[64speed]

https://youtube.com/shorts/iCuPYjA5Q...WKLeut9EWflaVf


Here is the new sound. Replaced the turn downs with Flowmaster 2.5 tailpipes and hid the tips. Nice tome at idke, great sound at cruise, and just as loud as before when you may it.

[64speed]

Just dumped the double pumper for a Quadrajet built for my engine by Ray Klemm, Cliffs old partner. God what a night and day difference. I thought the Holley was good and this thing just blows it out of the water. Best move I’ve made recently.

[64speed]

Been a while so I thought I’d give an update. The only thing not finished in the interior is the rear quarter panels and headliner/sail panels. I have every part to finish and am still getting estimates of 2500 to get that done so it may be a while. The 3rd gear synchro in the TKO was bad out of the box but because of assembly time the warranty ran out before I could claim so I’m gonna have to pull it and fix it. Oil leaks are all but stopped. I have one left from the pan rail which I think is warped.. everything else is good. Had the underhood wiring cleaned up by a pro. It runs good. The 60919 cam is great but I do know it’s under utilizing my engine setup. Oh well upgraded one day.

[64speed]

Well its been a while since an update so I thought I would let you know. Going on 10 years I only have a few things left for it to be complete (bahahahah) most of which are interior related. I have to have my pinion angle adjusted because I have a very slight vibration and just eyeballing it it looks a little steep. I have adjustable UMI uppers. My factory radio was converted to Bluetooth for hands free calling and all that and of course the BlueTooth module lasted 3 years and died so I am currently looking at stereo options but I will be keeping the factory radio in the dash for appearances unless I find a really good hidden radio in which case I will use one of those block off plates. I have the dreaded synchro problem in 3rd that afflict some TKO's so I am gonna have my local transmission shop install their shift improvement kit which is supposed to address the grinding issue as well as make the shifting not as clunky. I had Cliffs old employee Ray Klemm build me a quadrajet for my engine and it performs flawlessy. It is amazing how much different the car runs, performs, and gets better gas mileage. I guess the lesson from the double pumper is be careful what you wish for. I drive it about 4-5 times a week so I have some rock chips and stuff so the initial shock of that has worn off. I wish someone had told me that level of paint is a nightmare to keep clean haha. I feel like I am constantly wiping something down. Other than those things I am enjoying it and it doesnt seem like its been ten years I have been working on this thing. As I finish it up I will post more pictures and info because a LOT of you guys have been very supportive and informative. If any of you have good stereo recommendations as to what youre doing I would like to hear them. I have to have my tunes.

[P@blo]

The fact these HR lifters are taking blocks out is concerning for the hobby. Makes me want to find a couple more blocks before the pool dries up...

Looked into the tool steel SFT lifters and they are pricey. Never heard of them but I guess that's what a Schubeck lifter is with a coated foot.

[Firebob]

Good on you for building something that others would've thrown away. Always nice to see something done that you've never seen before. I have to wonder about a 467 in a DD though. Sounds like it's going to be a handful.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Firebob

Good on you for building something that others would've thrown away. Always nice to see something done that you've never seen before. I have to wonder about a 467 in a DD though. Sounds like it's going to be a handful.

It’s gonna be a powerhouse but I have plenty of interstate and highways around me. I am not building it too radical. I don’t have the crank for the 455 so I might as well buy a stroker

[64speed]

One thing AMD did to me that I did not like was left out two body bushings and just handed them to me when I picked the car up with a picture of how they needed to be modified and said have at it. Apparently the body bushings under each door in the front were too tall and they couldnt get thread engagement. I contacted Ames and they said that shouldnt be and that all the bushings were the same but nonetheless I took AMD word for it. After consulting a local bodyshop and them telling me it would be at least 200 bucks if not more I called AMD back and asked them just what the hell was I supposed to do with these bushings, they took it off the frame they should put it back. Again they referred me to the picture and told me to just cut about a 1/4 of an inch of the top bushing and I would be good to go. I am terrified of body work because I know nothing about it. Anyway I got out a fresh box cutter and using painters tape I took about a quarter of and inch off both bushings. I went outside. Took everything loose but not off, slid the bushings in and bolted them down. Took less than 30 minutes. So thats done and I am proud of myself.

[1968GTO421]

I am sure you have seen of the the build threads on the forum from other members to get some ideas. One of my favorite build threads is about a GTO. The thread was started in 2013 and is almost finished. I've really enjoyed it over the years. Here's the link

http://www.gtoforum.com/f83/dans-69-restore-tale-53945/

[imposter]

nice project, nothing beats a post car, good luck

[64speed]

Is the parking brake cable mechanism supposed to have a spring on it or does it just spring back from the stretch of the cable

[n2ogpsj462]

Love 64s and it looks like your going to have a fun one however I would advise relocating your build thread to the 64-65 section especially if your reassembling and and will have many question regarding all the little pieces. Lots of smart and experienced people in the dedicated sections that don't venture over here often

[HWYSTR455]

Subscribing!

