[Pete D]

Finally got the car back to gather and need to get the exhaust reconnected.

The set of headers I have are on their last legs and I am considering replacing them.

Way too much info on the net, can't seem to sift through it all.

Lots of cost and every set I looked at needed some tweeking to fit.

This is for a '65 GTO. JAYzuz pie-eyed Christ what a pain headers are in this car.

What are people running now? Anyone running Ram Air repros? Any real diff in performance? The repros are looking pretty good for fitment and durability, but headers just look good. Noise not an issue, running a radio delete plate. ;-)

I need reqs for a 0.060 over 421 with ported 670 heads, 1:1.65 roller rockers, Edelbrock performer RPM with a Cliff's recipe Qjet. Tremec TKO 0.6 OD with a 3:55 rear Saf-T-Trak gear set.

This is intended to be an occasional weekly ride, maybe some 1/8 mile stuff. VERY traction limited. :-)

[Tom Vaught]

If you are very traction limited I would just go with the Ram Air cast iron 1967 manifolds and a good down pipe system and call it good.

Tom V.

[tom s]

Tom I agree,with a true street car that does not go to the track more than a couple times a year the RA manifolds are the way to go.They will last longer than the driver of the car.I have them on my bird with a 455 and a TKO and am setting it of for a R&L turn track day car.Tom

[Sprocket]

I agree with above two responses, but I did have zero problem installing Hooker Super Comps in my '65 GTO. It was a manual transmission d-port engine.

[steve25]

If you spent money on porting work that was more then just a bowl blend job, then I would run headers!
If you have poor traction while running Exh Manifolds then having the same condition with headers is meaningless, but at least your mph at the track will be higher!

[Cliff R]

I'm not a fan of headers on a daily driver or vehicle that's mostly street driven with little track time.

Despite being much heavier and not flowing quite as well cast iron manifolds have many advantages over tube type headers.

Headers put a LOT of heat into the engine compartment and "cook" the starter causing difficult hot restarts and early starter failures.

They also leak at the flanges and the collectors, sooner or later. Buying really expensive and well made headers help that situation as they have much thicker flanges, but they are still difficult to keep sealed up compared to cast iron manifolds.

With a full exhaust system (well made with pipe pipes and mandrel bends, X or H used) you really woln't see a huge loss in power or vehicle performance with the manifolds compared to headers. That statement holds true for lower power levels but if your engine is well over 500hp and "max effort" a really good set of headers should be part of the recipe.........Cliff

[The Champ]

I went with the 2.5" Ram Air manifolds and a complete 2.5" dual exhaust system with X-over and Dynomax mufflers.

Did this to go with my street driven 462. I'm very happy with it.

[71 Goatman]

Just made a solid 500hp on the dyno with a set of 2.50 Ram Air exhaust manifolds, in the car it has a mandrel bent 2.50 Pypes system behind it with Dynamax mufflers, love it will never go back to headers for the street

[unclescratch]

I have Hooker Comp (1-5/8) headers on my '65, d-port, GTO w/Dynomax long, turbo mufflers and 2-1/2-inch tailpipes. For sure, installing drivers' side tubes and starter is a PITA. I never have had headers leak, though. System is quiet. This works for me.

[Gary H]

I'd go with Doug's headers. I've put on many sets and they fit like a glove.