walked away from a 65 Bonneville yesterday and part of the reason was the shuddering when hot with the 8 lugs. $350 a pop plus shipping is a lot to swallow but you are right. They look great on the car.

Always loved the wheels, so after selling my GTO and going all B body thought I'd give it a try with some of the proceeds.

[mr67gp]

Bumping this thread to see if you can give us a 1-year later review. Still happy with the decision to go with vendor you chose? Drums still smooth and quiet?

[Engine-Ear]

good idea, mr67gp!

Barrier, windshield-time-feedback needed!

[ho421]

600+ miles so far on my relinings and no issues. Of course I went easy on the braking the first 200 miles for break-in.

Still shudder-free

Also satisfied with my BOP 15" RIMS

[tempest1964]

Man, those look good!

[real61ss]

I used J&G, was very happy with the results

[mr67gp]

Originally Posted by ho421

600+ miles so far on my relinings and no issues. Of course I went easy on the braking the first 200 miles for break-in.

Still shudder-free

Also satisfied with my BOP 15" RIMS

Those do look great.

I am thinking about what I want to put on my '67 GP ragtop. I have more than enough 8-lugs, but my interest is in usability of them on a resto-mod car, not a stocker. My drums all need re-lining, and I don't want to sink the $$$ into them until I know I can get the wheels and rubber I want first.

I see that BOP offers the new 8-lug wheels in almost any diameter, width and offset. I find this . . . attractive. Has anyone gone bigger than a 235 cross section tire on a 15 or 16 inch BOP rim? I know, I should just contact BOP.

I have 255/60-15s on my '67 GP hardtop, and would actually like to go a bit wider on the rears for my ragtop.

[ho421]

Originally Posted by mr67gp

Those do look great.

I am thinking about what I want to put on my '67 GP ragtop. I have more than enough 8-lugs, but my interest is in usability of them on a resto-mod car, not a stocker. My drums all need re-lining, and I don't want to sink the $$$ into them until I know I can get the wheels and rubber I want first.

I see that BOP offers the new 8-lug wheels in almost any diameter, width and offset. I find this . . . attractive. Has anyone gone bigger than a 235 cross section tire on a 15 or 16 inch BOP rim? I know, I should just contact BOP.

I have 255/60-15s on my '67 GP hardtop, and would actually like to go a bit wider on the rears for my ragtop.

Im using the BOP 15x8s in back with 255/60/15s. Mickey Thompson sport radials. Based on tire calculators the cross section width of the Coopers and MTs were less than BFs. Ive got plenty of room. Wade offers various offsets. I used the std offset listed on his website for the 15x8. But not sure about your application. 275s might be pushing the envelope on my 63.

[mr67gp]

Originally Posted by ho421

Im using the BOP 15x8s in back with 255/60/15s. Mickey Thompson sport radials. Based on tire calculators the cross section width of the Coopers and MTs were less than BFs. Ive got plenty of room. Wade offers various offsets. I used the std offset listed on his website for the 15x8. But not sure about your application. 275s might be pushing the envelope on my 63.

I am using 15x8 Chevy pickup wheels on the coupe, with the rears offset deepened so I can run the 255s but still use my "Disk Brake" hub caps and fender skirts. Going to a 275 will require some clearancing, which I will do on the ragtop. Don't think I will need to go to a "mini-tub", but we'll see. Not running skirts on the ragtop.

Which M/Ts are you running? Sportsman S/R?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street/sportsman-sr/

or the Sportsman S/T?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street/sportsman-st/

[ho421]

Originally Posted by mr67gp

I am using 15x8 Chevy pickup wheels on the coupe, with the rears offset deepened so I can run the 255s but still use my "Disk Brake" hub caps and fender skirts. Going to a 275 will require some clearancing, which I will do on the ragtop. Don't think I will need to go to a "mini-tub", but we'll see. Not running skirts on the ragtop.

Which M/Ts are you running? Sportsman S/R?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street/sportsman-sr/

or the Sportsman S/T?

