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#1
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Starting problem 67 GTO
I have a starting problem with my 1967 GTO. It gave me problems a month ago, but it was hot, so I opened the hood let it cool down and 30 minutes later it started. When it would not start, the solenoid did not click, nothing but the red light on the dash when turning the ignition switch. Fast forward a week, another hot day and car does same thing at the gas station. No worries, I'll let it cool down and it'll start, right? Not this time. I ended up getting her towed home where I had the driver drop it on an incline and I popped the clutch and drove her into the garage. This is an HO car with the HO manifolds without the heat shield on the solenoid (i lost it years ago) so I figured I must have toasted the solenoid. Today I replaced the starter & Heavy Duty solenoid (with a replacement heat shield) and nothing......same as before. Wires look good to solenoid, but turn key, red light on but nothing else, no clicking, nothing. Interior lights just fine. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to get the details to the problem so maybe someone can help with where to look next. irgoatmike
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#2
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Start by isolating parts of the system. Get a remote starter switch button and by pass all the starting circuit in the dash. May be a strain to hook it up on a Pontiac unless you have the junction on the inner fender. Then its easy. But if the solenoid works with a remote starter then the problem is in the ignition switch or the associated wiring. If it doesn't work then get a new solenoid.
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#3
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Thanks for the input, it don't have the junction to work with unfortunately, but the solenoid is brand new. Not impossible to get one bad out of the box, but not probable. Could the coil be the problem? Irgoatmike
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#4
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Ignition coil wouldn't have anything to do with no starter operation.
You can start with a test-light. See if the purple wire, going to the (S) terminal on the solenoid has power when you turn the switch to start position. Old school; would be take a screw driver or wrench and see if the starter works when you touch the battery lug on the solenoid to the (S) terminal. So..need to see if the starter WILL work. And if power from the switch is making it to the starter. I've had a few old Pontiacs that the solenoid wire lost contact where it goes through the bulkhead connector. A short jumper wire from battery (+) to (S/the purple wire) on back of the ignition switch..will tell you if ignition switch is the problem. Solenoids pull quite a few amps...so battery to block ground connections might need checked. If (IDK) 67 has a clutch safety switch, there could be a bad connection there. Just need to do some testing and post back what you find. This should be one of the easiest electrical problems to fix on this car. Clay
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All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
#5
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Thanks Clay, I will try your suggestions and get back with what I've found. Irgoatmike
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#6
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no clutch safety switch on my '67. Solenoid pull-in current is about 40 Amps.
george
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#7
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thanks George! irgoatmike
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#8
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If I remember correctly there is a jumper in the neutral safety switch plug on the 1967's harness. When it doesn't start check for voltage at the jumper. If no voltage go back to ignition switch and check there. If there was voltage follow wire to firewall connector and check both sides.
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#9
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So I dropped the starter so I could access the solenoid connections and had the wife hit the ignition switch while I tested for hot. The battery lug had power eliminating that wire. The purple wire attaching to the "S" had no power even when the ignition was turned to on, full right. So I either have a purple wire problem or ignition switch Problem? Irgoatmike
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#10
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Well, tested power in and out of the ignition SWITCH, Power in tested bright, power out from purple wire, barely glowing. I am going to replace the ignition switch next. Irgoatmike
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#11
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Was "power in" bright when the switch was in the start position? If yes, then the switch is your best bet. If not, the problem is back towards the battery from the ignition switch.
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My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic. |
#12
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Thanks Bill, I'm gonna try the ignition switch. Irgoatmike
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#13
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Quote:
Clay |
#14
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I am ASSUMING you checked this while all wires were connected to the switch. It would be easy to make a jumper and bypass the switch and see if it does indeed spin over, before you go through the trouble of switch replacement. Seems like I pulled one apart and cleaned up the contacts.
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1968 Firebird 400 RAII M21, 3.31 12 bolt, Mayfair Maize. 1977 Trans Am W72 400, TH350, 3.23 T Top Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. Bill Nye. |
#15
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I had an issue on my 67 Firebird where the ignition switch went bad. It touched the starter over for a fraction of a second before no cranking. It was a new rebuild, and I wondered if I had excess rotating resistance from rear main seal, etc. I checked starter at parts store, and it was good. Then one time I weakly tested it in start, and it cranked nicely. Turns out the ignition switch lost power to "start" position at a certain point of overtravel. Turns out I was turning the switch too far, and breaking contact right after making it.
New switch didn't do all of the above. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the half splitting.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" Last edited by Squidward; 07-18-2017 at 12:05 AM. |
#16
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Ted, yes, tested while all wires connected, and installed new switch, same result, no start. Now for the Doh! Part (Homer Simpson). Installed a new power steering pump and in doing so, pinched the wire behind the block mount and shorted the wire to the starter. I threw in the towel and had a Pontiac friend look at the problem and Boom! 5 minutes later, there's your problem......kinda feel stupid, but that is why is is good to have a pontiac knowledgeable friend as a second set of eyes. Irgoatmike
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#17
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As a follow up, unpinched the wires (both red and purple had bare wire exposed, but no broken strands) retaped each wire and then together. Put everything back together and we have a starting car again! Thanks to all those who have added input, ideas, etc on things to try to solve this gremlin. This is the value of this forum. Irgoatmike
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#18
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Congrats on finding the problem!
This is one reason it's hard to diagnose over the internet. The 1st question should always be "what did you do to the car last?" Invariably one should start there, even if it doesn't seem to be related.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#19
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Just to add
This 'no start' problem may show up again. With a dead short like this, fusible-links should have been blowing out.
SO...If (BIG IF) the car has its fusible-links...one may be ready to fail at any minute. If it doesn't have the fusible-link protection...I'ld be putting them back to prevent an electrical fire in the event another short happens. Clay
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All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
#20
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Thanks Quick Silver, that is a good piece of advice, I will look into the fusible link. Irgoatmike
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