[TAQuest]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/04h8...r_Township,_MI

[TAQuest]

Switched out the carb with one I know works good. No change at all. Earlier I verified that the fuel is being delivered to the carb at 5 psi under a load(see video)
That takes a fuel delivery problem off the list. Check out the above video and let me know what you think is wrong. Thanks.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

....Ignition

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

....Ignition

Which part? It has a 50K HEI. I don't have a spare other than the one on my 69 and don't want to take it off. I can switch cap and coil and modulator. What's your theory?

[TAQuest]

Recap on ignition;

Tried timing every which way. It's set where it runs the best.

Someone suggested that maybe the HEI wasn't getting enough juice. So I swapped in a brand new battery and hotwired the HEI straight to the battery, no change.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Change the dizzy.... or module cap rotor coil harness capacitor ....all from a known good unit!
A meter would of sufficed to check voltage
Have you disconnected tach and test drive yet?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Module malfunction

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Have you disconnected tach and test drive yet?

Yes. I did that when I swapped the battery and hotwired the HEI. Covered all the bases on that.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Module malfunction

Alright.
First I take the dirty plow truck carb off and re install the pretty new one.
Then I will swap the cap and coil. Try that.
Then I will swap the module and try that.
All that will be left on the distributor after that is the pick up and possible run out.

[ta man]

It takes forever to load those videos. You need to take your revs up higher to see if there is a fuel pressure issue.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

In high gear, was you getting on and off the throttle or was it the engine sounding like it was cutting off and on?
Tach needle wasn't jumping around, like you normally see when ignition malfunctions.

Was that pedal to the metal?
Lot of carburetor noise for what was happening in the video. Like the engine is way down on power if you was standing on it.
With the high cranking compression and small cam...I'd expect tire frying on gear shifts. Even at low RPM's.

Clay

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by ta man

You need to take your revs up higher to see if there is a fuel pressure issue.

RPM's is the problem or a symptom. Engine wont rev any higher. Almost like it has a rev limiter set at 3,000 RPM's.

Clay

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by ta man

It takes forever to load those videos. You need to take your revs up higher to see if there is a fuel pressure issue.

The fuel pressure video takes 3 minutes to load because I covered all the bases. The harder I drove it the steadier it stayed a 5 psi. The fuel pressure is just right for these carbs. When it cuts out the fuel pressure is a solid 5.
I make sure that each thing/test is covered completely so I don't have to wonder about that anymore.
The test drive video with the tach showing only took me just over a minute to download on my computer from the link here.
Thanks for your time.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

RPM's is the problem or a symptom. Engine wont rev any higher. Almost like it has a rev limiter set at 3,000 RPM's.

Clay

Exactly! Acts like it's at 5500K when it's at 3200K.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

In high gear, was you getting on and off the throttle or was it the engine sounding like it was cutting off and on?
Tach needle wasn't jumping around, like you normally see when ignition malfunctions.

Was that pedal to the metal?
Lot of carburetor noise for what was happening in the video. Like the engine is way down on power if you was standing on it.
With the high cranking compression and small cam...I'd expect tire frying on gear shifts. Even at low RPM's.

Clay

I was getting on and off the throttle. Trying to push it higher. Showing where the 'end' is.
Pedal to the metal.
I set the rear up for high speed, 3:36 gears. Auburn posi. Factory traction bars. Good weight transfer. She hooks. Not much spin. I can dump the clutch and fry them. But that would just be showing off. Don't need that right now.
I think the main reason it sounds down on power is a lot of where it would be pulling is past where it quits. I lose everything over 3200. Have to shift too soon.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Alright.
First I take the dirty plow truck carb off and re install the pretty new one.
Then I will swap the cap and coil. Try that.
Then I will swap the module and try that.
All that will be left on the distributor after that is the pick up and possible run out.

....Rotor also with cap swap

....Harness and capacitor with module and harness

Or do it all and work backwards to isolate and avoid damaging another electrical
component

Tach disconnection is easy, you may want to do first


You really have no need to shift gears when making a power run test.

HTH
Luke

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

......Next check I would do if not remediate... timing cover off, cam may be way advanced.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

....Rotor also with cap swap

....Harness and capacitor with module and harness

Or do it all and work backwards to isolate and avoid damaging another electrical
component

Tach disconnection is easy, you may want to do first


You really have no need to shift gears when making a power run test.

HTH
Luke

Already did tach disconnect when I hotwired the HEI way back in this thread.
Thanks.
Noted on the shifting.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

......Next check I would do if not remediate... timing cover off, cam may be way advanced.

Would it run good up to 3200 if the cam was way advanced?
Thanks.

[TAQuest]

Not the cap and coil.