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street/sportsman-st/

S/Ts. Liked the price on Summit.

[barrierblue66]

I am also very happy with J&G. Don is a great guy and provides excellent customer service and advice. My drums are fine, though I have not driven the car much as I was dealing with a few other rebuild issues in other areas. After getting on the road, the brake shoes I used (Raybestos Pro) seem to be made of a very hard material and are taking alot of time to seat. Lots of brake dust. I tried to find NOS shoes but none around. I'm going to send my old shoes to Don who will reline and arc them.

But as I said Don as been super helpful for the past year and I would recommend for his time devoted after supplying the relined drums.

BTW what shoes are you all running?

[tom s]

There is a local shop here that is very old school.They still have a machine to spin balance on the car.They get lining for 8 lugs out of canada as I remember.They told me the hard stuff avail here kills lined drums.Tom

[brucee70]

Originally Posted by barrierblue66

A few more. Oh yeah, polishing the spokes is alot easier to do with the drum mounted on the car

Looks great Ken !!!

[8LUG]

"There is a local shop here that is very old school.They still have a machine to spin balance on the car"

[tom s]

8lug,thats too pretty to use!Millers LOOKs old school!Tom

[mgarblik]

That Hunter "Mexican Hat" wheel balancer is in mint condition. That's the first balancer I was taught to use. They would work great on 8 lug wheels. A very dangerous tool to use if you were not careful. The motor could easily spin the wheels way over 100 MPH. On top of that, you had to grab the green and red knobs on the hat while the wheel was at speed to add or remove weight and to locate the weight on the wheel. Very ingenious tool. They were especially dangerous on chrome wheels like Oldsmobile Rallye wheels. The adapter and mexican hat could slip off at speed and go flying off the car at dangerous speeds. We had one fly off and break several glass panels out of the shop overhead door, keep going another 100 ft. out into 4 lanes of traffic. OSHA would NEVER allow a tool like that in a shop today! Good times.

[U47]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

That Hunter "Mexican Hat" wheel balancer is in mint condition. That's the first balancer I was taught to use. They would work great on 8 lug wheels. A very dangerous tool to use if you were not careful. The motor could easily spin the wheels way over 100 MPH. On top of that, you had to grab the green and red knobs on the hat while the wheel was at speed to add or remove weight and to locate the weight on the wheel. Very ingenious tool. They were especially dangerous on chrome wheels like Oldsmobile Rallye wheels. The adapter and mexican hat could slip off at speed and go flying off the car at dangerous speeds. We had one fly off and break several glass panels out of the shop overhead door, keep going another 100 ft. out into 4 lanes of traffic. OSHA would NEVER allow a tool like that in a shop today! Good times.

Yeah, we had one in our dealership back in the early 70's. One of the guys didn't lock it down and as you said well over 100mph it came off climbed his workbench, the wall behind the bench, up to the ceiling, half way across the ceiling and down onto the car he was working on. It was like a buzz saw, and all of us guys running for cover! For all it's shortcomings I liked using it better than our Alimite strobe balancer.

[8LUG]

Hunter had a strobe also. stored inside a metal box with rollers that was used as a seat .

[Heybuck]

I just pulled my brakes down and sent my front drums (8 lugs) out for a new set of linings and had them radius ground to suit the drums.

All good there. I bought my front drums new from Arrowhead some years ago and to date they have been faultless.

But I have still had minor brake shudder when hot even after buying and fitting the new drums. My original front drums were seriously bad - the car was a real pain to drive on the original drums so the commonsense answer is the rears need relining. You can see the "hot spots" on the lining. Not too bad but needs fixing.

In this thread the companies Z&L and J&G are mentioned. But no contact info.

Can someone please PM me the contact info for both of these companies so I can talk to them. Going to cost me a bomb to send them but what's money when you are dealing with old cars

Thanks, Ian

[barrierblue66]

Coming your way Ian

Ken