[68ragtop]

Can you guys tell me what are the acceptable colors for the stator core in the 68 Alternators? I painted mine black years back when I had it apart. I am re-doing it now & I see them burgundy, gold, etc. Just talking about that reveal between the case halves. Looks like mine was a dark red (maybe) But, I have no idea if its even an original coating, or from a rebuild exchange program years ago.

Thanks!

[stellar]

I know 63 -67 are black. Not sure about 68, but I think they are black. I think 69 they changed to carmel. I wouldn't be to concerned about it as I heard even corvette NCRS judges aren't sure. If they don't know nobody does.

[68bird400HO]

I have been collecting pictures of original untouched units when I see them. I have one of a very low mile 72 and it looks black. I also have pictures of an NOS 10DN unit that is black as well. There could have been several suppliers however since I have seen them in the other colors you mentioned. I just don't know if those are rebuilt or original.

[dataway]

I just installed the components from a new alternator in a 68 case with the correct date code. Here is a pic of the stator that came out of the 68. It looks like rust, but it's actually a gold/reddish tone transparent coating, that is peeling off in many places. My guess is it was originally almost clear and heat has discolored it. The unit appeared original and unrebuilt, case had the proper date code and Delco markings.
Coating on the stator actually looked very similar to the coating on the "new" rebuilt unit I got parts from.

[68bird400HO]

Thats the rotor, not the stator.

[dataway]

Hehehe .. oh yeah, sorry about that

Now I know what he's talking about .... on this 68 alternator it appeared to just be old, slightly rusty, bare metal. But of course it probably sat on a garage floor for 40 years.

[dataway]

Just re-zinc'ed the original alternator pulley and fan. Turned out pretty nice, just needs a tad more brushing up.

If anyone wants to do it, I found it's possible to buy a new, or rebuilt alternator for a 68 and then swap all the parts into your original cases. Rotor, stator, bearings, brushes, diodes etc. all swap over no problem. Case diodes, condenser and bearings have to be pressed out. I used a small press, could probably be done in a vise. Front bearing is different, a modern sealed type, but fits perfectly, rear bearing is very similar but has a built in seal so the separate seal is not needed. The plugs and terminals have a slightly different scheme for insulation, but it doesn't show on the outside, or old terminals can be reused if desired.
When I get the pulley and fan installed I'll take it down to NAPA and have them test it. Considering a new rebuilt alternator is only around $50-60, it seems like a good way to end up with a rebuild unit with the proper dated cases. Well, assuming it tests ok.
Used the old fan and pulley because the new types are noticeably different.

[dataway]

Pic of the restored alternator with re-zinc'ed pulley and fan.

[stellar]

Did you do the zinc plating yourself or did you send it out?

[PurelyGTO68]

Did your original diodes have date codes? My alternator was missing so I found a restored unit online. Advertised with date coded diodes....didnt even know that was a thing. I bought it anyway since it was better than what I had (nothing).

Not a big fan of the finish on the case of my unit but maybe it will look better when it's on the car?



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[dataway]

No I didn't know date coded diodes were a thing And .... I don't want to know that
The codes, if any, on the old diodes was long gone anyway. That finish (glass bead) should caulk up a bit with use and look fine I would think.

Yes I zinc plated the parts myself, pretty easy really. About $120 worth of stuff, including the DC power supply and you can do it yourself.

Simple formula using:
Zinc Sulfate
Vinegar
Epsom salts
Water
Glucose (clear Karo syrup)
And a variable DC power supply you can get on ebay (along with the zinc sulfate).

After you get the stuff mixed up and set up your plastic container for the bath, a few wires with alligator clips, about 30 minutes and you can have a plated part.

I prep the parts by cleaning them well, bead/sand blasting, a dip/soak in Muriatic acid (Home Depot .... be careful with this stuff) to burn off any old zinc, takes about 30 seconds (don't breath the fumes). Rinse in water, hook it up to the wires in the bath and wait 10-15 minutes.

Not rocket science, and you'll get the hang of it by watching it plate.

I started a thread on it a while back in the Members helping Members topic.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=745487

More than happy to help anyone that needs some advice.

It's really kind of fun. Get advanced and you can "chromate" the parts and get that gold iridescent finish seen on carb parts, but that can be a bit daunting, as it involves Hexa-chromate which is a bit toxic ... also available on ebay.

Once you have it down, you can mix up a batch of zinc bath and be plating parts in no time. I did a pair of cross member mounts a few years ago .... been sitting on some cinder blocks in my shop for a couple of years now .... not a sign of rust.

[68ragtop]

Thats awesome! both the restored alternator & Data's home brew zinc'ing

Wouldn't it just be easier though for me to send my parts to you data?

Just kidding of course. I have the same problem though. Had a car guy who owned a plating company & did all my parts for me for a couple vehicles in the past. He recently retired & sold the business. They no longer do car parts. too small, & too much hassle it would appear.

For what its worth, I found a paint, that looks so crazy close to clear cad for parts that can't be dunked & don't need the best protection. I did a few parts like the base on my original horn/buzzer relay & dual port vacuum advance module.

[dataway]

Please divulge the details on the Cad clear paint