[00fxd]

Years ago I hand wire brushed and brushed Rustoleum/Tremclad a street rod frame. Super budget deal. Still looks good today. Would do it again in a heart beat. Don't use a generic Rust paint, won't have the shine, won't cover as well and will probably fall off.

[dataway]

My problem with powder coat, at least on my farm equipment, is that once it starts to rust underneath the plastic, and it will if used in the weather, it holds in moisture against the metal and before you know it you have sheets peeling off. With paint ... no problem, sand blast and repaint, with powder coat .... a blaster will charge you twice as much, that is IF he will even take the job.
With paint ... I take out the angle grinder with a sanding disk, take the rusted area to bare metal, touch it up, done.
I've gotten where I won't even buy a piece of equipment that is powder coated anymore. Great for consumer stuff I guess, but for heavy duty applications that get a lot of rough use, and a lot of weather, not so much.
Right now my log splitter is outside with all the powder peeling off, in the spring that will have to be blasted and refinished in paint.

[Marv]

Originally Posted by dataway

My problem with powder coat, at least on my farm equipment, is that once it starts to rust underneath the plastic, and it will if used in the weather, it holds in moisture against the metal and before you know it you have sheets peeling off. .

If your powder is doing that then the surface wasn't prepped properly, or there is a serious error in how the powder is being applied & baked.

We coat farm equipment, chassis, industrial switch boxes, fences, earth-moving equipment down here and have zero flaking or rusting issues. And this stuff sits outside in our much more aggressive UV atmosphere than what you guys have in the USA.

[aceaceca]

Wow. A lot of different ideas. You want #30 Silica sand for blasting. I saw it at Home Depot the other day. Not kids play sand. As for paint, no one mentioned SEM Trim Black. It requires no primer, shoot it right out of the can with a slight reducer load. It really hold up. I have some on my fender wells , fire wall, and radiator support for 15 years outside and it looks great today. Rustoleum is also bullet proof paint in the quart can.

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by 64speed

As far as the inside of the frame my buddy has one of those nozzles you hook to an aerosol can so I am gonna rubberize undercoat the inside of the frame

Frankly, down in the South where we are, the frames don't have a significant rust problem. I just blast 'em good on the outside, and maybe a little on the inside on the front and rear ends of the rails where I can get to, blow the sand out real good, and just paint everything I can reach. No real need to try to get all the way inside the frame. As long as you blow out any dirt and sand, it's not going to rust from the inside out in our part of the country. So that would save you some time, effort and money for material.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by Marv

If your powder is doing that then the surface wasn't prepped properly, or there is a serious error in how the powder is being applied & baked.

We coat farm equipment, chassis, industrial switch boxes, fences, earth-moving equipment down here and have zero flaking or rusting issues. And this stuff sits outside in our much more aggressive UV atmosphere than what you guys have in the USA.

Without a doubt there are differences in the quality of the powder applications. But since I'm not doing the coating ... I have no control over that. So I have to opt for what I can fix if it doesn't hold up well.

Bear in mind while our UV isn't as harsh as yours ... my stuff does go through temp extremes of -20 below zero F, up to 95 F every year. Well within the capabilities of the powder itself .. but the expansion and contraction cycles and the freeze / thaw cycles play heck with the substrate.

[64speed]

So I am gonna pressure wash it and wire brush the really funky stuff off and then hit it with some rustoleum gloss black with enamel hardener in it. I’ve called around to all the blasters and powder coaters in my area and the money is just not there. I feel like this is the best compromise because I am putting a LOT on money in the car but at the same time it won’t be a trailer queen. I don’t want to have to worry about chips and touch ups on my frame. Gonna have enough of that topside

[dataway]

Go with the Semi-Gloss black. Way closer to OEM finish.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

.. I’ve called around to all the blasters and powder coaters in my area and the money is just not there. ...

Curious what kinds of quotes you got, and if it was broken down for blasting and coating costs?

.

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

.....eastwood rust encapsulator is the best I have used. You can topcoat if you want over the eastwood without resanding. POR 15 tends to peel off on non rusty parts.

Just did my 65 goat frame this weekend.

looks nice. that's all I would need to be happy.

[rohrt]

My $.02

It was around 18 years ago now that I did my sub frame but here is my thoughts on it.

1. Make sure it strait to start with. Either take it some place or do the measurements yourself. I have experienced myself and have seen many posts on where people fight body alignment or suspension adjustment because something was out of whack. You don't want to find out after its all together there is a problem. Its also a good time to clean up welds or add reinforcement if desired. The frame boxing kits can really improve the rigidity. Its also very important that frame is square when you drop the body back on assuming it off the car.

2. When I did my frame I did have it sand blasted. No better way of cleaning the frame then that IMO. If there are any cracks you will see them. And the A-body frames can crack.

3. I used a Sherwin Williams Etching primer(it had a green tint to it but don't recall what it was) on the bare metal and PPG DP90 epoxy over that. I wish I would have used a top coat over that but it has held up very well for me. I did the whole underside of my car like this and it still looks good. If I get a rock chip on the paint the etching primer can still keep the body from rusting. I had some bare parts that were just in the etching primer and stored in a damp location. The ability to resist rust was amazing.

