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Old 03-11-2022, 11:07 AM
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If my gas tank straps would come I’d be good to go. I’m a little worried about setting up the brake prop valve but there is a HS parking lot about a mile from me that I can creep to and do my best to set them up

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Old 03-14-2022, 05:06 PM
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https://youtube.com/shorts/Ft1tTOKwVCU?feature=share

And here it is running like it’s supposed to!

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Old 03-14-2022, 06:10 PM
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Nice!


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Old 03-14-2022, 06:31 PM
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Sounds great!!

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Old 03-14-2022, 09:35 PM
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Also idling with about 1/8 of a tank in it it ran the whole time while I tinkered with it till it ran out of gas and never got over 175/180 degrees

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Old 03-18-2022, 08:03 AM
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Can you post a pic for reference?

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
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Old 03-18-2022, 08:13 AM
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Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.


Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.

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  #8  
Old 03-18-2022, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.

Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.
Agree with this perspective. Do your best to just get the car up and running again, then the fine-tuning of wire & hose routing can be tweaked once you've gotten past all the more critical aspects of rebuilding the car.

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Old 03-18-2022, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.


Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.

.
Working on cars for over 45 years, I could not have said it better!

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  #10  
Old 03-21-2022, 05:48 PM
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I have to set the float level because of a flooding issue. The fuel is all the way up at the top of the bowl. Is there any way to get fuel out of the bowl without a hell of a mess?

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Old 03-21-2022, 08:26 PM
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Just run it at idle and adjust the float down. It will use up the fuel as you adjust. Just remember, the adjuster is the nut, the slotted screw is the lock. Loosen the lock screw and turn the adjuster clockwise (it's reverse threaded so it's opposite of logic) to lower the float until the fuel level is centered in the sight glass. Then hold the nut with your wrench and tighten the locking screw down.

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Old 03-22-2022, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
(it's reverse threaded so it's opposite of logic)
This is incorrect. It is NOT reverse (left-handed) threads. It is right-hand threaded. It is true that the nut turns the needle and seat assemble and the slotted screw is the "jam-nut" or locking device. Turning the nut clockwise lowers the needle and seat. That pushes the float, and subsequent fuel level, down. Don't keep running the car with the bowl overfilled. Loosen the screw and turn the nut a few revolutions clockwise. Now start the car, remove the sight plug and hopefully bring the fuel level UP to where it needs to be. Just put a rag under the sight plug hole in case it still spills some out.

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Old 03-23-2022, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSchmitz View Post
This is incorrect. It is NOT reverse (left-handed) threads. It is right-hand threaded. It is true that the nut turns the needle and seat assemble and the slotted screw is the "jam-nut" or locking device. Turning the nut clockwise lowers the needle and seat. That pushes the float, and subsequent fuel level, down. Don't keep running the car with the bowl overfilled. Loosen the screw and turn the nut a few revolutions clockwise. Now start the car, remove the sight plug and hopefully bring the fuel level UP to where it needs to be. Just put a rag under the sight plug hole in case it still spills some out.
That is what I said. Clockwise lowers the fuel level.

If you've ever held a nut and bolt in your hand, bolt head facing down and turned the nut clockwise, which direction does the bolt (float) advance? Up, of course. It is reverse threaded since the "bolt" or float advances downward when when the nut is rotated clockwise.

Brawler carbs do not have removable sight plugs. That is why it is recommended to adjusting while running. The engine will use the excess fuel level up as it runs and you adjust the float downward.

From the Brawler manual:

3. Before starting the engine make an initial check of the float level. This carburetor was pre-set at the factory to be in the middle of the sight glass at 6.5 P.S.I. Fuel pressure greater than 6.5 P.S.I. will cause the float level to be too high. Conversely, if the fuel pressure is significantly below 6.5 P.S.I., the float level will be too low. For the carburetor to operate correctly, the float levels must be in the middle of the sight glass. The most accurate way to establish the correct float level is to check it while the engine is running. If the initial float level is not visible in the sight glass, then it might be necessary to readjust the float level before starting the engine.

You can rough index the float lower with quarter turn intervals not running as the excess fuel will be released when the jam screw is loosened but adjusting while running will accomplish the same without guesswork and the possibility of setting too low so as to not start.

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Old 03-23-2022, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
If you've ever held a nut and bolt in your hand, bolt head facing down and turned the nut clockwise, which direction does the bolt (float) advance? Up, of course. It is reverse threaded since the "bolt" or float advances downward when when the nut is rotated clockwise.
Wha...wha..WHAT? Your terminology is confusing and wrong. Reverse threaded means left-hand threads. Period. It's not reverse threaded because if you stand on your head with one eye closed and and rub your belly it seems backward. It would only seem opposite of logic if you don't understand how it works. You are not helping the man understand how it works with your description.

Go back and read what I posted.

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
(it's reverse threaded so it's opposite of logic)

It's NOT reverse threaded.


Last edited by JSchmitz; 03-23-2022 at 05:58 PM.
  #15  
Old 03-22-2022, 05:47 AM
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Here: https://www.google.com/search?q=holl...60PEPw7-y0Ak17

  #16  
Old 03-22-2022, 08:39 AM
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I just don’t want gas everywhere. I guess stuff rags around it?

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Old 03-22-2022, 08:53 AM
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Each flat of the nut raises or lowers the float by 1/16". Note the level of the gas and turn the float down the appropriate number of turns to put the fuel level where you want it and start the car. The fuel level will drop quickly.

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Old 03-22-2022, 09:31 AM
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No need to pull the whole bowl off carb. Just do it like AG says and read it through the side sight glass till you are happy with it.

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Old 03-22-2022, 02:10 PM
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Got it done

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  #20  
Old 03-23-2022, 03:44 AM
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Well I have put 1/10 of a mile on it driving it around in the car port and it seems to do alright when my seat comes back I can drive down to the cul de sac a few times and then I guess it’s off to the exhaust shop

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