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[64speed]

Well I have stirred up a hornets nest about Maaco in the body shop section. Long story short all the estimates for paint and final prep are high. Like REALLY high. I only want a factory paint job and I only have a few minor dents left to pull and a tiny bit of rust so I went by Maaco. Talked to the manager for a long time, explained what I wanted and my concerns and he showed me a 77 Blazer they had just done a repaint for that looked fine to me. Everything is off the car as far as trim goes. He said the would take it to metal skim and block prime seal and paint base clear for around 6000 give or take since I had already removed all the body trim and moldings. I think I’m gonna do it. The manager was knowledgeable was understanding of my apprehension of a Maaco paint job etc. the paint will be PPG which he had the codes for. That will be the next big step.

[roy381]

Hi 64 I am one of the skeptical ones in the Maaco thread. My only advice as to getting it done at Maaco would be to get every detail you discussed with the manager on paper. If things go sour at least you have a written guarantee. You seem to be enjoying this project and after all is done you want to be able to look at the car with a smile of satisfaction not regret.
My first project was going to be a 67 Tempest that I was going to clone. It would have needed 10k plus in sheet metal. I decided to part ways with the Tempest and find a true gto as my project. After all was I figured if I was going to spend that kind of coin I wanted to have #'s matching car. But that's just me. My big mistakes have been when it came to paint and I lost time and money because of it. You know what you want as far a finish product just make sure the shop does and backs it up!

Best of luck with the Tempest!

[Cardo]

Subscribed

[64speed]

Took my car to Maaco for a full estimate today because I wanted to know how much to save and show the manager more than pictures. He said he saw no reason why it couldn’t be finished out for 6000 or less. Shot in base/clear with my exact specs on gloss % for the dash and all the extras I want. Paint will be PPG and he said after the strip it I will come down and mark anything I find and they will fix it. Weld in new metal where appropriate etc. I know a lot of people think I am foolish for even considering Maaco but I really can’t stomach the estimates I got and this car is going to be driven. I don’t want to fear a scratch on a paint job that cost 2 or 3 times the cost of my panel replacement

[JC455]

"It’s gonna take me a long time to save up the money to do my chrome and paint since this last batch of bodywork depleted my funds. In the meantime I have several things I’m gonna do and one of them is rebuild my front end. Anybody got any tips or techniques for doing the springs without the weight of the engine? I want to do as much as I can while everything is off the front end. The reason I am retired from the military and police so young is because of rheumatism and I can only do so much bending leaning and stooping before I start hurting."


Get an INTERNAL spring compressor- there is only one screw for this tool; the two screw, twin hook compressors are for external strut springs- and unthread the hook. Then remove the lower hook (the one that slide along the screw shaft). Get a washer that the screw shaft will fit through. put some grease on the washer, then slip the screw shaft through the washer and into the UPPER shock mount from above- it is now hanging down into the cavity where the coil spring resides.
Thread the first hook back onto the screw shaft, then seat the coil spring in the upper helix mount of the frame. Tighten the compressor enough to hold the spring up to the frame.
hang the lower control arm from its frame mounts, then gauge where the lower spring pigtail needs to be so it lines up with the pocket in the lower control arm (the end of the spring needs to cover one hole, but not the next hole), then adjust the spring so the pigtail falls into this location.
Tight then spring (not a bad idea to put a cable or chain through it- just in case), then move the lower control arm into place with a floor jack.
Assemble the control arms, spindle, and balljoints, then loosen the spring compressor.
Torque the balljoints and cotter pin them in place.
After the weight of the vehicle is loading the control arms, torque them.... Or use Global West Del-A-Lum bushing and just tighten everything up when you install the springs.

[64speed]

I have the global West knockoffs which look to be really quality pieces. I have tall ball joints upper and lower and factory ac delco shocks and springs. I am anxious to see if the back comes down any once the back glass bumper and gas tank at installed cause right now it’s sitting level and high with no weight on the front end. All I know is those hotchkiss springs rode like a buggy. If I have to lower the car after I get the engine in I will use UMI cause they have a set that takes into account for aluminum heads and intake. Plus isn’t the tall ball joint supposed to give you a half an inch drop too?

[JC455]

Something was definitely off on your Hotchkis spring deal-- I ALWAYS run them on street driven cars, and, to me, their ride is smooth, taught, and controlled.
I have Hotchkis in my 74 Formula, and already put them in the rear of my 64 Tempest. I'm getting them for the front of the Tempest too, but I have to wait until I get the control arms situated- If I use a lower with a spring pocket, that may lower the car an additional inch, so I'd only need 1" drop vs. 2" like I have in the rear.
I previously had Hotchkis springs in my 68 LeMans, and that thing rode and handled fantastically!