[455TA]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

Assuming your staged weight is close to 3700 your mph,et,and 60 ft are all suggesting you should be closer to 7 flats or better. Your 60 ft is good enough for a mid 11 quarter your mph suggests 7.0 -7.10 et capability .
It all suggests you're losing something in middle of run.

So find what's off in the middle of your run and chances are you'll go more mph with a 7.0 or better et.
Looking at all 3 numbers I'd be looking for fuel issues mid range.

I was thinking that my 60 ft time was a little too good to be running 7.30's and not any quicker. I will try to run a good datalog to see exactly where my AFR is in the middle of the run. I have noticed that it doesn't feel like it pulls quite as hard as it should when it goes into 2nd gear. Maybe it's getting too much fuel. I'm at 37 degrees of timing now and wondering if bumping it up a few degrees would make more power as well, since I have the 87cc E Heads

[ta man]

If the valve springs could take 1.65 rockers that would be an easy upgrade.I've always thought your times are pretty good for the cam choice.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by 455TA

You're car is awesome Ernie, and is crazy fast with the combination you had! Looking forward to seeing what yours will do with the upgrades!

I appreciate the compliment man! Just trying to learn as much as I can and always striving to improve!

Thanks final parts will be in very soon everything is done and shipped!

[455TA]

Originally Posted by ta man

If the valve springs could take 1.65 rockers that would be an easy upgrade.I've always thought your times are pretty good for the cam choice.

My springs are only good for .590 lift. If I upgrade to 1.65's it will put me at .572/.594 lift. I could easily change valve springs at the same time though because I have to tools to do it while the head is on the engine still. I can check PTV beforehand with a dial indicator and checking springs

[ponyakr]

"...It's a guess on 3700 lbs. The car has no insulation, aluminum radiator, water pump, heads, intake, pullies, etc. Electric fans, No AC or Heat. I have taken everything out that I dont need as a "comfortable" street car..."

There are lots of lightweight body parts available.

Also, if you can lighten anything that rotates, it will help. There are super light wheels, driveshafts, front drag tires. So, if you can spend the bucks, you can buy lighter stuff.

But, just like more power, lighter stuff cost more $$.

And, when you start looking for every last bit of ET you can get, you can even consider something like tire air pressure. More air pressure will give some tires less rolling resistance.

The smallest width rear tires that will still hook, will be the quickest. The bigger contact patch, of wider tires, will slow the car slightly, after launch. The same goes for softer compound tires & lower air pressure. Shorter rear tires will be like adding a little more rear gear. So, if you need more gear, shorter rear tires will lower ET. The shorter tires also have a smaller contact patch, which will produce less rolling resistance. Obviously, if you use shorter, harder tires, and more air pressure, they must still hook, in order to improve ET.

[455TA]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

"...It's a guess on 3700 lbs. The car has no insulation, aluminum radiator, water pump, heads, intake, pullies, etc. Electric fans, No AC or Heat. I have taken everything out that I dont need as a "comfortable" street car..."

There are lots of lightweight body parts available.

Also, if you can lighten anything that rotates, it will help. There are super light wheels, driveshafts, front drag tires. So, if you can spend the bucks, you can buy lighter stuff.

But, just like more power, lighter stuff cost more $$.

I'm currently running lightweight skinnies in the front and 15x8's in the rear with 275/60/15 ET Pro drag radials. Driveshaft would be a good option, as well as a lighter hood. It no longer has sway bars on the front or rear either.

[Skip Fix]

My 6.90s were 1.51 60s with the 5000 stall and the 9" slicks.

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by 455TA

I was thinking that my 60 ft time was a little too good to be running 7.30's and not any quicker. I will try to run a good datalog to see exactly where my AFR is in the middle of the run. I have noticed that it doesn't feel like it pulls quite as hard as it should when it goes into 2nd gear. Maybe it's getting too much fuel. I'm at 37 degrees of timing now and wondering if bumping it up a few degrees would make more power as well, since I have the 87cc E Heads

Lean it or fatten it... see what it likes. Timing should be close but try subtracting or adding 2 degrees and see what it likes.

BTW spark plugs tell more truth than afr monitors and logs do give you something to compare to.

It seems unlikely but if falling too far below powerband on shift you'll lag some. Raising shift point would tell you.
Its not a big cam but if its retarded it tends to behave like it is big and kills off low rpm tq and its not big enough to make a "fair trade" up top.

