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#1
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Seat bolt stripped, advice?
Front bucket seat bolt hole is stripped. I tried to chase it with a trap but it's too far gone. Go from 5/16 to 7/16?
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#2
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Happened to me years ago. I run a nut and bolt no sweat. I remove the seat infrequently, so it doesn't really cause problems. Reaching below with one wrench at the same time as wrenching from above is easy.
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#3
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Helicoil
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1968 Firebird 400HO convertible 1971 Trans Am 4-speed, white/blue Last edited by 68bird400HO; 11-15-2017 at 12:51 AM. |
#4
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So you drilled through the floor?
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http://www.outlawpontiacdragseries.com |
#5
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You don’t have to drill through the floor, seat belt floor nuts are already open to the exterior
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My Break Away Squad 1969 Fbird (base OHC, 350, 400HO & Sprint Cvt’s - 400HO & TA ht’s) 1969 Custom S 2dr ht 1969 LeMans (2dr & 4dr ht & Cvt) 1969 LeMans Safari wagon 1969 GTO (2 Cvt, 2 ht & Judge ht) 1969 Cat (3 Cvt’s & 2dr ht) 1969 Ventura wagon 2 seat 1969 Exec 4dr post 1969 Bonnie Cvt & 2 wagons 1969 Bonnie Brougham (4dr ht & Cvt) 1969 Grand Prix 2 SJ’s 1969 2+2 2dr ht (Canadian) |
#6
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You don't need to drill out the stripped hole, but probably easier overall. Use a longer bolt & fit a nut...
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#7
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How about a rivet nut?
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68 400 HO 4sp Convertible Firebird400HO.com My 68 firebird 400 HO convertible Restoration Gallery |
#8
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I like the rivnut idea. Pretty easy to install. If you want it to look correct, you could use a time-sert . Recently I used them to fix a bad thread in a rear end bolt hole and a thread in my aluminum Muncie case.
Expensive, but super strong. As a test, I took an aluminum bar, drilled and tapped a hole in it, then did a time-sert with the same internal thread size. I torqued each one until they failed and the time-sert actually took more torque. Pretty impressive. |
#9
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I think JR is referring to the actual seat track to floor bolt, not seatbelt. Right?
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#10
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Seat track to floor. Rear one. Near the tunnel. Been work on my 2005 gto, so back to this soon.
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http://www.outlawpontiacdragseries.com |
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