[64speed]

I am getting my frame back from AMD for three weeks to “detail” while they do the sheetmetal work. I don’t have the money to have it sand blasted but I do have a hellacious pressure washer and a wire brush. Once that part is done what would you paint the frame with? I am not going for a show look I just want it to look good. I was thinking I would just paint it with rustoleum but wondered if there was anything better out there?

[grivera]

Por15

[Murf]

I used pressure washer & oven cleaner plus some sanding. I used Zero Rust brand paint I like it a lot. You can Google it.

Murf


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[max 93]

I used Eastwood chassis black on the underside Of my car

[rustedgoat]

I've used masterseries silver then sprayed their black (2-part) with good results. Also sprayed rustoleum satin black#7777 (quart container) over an epoxy primer which I really liked. I've also had great success with Zerorust, but used on floorboards, first red oxide then black. POR15 I used years ago. My prep work wasn't as good as I thought, after some time you could peel parts off in sheets.

It's easy to get carried away on the frame, just remember how much is really visible. If you go thick on laying on the paint check the clearances for bolts and control arms while you have easy access to them.

[Toms bird]

Por 15 make sure you use the prep also. You can or should topcoat. If you do it when its still soft I believe the direction say tacky that paint bonds right to the por 15.

[AZ64GP]

I painted the underside and frame of my '64 Grand Prix with KBS Coatings. Very similar to POR 15 but a little cheaper. If I had to do it all over again, I would have taken my frame to get blasted and powder coated.

It was a very messy, time-consuming process to prep and paint (prep is two steps and then I did two coats of the KBS paint). The paint is super tough (oil resistant, brake fluid resistant, etc.), which is great. The rough part is the prep is difficult underneath a car and you're hoping you don't miss a spot. The body and frame have to be VERY clean and prepped properly or the paint may not adhere properly. Also the paint is is miserable to work with. I dressed up in a disposable paint suit (bunny suit) when I painted because if any paint gets on you, it's not coming off. The packaging warns that only time will remove the paint from your skin. I was careful and took my time and I still had spots where the paint chipped off and paint runs, drips, etc. in the finish. I used Eastwood chassis paint in a spray can to get in the spots I could reach with the KBS paint and to touch up spots that chipped, etc. You could probably paint the whole frame with the Eastwood chassis paint in the cans, but I don't know how well that would look or last if you're painting without prepping the frame. If you're going through all the cleaning and prepping of the frame, you may as well use PO 15 or KBS in my opinion.

I wanted to save some money and time by doing it myself, but I definitely didn't save time and the process was rough. If you're separating the body from the frame anyway (I did to replace the body mounts) and have the means to take the frame to the powder coater, you'll be happier with powder coating.

[convgto]

X3 on the zerorust

[nytrainer]

For my money, time and effort invested you can't beat a black epoxy primer like SPI over a properly prepped frame surface. Added plus is that if you want to go nuts and fill pitting, etc. you can apply right over the epoxy then re-coat. No need to topcoat either but if you really feel the need to you can.
Most times the "elixirs" like POR 15 are used in place of proper prep of the substrate (ex. painting over rust) and expecting it to miraculously stop future corrosion.
I realize not everyone is equipped with the necessary equipment to spray but as an alternative the epoxy primer can also be brushed. In any case use of personal protective Eq. is a given.

[tom s]

DONT prep so much you loose the hidden vin on the frame!Just good to know its there and if some reason it is needed you will know where it is.Tom

[lugnutx2]

I used Rustoleum Professional grade gloss black on my 65, it turned out nice. I bought the paint at ACE Hardware.

[TedRamAirII]

You have come this far, don't half arse it now. Blast the frame and use black SPI epoxy primer. Take all of the frame components off and blast, replace bushings, ball joints etc then paint those also. I did see a guy use black farm equipment paint from Tractor Supply, it looked good. But if you don't prep it right, the results are short lived, then you will wish you had. https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8ced3...2b7c6af093.pdf

[64speed]

I am replacing all bushings and literally every piece attached to the frame will be new. With Christmas right here and all the outlay on other stuff I just can’t have it blasted here right now. No mobile blasters and the one sand blaster I know of knows he has the market cornered. Those coatings have given me a lot of research to do. Definitely more expensive than rustoleum. Where exactly is the vin I know it’s on the drivers side rear frame rail somewhere. If it didn’t have the texture I would have it rhino lined.

[Murf]

It's on top of the driver's side frame rail between the rear end & bumper.

I had really good luck with the oven cleaner & a pressure washer. You have to be careful where the run off goes.

Good luck & Merry Christmas!

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[tempest1964]

I used pressure washer, ground down the weld platter, Eastwood degreaser, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and their satin Chassis Black- medium grade. Looked awesome!

[Grand73Am]

If you have a good air compressor, you could buy a $130 pressure blaster from Harbor Freight and sandblast it yourself. I use Premium play sand from Lowes for about $4 a 50 lb bag. Be sure to wear a good dust mask, since you don't want to breathe the silica dust. Also, get a faceshield if you don't already have one.

Then, I'd spray it with one good coat of black epoxy primer, and then 2 coats of semi-gloss black single stage urethane. If you have a local name brand automotive paint supply store, like PPG or Dupont, you can get your supplies there. Then if you need something else, you can get it the same day, as long as it's a week day.

[64speed]

I have a sandblasted but when I use playground sand the nozzle gets clogged and it’s a pain. I hadn’t thought of oven cleaner but I will definitely be doing that. Would you do the frame in gloss black or semi gloss? I have all the UNI suspension stuff except for the front upper and lower control arms. Those are the global west knockoffs with y’all upper and lower ball joint installed. The factory control arms front and rear and the hotchkiss springs will be going up for sale sometime mid January.

[dhcarguy]

X2 on Rustoleum

[hdinch]

When I took my frame off I used sanding discs, took a little time but got the frame to bare metal then did the POR 15 prep and paint. It turned out decent.
That was fairly inexpensive and a good winter project.

[HWYSTR455]

I recently had a frame blasted and powder coated, the local shop I used is really good, pay close attention to detail, and if there were any issues with the part/frame, like cracks, poor welds, etc, they call to let the customer know. They are the most expensive blast & coat place in my area and charged $800, just to give an idea.

I've used a lot of POR15 before, one thing you need to ensure is to not shake it, and stir it as directed. If it gets aeriated, it will fail/peel/bubble. But, if done right, once it goes on and cures properly, it never comes off. On frames and other areas not exposed to direct sun light, you don't need to top coat it, but it's a little too shiny for my taste.

Powder coating and painting doesn't get the inside of the frame, so I used the Eastwood internal frame coating and antirust coating(s). They work. 3M has similar products, and have used those before as well, not sure if Eastwood rebrands or not.

It's easy to go crazy when doing stuff like this, but honestly, anything is better than nothing, and usually works for a considerable period of time. I've used a wire brush, etching primers, and engine paint many times and the results are good to very good. It touches up easy too.

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