[steve25]

It's not just a large enough Cam to use 340 cfm, it's means increased rpm, a better fuel system which you made no mention of even as the car stands now , and a far better full race type rear suspension

[BruceWilkie]

Steve25
Read some more. He is NOT currently running 340 cfm heads. First post says 307 cfm.
Read further you will find his EFI is more than adequate to meet demand including anything 340 heads will support NA.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&postcount=12

. Also, this is fuel injected, which the system I'm using supports 1200 hp. It has 78 lb injectors, 58 psi of fuel pressure. My idea on getting the port job done to 340 cfm was only if I stepped up to a large enough cam to use it.

Read his posts he's got pretty good 60's for the gearing. Not Et'ing what it should for weight/mph and 60's shown.

If his data logs show fuel curve is where it should be then it's likely he's limited by the rpm range he runs vs rpm range the current heads/cam want (higher).

He wants to upgrade bottom end to support higher rpm and power in the future.

Hence earlier suggestions to upgrade to aftermarket block vs steel caps on 455 and of course with either block, upgrade to forged crank,rods, and better pistons.

[455TA]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

Steve25
Read some more. He is NOT currently running 340 cfm heads. First post says 307 cfm.
Read further you will find his EFI is more than adequate to meet demand including anything 340 heads will support NA.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&postcount=12

Read his posts he's got pretty good 60's for the gearing. Not Et'ing what it should for weight/mph and 60's shown.

If his data logs show fuel curve is where it should be then it's likely he's limited by the rpm range he runs vs rpm range the current heads/cam want (higher).

He wants to upgrade bottom end to support higher rpm and power in the future.

Hence earlier suggestions to upgrade to aftermarket block vs steel caps on 455 and of course with either block, upgrade to forged crank,rods, and better pistons.

You hit the nail on the head. I am just trying to get a good shortblock that can handle some more rpm, along with a cam that will get me to my goal of running well into the 10's in the 1/4. If I can get away with using the gear I have now, I'd like to keep using them, but if it requires me to step up to a 3.73 or something then I will. The fuel system that I have right now is factory tanke sumped, -8AN lines with a 340 lph pump thats capable of handling 800 hp NA, feeding the injectors, and a -6AN return. I have a rock solid 58 psi. Also, If I'm not mistaken, Jeff Kinsler runs into the 4's with Caltracs and leafsprings. I don't think I should have an issue running into the 6's with mine - although I do plan to get some better double adjustable shocks for the front and rear, and swapping my multi leafs for mono leafs

[BruceWilkie]

3.42 gear vs 3.73 isn't worth it to me. My old car got over geared at one point and everything gained in 1/8 was lost and then some in 1/4. 4.10 to 4.56 vs 4.3 that might have been best drag gear for my exact combo. After 4.56 experience I wasn't spending for 4.3 set.
Before putting my 4.10 set back in I borrowed a 3.2 chunk. My 5200 convertor flashed higher and was more like running a glide. With 4.1 my convertor behaved fine normal driving but 3.2 set flared convertor excessively. Bad enough I didn't drive to track to test. A year later instead of putting 9x30 slicks on at track I skipped the hassle and went with 28" "DOT" McCreary tire and 4.10 which worked very well.(a soft compound dirt track tire that was as sticky if not stickier than any of the new at the time BFG or M/T DOT tires) (E-heads we're still a rumor then too)

So...leave gears alone unless you go with real tall tires or shifting at 6700+. Today's convertor tech can get you more stall and still acceptable light load cruise. Mine was a new $900 race convertor specd for 4400 stall hot 355 sbc meets divorce sale at 1/3 cost and stalled 5200 rpm on my 440 combo. Pure luck it behaved well street strip.

[firechickenman]

In my opinion, you could reach your goal in one of two ways.

My first thought was simply replacing your rods and pistons with lighter/stronger pieces, have your crank checked then re-balanced for the new rods and pistons, and stud the 2 bolt mains in your block. A moderate solid roller cam, a converter change, and at least 3.73 gears would be needed also.

My second thought was building a 535 shortblock. You could probably get to your goal with your current converter and gears......maybe even use the cam you already have now. Downside to this option would be all the extra torque this combo would make. Traction and the strength of your driveline might be some issues to deal with. This would definitely set you up for going faster down the road because we all know no matter how fast it is.....it's never fast enough!