[adynes]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by adynes

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by Squidward

The ECU powers on the pump for 3-4 seconds with key on prior to cranking, and can be heard running for a few seconds after the engine dies. So electrically it is behaving as expected...

...When the pump is running, I hear a fountain of fuel recirculating in the tank.

Oops, just read back through the thread. Missed this the first time.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

I was thinking that was just to disable the pump PWM function while the engine was running, not to make the pump run full time while the key was on but engine off...

[JLMounce]

The older systems like mine you disable PWM completely and it runs full voltage to the pump at all times. The newer systems you can't disable PWM, you just set it sufficiently high that you are basically always running the pump.

[TedRamAirII]

Did YOU install the pump, etc? Or just bolt it in? If you hear splashing in the tank, perhaps there is a issue between the pump and the pipe going to the regulator. I would be pulling that tank and checking the fuel pump plumbing connections inside the tank.

[FrankieT/A]

I use the Tanks Inc. tank and their PA-6 pump plumbed with 1/2" line to the FITech with 3/8" return, no additional any thing and mine runs fine. The pump itself puts out 90lbs. to the throttle body as measured with my Auto Meter gauge. Pressure on the return side is 58 lbs. exactly. No issues even when I dial down PWM.

[Squidward]

Ted, I installed the pump.

I put together some fuel line so I could check pump output to a gas can and half split between pump and regulator. Wife wanted pizza for dinner, so I ran out of time before work. We'll see how it goes in the morning. I might end up going to bed smelling like a Chevron station.

I'm guessing it should be obvious if the pump is working if it is wired with straight 12v, and discharging with no head into a 5 gallon gas can. It should be a pretty strong blast of fuel. If the pump is good, then I return the tanks inc regulator. Shame... it seemed like a nice piece for the money. I would then explore other plumbing options. I really liked the idea of a single fuel supply line running to the engine bay, but it has to be functional.

I'm hoping I didn't mess up the install and have the pump discharge tube come loose, or the suction screen somehow clog the pump inlet. Worst case I drop the tank again.

[JLMounce]

It's easy to mix up if you're multi-tasking a bit (ask me how I know) but make sure your feed line is attached to the pump outlet and the return to the return outlet on the pump module. I did this and some of the symptoms you are experiencing happened. I knew right away what I had done.

FWIW I don't hear fuel circulating in my tanks inc tank during operation. I however did hear what sounded like a rushing river in the tank when the lines were installed incorrectly.

[TedRamAirII]

Good Deal Squid. You may need to check your dead head pressure, just to verify the pump will indeed make enough pressure to overcome the regulator. Just for a short time, like 5 seconds, and it should hold that pressure after you take power away, maybe at least a minute, as long as you dont lose it right after you take power away. If you do lose pressure immediately, its going somewhere??? hose split? check valve stuck open? the splashing in the tank is what worries me.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Purging air @ the point of use seems the first logical step, as well as full power to the pump secondly.
Pinching of the return line completely tells you what the pump is capable of, pump curve per say.

So the handheld unit has a regulated fuel pressure reading?
System has a FP sensor?...Assuming it must if it has PWM capabilities for control of the pump.

Hope you get it figured out, seems your in good hands with those here that have done.... I haven't used one of those systems myself. Only factory deals and hi-er pressure carb systems.

Personally I would prefer a fuel return line from the point of use for multiple reasons.

On a safety note:
In later stages once problems are corrected, an inertia switch and/or fuel flow cutout with engine off are prudent.

I watched a FI 4cyl stock car race fire, where a teen was needlessly burn't very badly, from a switch/relay wired electric hi pressure pump fuel pump. The fire kept getting bigger instead of smaller. They'd put it out and it would reignite. Ultimately dragged to the infield and let burn out....without driver inside.
Be safe!

[Squidward]

Progress. I disconnected the inlet to the regulator and put a few feet worth of hose on the pump outlet to a 5 gal gas can. Flow is pathetic. This is with full 12v jumpered to the pump. If this was the flow out of my bathroom sink I would fire the maintenance guy.

Looks like tank/pump are coming out.

[Jack P.]

Did you measure 12v at the pump? running to small a wire will get you less than 12v at pump.

[adynes]

Bad ground maybe? Do you have a good tank vent?

[Squidward]

There is no fuel cutoff switch. But the beauty of running the pump off the ecu with pwm is that it functions on a combination of sensed rpm and the TPS signal. If the engine stops running, there is no rpm, and the fuel pump power goes away.

If I haven't said it before, thanks for all of the input and suggestions. Even though I could probably slug through this solo, I really enjoy the sharing of ideas and experience. It especially becomes helpful as an archive of learning events for the next guy who plows through a similar situation. The sense of community is one of the things I enjoy.

Ok, time to put away the hippie bongos and get back to being grumpy old middle aged white guy.

[Squidward]

Tank dropped, pump out. I think the picture says it all. The pump discharge nipple is broke off. I will see what I can do with Summit and/or Fitech.

I'm surprised it got any flow at all.

[johnta1]

That explains a lot!

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Wow, what a piece of crap assembly, I've never seen a worm gear band clamp used on an in tank pump.
The're not intended to wind down that small.

[JLMounce]

Every in tank pump module I’ve dealt with has worm gear clamps. All of the plumbing is interference fit, so it’s just a bit of redundancy. I don’t have the FiTech pump but instead the tanks inc gpa 4 module. I’ve got a gpa 2 in my wife’s Chevelle, very similar design.

At any rate I would be blaming the clamp here since it’s clear the outlet port separated from the pump body itself.

[Squidward]

Jason, what kind of tubing/hose did your pa4 use? Was it a flexible hose? This tubing was fairly rigid, like nylon, and might have snapped when putting the pump in. The directions required using a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the hose before pushing it on, and the clamping it.

I might substitute some more flexible submersible hose.