[MD79TA]

I'm about to replace my 68 gto heater core. Just thought I would aska few questions. I know this is a PIA project but has anyone done this recently? Any thing that can make it go smoothly? Tricks? I was told best to remove inner and outer.fender? Also I see some list generic core for ac and non ac and some list separate?has anyone done an AC car and are they different from non AC car. Next is quality. Who makes and sells a good core as I want to do this once. I have seen prices from 26 dollars up. Any help would be great. I haves looked at summit, napa, advance and rock auto. Maybe best to go with Ames .Doug

[68ragtop]

I think if you want an original copper unit, you will need to go through our host, or there is an online seller called A bodies that has them. Even though places like Rock auto show copper on their pictures, they are all aluminized now. I tired ordering a non-A/C core for my car with no success. My plan is to Get one from out Host (Ames) as soon as I have my ducks in a row for all the parts I currently need. If you don't care what its made out of, then you should be able to get one just about anywhere that will fit.

[MD79TA]

I am buying mine this week and installing . I have different prices from 100 dollars from Ames( I have bought most of my parts from them) to 40 dollars from most local and mail order auto part stores. I am not sure if any are copper but I don't want to waste 60 dollars or more if they are all the same . Heat will be used but not often and it is a convertible . I don't mind spending money if it's a higher quality part, , but not sure if it matters on where this part is bought. Looks like all are made over seas but what isn't . Has anyone found one better than others? I will test for leaks before installing .Doug

[68ragtop]

It seems most out there are now aluminum, so if your ok with that you should be able to buy one of the $40 range ones from your LPS. however I haven't heard anything good or bad about them. Many of the selling companies on line & in the local stores show images of the oe copper cores, but they are indeed aluminum. The restoration companies I believe still stock the copper style, but as you noted they are twice the money. We just missed the boat as far as stopping at a local NAPA & getting a $50 copper heater core.

Hopefully somebody will jump in here & give you some feedback on what out there now.

[hotcharity95]

I just did this a few months ago. You do not need to remove the fender inner or outer if you are OK with cutting off the bottom right corner bolt on the heater box on the inside. I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. There are five bolts total, and the remaining 4 hold the box in place just fine. It was still about a 2-3 hour job but not too bad; I just took my time and now my heat is kickin'. I did find some good info on this site and here: http://www.gtoforum.com/

[68ragtop]

hotcharity95, Currious who's core did you go with? aluminum or copper?

[hotcharity95]

Aluminum, I couldn't find a copper one. It was 40 bucks I think.

[MD79TA]

Decided to order today from Ames . I looked at NAPA and was told they have not sold copper for a few years . (He has been there five yrs and not seen copper) All the other stores sold specta brand that I'm sure work but look cheaply made. After talking to sales rep at AMES she told me it is copper and they have had very few problem. They are shipping to me UPS so I will have tomorrow . ( 95 dollars plus shipping and I could have bought from LPS for 45 plus tax). I will send pictures. Doug

[dataway]

Considering what a pain it can be to replace or service those cores .... I'd lean towards the copper. Not saying aluminum is going to fail, but when something is a pain to fix, sometimes it's better to go with the best quality you can while you have it apart.

[68ragtop]

Also, I am 99% sure all of the spectra units are aluminum, even though their reference pictures show copper, They are not.
You did the right thing imo

[MD79TA]

Yes spectra are aluminum and I'm told the one Ames is selling has the copper tanks. I will have it in my hands to show any interestested tomorrow . I agree if quality is better it's worth the extra money. As we know this is a PIA removal and installation,. This is also a factoryv air car. Doug

[dataway]

Nice pictures of the new core would be a bonus

[68ragtop]

This was one of the other few places I found that had copper cores. But, they only sell on eBay. not saying thats necessarily a bad thing.... I also will be interested to hear a review on the Ames unit as I have a two page list of parts to order & a heater core is on that long list. So I would be ordering the same one.

http://abodies.com

[Greg Reid]

Can't you take one of these to an old school radiator shop and get it repaired?
I had my radiator repaired a few months ago. I took it in in the morning and it was ready at lunch.

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Can't you take one of these to an old school radiator shop and get it repaired?
I had my radiator repaired a few months ago. I took it in in the morning and it was ready at lunch.

We have an old school radiator shop here in town. I did call them & they phone quoted $200.
Seemed a little on the expensive side, but I need to remember its not 1985 anymore.
Hard to do anything labor related for under a couple hundies.
Just get spoiled being able to replace parts at the price points we are able to.

[Greg Reid]

Wow...$200, that's steep.. I think I paid about $85 for my radiator and that was to replace the tranny-cooler tank line fittings. Of course, they did the usual boil, check for leaks, paint.

[Bobalong]

Bought my core from A bodies, copper for sure. Did my AC 70 GTO this winter.

That was the most painful thing I ever did.

It isn't that hard to remove the inner fender, jack it up, remove the tire
remove the bolts, then massage the fender out. 30 minutes total.

This allows removal of the hidden nut holding the lower corner of the inside fiberglass shell in place.
Remove hoses from the core, mine were relatively new so I tied them up high so the coolant didn't leak everywhere.
otherwise drain some coolant from the radiator.

Recommend a lube to make the nut come off easily, last thing you want to do is spin the threaded
bolt molded in the fiberglass.

Remove the glove box door and shell, you;ll need the access. Remove the AC ductwork. Probably need to remove
any aftermarket gauges hanging below the dash. (swing them out of the way)

In my case the 8 track had to be removed from the console..

Remove vac hoses and control cables from fiberglass shell.

Put a towel down on your carpet, when the unit is removed you'll have
some spillage from the core.

Last . . . . .get a wooden broom handle and rubber mallet , you'll have to whack those bolts thru the
firewall from the engine side to get the unit to break free. 50 years stuck to the inner firewall with a rubber gasket
is a LONG time, mine didn't give up the ship easily.

I assume my 70 and your 68 are very similar.

I have an easy hour plus in cleaning the housing once I removed the core from it.
Lot of stuff finds it's way down the defroster into that unit. Looked like new when I reassembled it.

I did this replacement over a period of a couple of weeks, few hours at a time. A lot of patience,
time and attention to detail. Good time to check your blower motor if it has any issues.

Also the insulation above the shell . . . . .my was almost toast / dust,
I covered it with foil tape, not duct tape because that will disintegrate in a few years, but same size shiny metal tape. Will last for many years.
I wasn't in the mood for a total dash disassembly to replace the insulation..

Hope this helps, your results may vary.

[68ragtop]

To be honest, I don't even know if mine leaks, but its 50 years old, so no way putting it in ever crossed my mind. Well, until writing this. but I am still not doing it....

[MD79TA]

I wanted to send pictures of heater core bought form Ames and arrived today as promised . Also from time I ordered Monday to in my hands Tuesday just 30 hours. Not bad . Thank you Ames and UPS. This is the copper unit that is getting more difficult to locate. Installation tomorrow or Thursday wish us luck. Doug

[MD79TA]

Heater core made by TSM . Not sure if you can buy direct but that is the one from Ames.
Specifications
Connection Inlet: 5/8
Connection Outlet: 3/4
Construction: Brass Tank/Copper Core
Core Size: 9 1/2 x 6 3/8 x 2

Looks like excellent quality . Doug