[00fxd]

Originally Posted by 64speed

So I am gonna pressure wash it and wire brush the really funky stuff off and then hit it with some rustoleum gloss black with enamel hardener in it. I’ve called around to all the blasters and powder coaters in my area and the money is just not there. I feel like this is the best compromise because I am putting a LOT on money in the car but at the same time it won’t be a trailer queen. I don’t want to have to worry about chips and touch ups on my frame. Gonna have enough of that topside

That will work fine.... not sure you need the hardener - I am under the impression that hardener can make the paint brittle and prone to chipping. Just paint it with the good paint ... and as I think more about it, without hardener the paint will take longer to dry and so then the brushed or rolled on paint will will "flow out" more to a smoother finish. I think hardener is ok in some situations when the paint is applied with a gun. Hardener results in a harder, shineyer finish which isn't necessary in this application.
I am not a paint expert, this is just my personal experience.
One more thought, if you location is an area that is very "environmentally aware", there is a possibility that "water borne" rust paint be available DO NOT USE THIS. It is not really paint. Oil based only - if it doesn't stink it doesn't work.
P.S. I would would use semi gloss. Much less gaudy, hides better and more like a factory finish.

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Curious what kinds of quotes you got, and if it was broken down for blasting and coating costs?

.

Basically boils down to where you live & the service suppliers that you know. the media stripping company 15 minutes from me, have used for near 25 years, fairly good value for stripping endura bumpers, but in my exp, too expensive for blasting frames. Through another source have had A-body frames blasted on half dozen occasions for $75-$100. Each time I've hauled the bare frame & trans crossmember to my blaster's job site. usually, this mobile industrial blaster has been blasting large skid tanks & equip for oil patch customers. I've unloaded the frame & was there to position it on 30 gal drums, then load it back on my car trailer. Local powder coater is mile & a half from my shop, for years, he has been in the $250-350 range to powder coat a frame. Last summer, one of my local's had his '70 frame powder coated at this business, it was $300. Personally, will no longer go the powdercoat route on a frame or suspension pieces, just does not fit well with the level of detailed restoration work am involved with. Often too glossy finish, as well as inability to easily touch up are the main reasons have given up this process on frames.

[JC61]

Powder Coat your frame.
You won't be sorry.
You only get one chance when the body is off the frame.

[dataway]

I've found using the Velspar hardener with the Rustoleum it actually takes LONGER to harden, way longer. Which seems counter intuitive ... but it takes about a week for it to fully harden. It "dries" in about the same time, but check it with a fingernail and you can feel it get harder day by day until about a week later your fingernail will skip right across it with no mark.
Haven't found it prone to chipping at all, but of course that can depend on how it's mixed, too much hardener and yes it might get brittle. It takes VERY little hardener, a fraction of an ounce to a full quart of paint.

[68azbird]

I use this hardener from tractor supply with rustolium. Dries in half the time and the paint is tought as nails.

[straycat]

Just got done using my cheepy HF pressure blaster with Tractor Supply Black Diamond 30/60 fine with 1/8" nozzle $7.99 for 50lb bag. Probably should have tried the 20/40, I think a little bit coarser would have done it quicker. Another vote for Rustoleum. Put down a large tarp to catch the grit, strain it thru a window screen and use again. With good pressure no problem clogging.

[64speed]

I have no environmental laws here in sc. I can paint whatever wherever I just can’t dump the residue in the Lake LOL. The cheapest I found to blast the frame was 800 bucks and like I said before with Christmas and an already almost 8 grand body bill I can’t swing it. My pressure washer is a hot water model so I ma gonna soak the frame down with muriatic acid wire brush the tough spots dawn detergent and I I lean the whole thing then blas it with hot water. Once it dries me and my nephew and wife are gonna paint it with rustoleum professional and apply it liberally minding the bolt shelves and threaded portions. That’s about the best I can do right now and I hope it turns out good enough to compliment all the suspension goodies etc I will be putting back on the frame.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by 68azbird

I use this hardener from tractor supply with rustolium. Dries in half the time and the paint is tought as nails.

Pretty much the same as Velspar ... except the Velspar doesn't mention the drying time. Actually the Velspar is a bit of pain, the first 24 hours the paint is still very soft. I typically get the Velspar at Tractor Supply. Evidently the hardener has a lot of effect on the paint. Regardless.... use some kind of hardener, it works great.



$800 To blast the frame ... that's crazy. My guy charges $50 a bag .... frame is about six bags. But I did transport it, pick it up, etc. He spent 30 minutes blasting time and it was done.

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by 64speed

My pressure washer is a hot water model so I ma gonna soak the frame down with muriatic acid wire brush the tough spots dawn detergent and I I lean the whole thing then blas it with hot water. Once it dries me and my nephew and wife are gonna paint it with rustoleum professional and apply it liberally minding the bolt shelves and threaded portions. That’s about the best I can do right now and I hope it turns out good enough to compliment all the suspension goodies etc I will be putting back on the frame.

Since you're not blasting the frame, and you're using Rustoleum, I suggest priming it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer first. It's very durable, prevents rust, and doesn't require a perfectly rust-free surface. Then top coat with the black Rustoleum paint. You don't really need to add hardener to the paint for it to last. I did that on my first 57 Chevy 35 years ago, since all I could do at the time was wire brush and clean the frame. It came out good and held up well for the 10 years I had it, before I sold the car. It's probably still good even now.
By the way, if you're buying the Rustoleum in quart or gallon cans, you can thin it and spray it with spray gun equipment. I thinned it with mineral spirits, and used a small, cheap compressor and gun at the time. So, you don't have to have expensive equipment to do a good job. Follow the instructions on the can for thinning, since you don't want to over-thin it. I believe it's about 10%. Rustoleum also sells their own thinner, like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...CABEgJcuPD_BwE