[64speed]

Just bought one of those really high dollar spring compressors that was recommended to me in another thread. I will be taking the front Hotchkiss springs out and replacing them with AC Delco springs here as soon as the weather clears up. I will also be putting on my wilwood brakes. Does anyone know what the Hotchkiss springs are worth? I am gonna put them on eBay but I don’t know what to price them at. I think they are the two inch drop springs. I didn’t like the way they rode.

[HWYSTR455]

I'd say start at $50 plus shipping or $80 with shipping, and let it run auction style for 5 days. Clean them up and comment on time in use and how the coating is. They will sell probably for around $100.

.

[64speed]

Well Wednesday is the big day. Gonna have some help so I am gonna push the old girl out in the sun and do the front control arms, springs, brakes, and steering pieces. That will be the last bit of work completed for quiet a while because I got one daughter going to paid kindergarten and another needing braces so I will be saving for the chrome and the final prep and paint. It will be a slow savings plan so you won’t have to worry about too many asinine questions from me LOL just will be plugging away at the car doing what I can do as time and money allow. When I wore a younger mans clothes I could turn out an x frame Chevy in about 3 months drive it for 6 then sell it and start over but I guess those days are gone. This is my car and I don’t plan on selling it so I guess it doesn’t really matter how long it takes me

[64speed]

Well I started the suspension on Thursday thinking it was gonna be like my 58 Chevy and just fall together. Wrong!!!!! We spent most of the day getting the drivers side lower control arm off and then the new tubular one on. So far all I have done is the control arms on the drivers side done and the spindle remounted. I thought I could get all this done in a day so I started it of course the day before we left for the beach so my car is sitting in the driveway under a cover while my mother stays there and watches it LOL. Nobody can steal it I dont guess cause it has no front suspension. When I get back Tom Vaught has said he would take my control arms so I will be weighing them and boxing them up to ship to him and I am reusing the hotchkis springs in the front because it was gonna sit WAY too high with the AC Delco springs in the front. I have the factory height springs for sale here and on ebay so I hope someone will buy them. I bought them from RockAuto about 6 months ago or I would just return them. As soon as I get back from the beach I will take some pics

[64speed]

I already have us mag 18x8 with 235/45/18 all around but think I can go to 245 without rubbing. They are torq thrust style wheels with magnesium centers

[nmoreilly]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I already have us mag 18x8 with 235/45/18 all around but think I can go to 245 without rubbing. They are torq thrust style wheels with magnesium centers

I just saw that from the earlier posts..will look very sharp. 245 front / 255 rear would look even better if you can get them to fit

[64speed]

I have plenty of room for 255 but I don’t like a staggered setup. I like being able to rotate my tires

[64speed]

Well I followed everyone’s advice and sold the block with no main caps. I’m going to use the 455 block I have but I am gonna put the 4.25 stroke crank in it and bore it .30 for 462 cubes. Plan is still for the 6 speed and I have all the Holley sniper stuff. I think I am going to have four bolt main caps installed in the block I am building just for piece of mind. I want everything overbuilt. That’s why I setup the Rearend like I did. I want 100k trouble free miles with plenty of hard use smiles mixed in that mileage. Block will be studded of course.

[69 Limelight]

Thought you were getting 2- 400 blocks from Cliff and going to stroke one of those?

[pestwagon64]

Awesome 64 Tempest build! Subscribed!

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by 69 Limelight

Thought you were getting 2- 400 blocks from Cliff and going to stroke one of those?

That was last week, old news!

[64speed]

I decided to just save the money and build this 455. I am not going to be autocrossing or anything like that and after a lengthy discussion with Jim butler ( I’m on layaway with one of their kits) he told me that bearing speed etc was nothing to be concerned about with what I was doing so I trust their knowledge. My apprehension about using the 455 at first came from the “use a 400” crowd and in a perfect world I would be building based on a good 400 block but the only ones around here are 557 blocks which is no bueno. I’m sure I’ll be fine. Me and my wife were talking today and she wants the car done “today” which is just not economically feasible. I am still thousands of dollars away from my dream. She told me to sell it all and buy one already fixed but I had to explain to her that wasn’t the point plus I am way past the point of no return on this one. I am either building the worlds nicest Tempest or I am lighting cash on fire depending on who you ask. Could take me another 5 years which is my plan or could take 10 but it will be my car done the way I want it.

[hurryinhoosier62]

If you need a OE 455 crank, let me know.

[tom s]

Your wife is a smart women,just a year or so too late with it!Tom

[64speed]

I haven’t been this excited in years. Gonna be a long 6 weeks which is how long Butler said it would take to port the heads and ship them out. My machinist can port match my intake to the heads so I didn’t pay butler for that service. Do you think it’s worth the money for my build or is it just a wasted expense?

[HWYSTR455]

Port matching is a good idea, you do pick some up with it, and a simple gasket match is not expensive.


.

[dataway]

Nice goodies. Can't wait till you get it together.

[Tomslemans67]

Just remember by dipping parts there are going to be areas you will never get a new coating back on. There for it will be raw metal. I don't think acid dipping is the way to go. There is other dipping ways besides using acid!

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Tomslemans67

Just remember by dipping parts there are going to be areas you will never get a new coating back on. There for it will be raw metal. I don't think acid dipping is the way to go. There is other dipping ways besides using acid!

I’m not dipping anything that I can’t coat thouroughly with anti rust. Eastwood has that fogged nozzle that you hook to there anti rust coating. I was gonna put it in holes in the trunk lid between the seams and the same on the hood and fog it all over and turn the part and do it again and again as I rotate the part. You really think rust will be an issue after that. For that matter I could take a gallon of rustoleum and just pour it in the seam acces holes and shake the hood and trunk around until it’s coated then just let the body man get the excess off the outside before painting. Do these not sound like good ideas

[HWYSTR455]

Was just saying yesterday on a post he did on FB that I should go down there and take a peek at his projects and work. Joe seems like a good guy and am curious to see how the shop works. Seen pics of finished projects, and they seem like quality work.

As for the internal frame coating and anti-rust sprays Eastwood has, they work well. Yes, the trick is to cover areas entirely to prevent corrosion, though in many areas you can only guess if you have adequate coverage. You have to try to get it into seams, joints, and bends, which can be difficult in some areas. Spraying large flat surfaces can be a challenge. It's suggested to apply after paint, so no paint chemicals wash it off. That too can make a mess, so have to be mindful/careful of that.

Usually when dippers dip parts, after they go thru a wash/bath, and a type of corrosion inhibitor. Bare metal would flash almost instantly, so they do that so they don't get complaints, for one. Ask.

.