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Old 07-13-2022, 10:43 AM
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did you cut the hole for the speakers or is that from the vents removed?

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
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Old 07-13-2022, 12:01 PM
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Vents removed

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Old 07-18-2022, 07:36 PM
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If your weights are too light in the distributor you could have a similar problem...I mean the "bucking"...the "relatively high" vacuum might be advancing and retarding the timing at low engine speed causing the "bucking". Simple test...try heavier springs without changing anything else and see if the "bucking" changes.

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Old 07-13-2022, 06:44 PM
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Have you taken your dash bezel out to evaluate specifically what is wrong? Unless the shop cut your wiring up badly, which I think is doubtful for an A/C installation, I'd imagine it can be corrected fairly easily. Having recently done my own instrument cluster wiring, I've learned that it's not that complicated.

The Dakota Digital RTX line for GTO is the only aftermarket gauge setup that looks good (IMO), but at $1420, they ain't cheap. Personally, I'd fix what you have. And while it's a personal preference type of thing, I don't think the aux gauges require the kind of constant monitoring that would necessitate relocating that info to an aftermarket instrument cluster.

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Old 07-13-2022, 07:01 PM
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$1420 is insane - I’m sure install isn’t cheap either

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
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Old 07-13-2022, 08:21 PM
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I did all my wiring. Everything worked when I sent it. Now the speedometer cable was broken off in the spindle. I fished it out and its dead. The gas gauge I have trouble shot with M&H for about an hour and just cannot get it to stay still. It gives you a vague reading but driving it bounces all over hell and half of Georgia and if you pull the headlight switch it pegs past full. I have chased grounds, sending units, dead shorts, the only thing left is the gauge itself. I figured that I have to take the dash out and send those gauges off to be rebuilt which is down time because all the companies I called about it said about 6-8 weeks why not just do an upgrade that I could just swap with no dead time. I am driving the hell out of the car right now because it gets as good or better MPG than my Z71. It will be around Christmas before I can afford either so its really 6 of 1 half dozen of the other.

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Old 07-13-2022, 11:57 PM
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Who ran the A/C installation shop, some ex-girlfriend that you dumped?

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Old 07-14-2022, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon View Post
Who ran the A/C installation shop, some ex-girlfriend that you dumped?
This is one of the few areas I went cheap. He took forever and when I went to pick it up he had a bunch of 20 year olds working in his shop. He talked a good game though.

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Old 07-14-2022, 09:24 AM
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As indicated above, best route is to pull the dash bezel and see what’s going on. The issues you mentioned seem like they are related to bad ground(s) in some components. Are all factory ground straps in place?

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
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Old 07-15-2022, 03:38 AM
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I am going to put the RTX gauges in my car but with that being said with new expenses like more extensive braces for my daughter and moving up in dance classes level for my other daughter my progress is at a true halt for the first in 6 years. I just don’t have any disposable income anywhere. I am excited about the car and have the same enthusiasm as when I started but the blasting thru progress I was making is over. I am gonna be making improvements with the things I already have and with the things I can do like clean up and stuff but mainly I am gonna be focusing on driving the wheels off. I hope you guys will follow my build as it continues at a slower pace. This week I am gonna put down some more sound deadener and some other things I have. I will try to post upright pictures as I go

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Old 07-15-2022, 07:35 AM
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Bench seat tracks are unsavable. I have access to core buckets so when money allows I will be having them recovered and installed. Question??? Do I use 64 bucket covers to perfectly match the back or 65 covers for the cool embossed arrowhead.

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  #12  
Old 07-15-2022, 09:58 AM
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why can't you lock the seat in place somehow and leave it i hope no one else is driving your car and find another bench core, i sometimes have the same problem with my bench seat i'd weld it in place before i put buckets in #savethebenchseat

  #13  
Old 07-15-2022, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imposter View Post
why can't you lock the seat in place somehow and leave it i hope no one else is driving your car and find another bench core, i sometimes have the same problem with my bench seat i'd weld it in place before i put buckets in #savethebenchseat
I may keep the bench. My wife and I sit in the same position so I thought about just tack welding the track

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Old 07-15-2022, 06:23 PM
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Bench seat w/ a floor shifter is a great look.

I broke the fat end of a seat rail (end w/ bolt hole to the floor) off, and was able to tack weld it well enough w/ my Hobart flux-wire unit. And I suck at welding. Maybe you can save the seat rails. Bucket seat rail for this. The metal is thin - just have to go slow. Low power, etc.

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Old 07-17-2022, 09:38 AM
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I am just gonna position it where I need it and put a few spot welds on the track. I have reached a financial wall so I am doing the things I can that are free or that I already have the parts for and then I am gonna have to let it ride for a while.

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  #16  
Old 07-18-2022, 07:55 AM
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I see you have an ad to trade an intake - is this to put an RPM on your Tempest?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=860119

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
  #17  
Old 07-18-2022, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivera View Post
I see you have an ad to trade an intake - is this to put an RPM on your Tempest?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=860119
Yes, my tip in is not perfect and my engine builder feels this will cure it plus I am never gonna utilize that intakes full potential. My drivability is very good so I am not willing to sink any money in it but if someone wanted to trade I would.

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Old 07-18-2022, 03:31 PM
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Gotcha- what are symptoms of an imperfect tip in? Also, what are your cam specs?

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Will Rivera

'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
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Old 07-18-2022, 05:49 PM
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Its hard to explain but at low speed I find myself coasting a lot cause it likes to buck and I have never had that happen

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  #20  
Old 07-18-2022, 06:48 PM
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You don’t want your vacuum advance active at idle if that’s the case.

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