[grivera]

Originally Posted by Sun Tuned

I'd pull both valve covers and just for the hell of it take a pull handle and extension and a socket and hand turn that thing over and verify the firing order is what the cam is doing. Just for the hell of it.

I think Paul mentioned before - no way it would have performed so well on the dyno if it had a 4/7 swap

[64speed]

All this going back and forth and do this and do that has got to be confusing. 2000 for Dyno time. No way I would have paid that. For 2000 Paul should have flown to his location and isolated the issue himself not let every swinging dick with a keyboard take a stab at it. I have done business with Paul and he has never done me wrong but no matter how you look at this it has now turned to bad business and a reputation thing. One screw up erases a thousand perfect builds. Nobody remembers that time you ran tens with an 068 cam when your last build had a rod hanging out the block cause it wasn’t sized right. Just my honest opinion

[Va68goat]

krisr,
I believe Paul used the Ram Air manifolds that were on the motor. The pictures that I have of my motor on the dyno, there were no mufflers hooked up to the exhaust.

TedRamAirII,
It does knock when the motor is starting with plugs and also when it's running. We have beeen getting signatures at the distributor. Could be the lower end of the motor and the noise is traveling up to the distributor area.

Sun Tuned,
Cap and coil has been the same. We did switch out the distributor and plug wires and the knocking was still present.

gtospieg,
Yeah...that was disappointing. There is nothing left for me or my friends to do. We now have over 120 hours of diagnosing this motor.

64speed,
I don't want to even go down the path of $2,000 for dyno time. No way Paul was charged for that, though he told to me through a text that he was. (I have a copy of that text). I tried numerous times to get Paul to Virginia and even offered to pay for his plane ticket and even stay at my house. He's washed his hands of this motor and as I said before, people are watching that. I sent him a text a couple of days ago and told him we need to have a conversation but he doesn't want to confront this. One way or another...he will confront it. He could walk away with his head up if he were to fly to Virginia and fix this problem. It's not too late for Paul to make this right. I'm pretty reasonable but with him ignoring me.....of course I'm going to be harsh on him!

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

krisr,
I believe Paul used the Ram Air manifolds that were on the motor. The pictures that I have of my motor on the dyno, there were no mufflers hooked up to the exhaust.

TedRamAirII,
It does knock when the motor is starting with plugs and also when it's running. We have been getting signatures at the distributor. Could be the lower end of the motor and the noise is traveling up to the distributor area.

No way the engine was run on dyno room with "open" manifolds - it would have to been vented outside.

In response to Ted - did you intend to say knocking with plugs out?

Time to cut open and inspect oil filter - this will let you know if it's a bottom end issue such as bearings

Paul - Is there a video of engine idling in AZ? Seems this would help determine if it's an install issue.

[Va68goat]

grivera,
We changed the oil and filter yesterday as well. Nothing in the pan but that oil was not on the dyno. I added the oil when the motor got here. Paul said he checked out the oil filter that was on the dyno and it was good.

We did a compression test yesterday as well but before I post that, we want to verify with another gauge. The results were low but again, I don't want to post inaccurate information.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by grivera

No way the engine was run on dyno room with "open" manifolds - it would have to been vented outside.

In response to Ted - did you intend to say knocking with plugs out?

Time to cut open and inspect oil filter - this will let you know if it's a bottom end issue such as bearings

Paul - Is there a video of engine idling in AZ? Seems this would help determine if it's an install issue.

I dont think I ever heard the engine crank for any extended time, with plugs in. I listened when it was cranking, looking at the dist gear, I didnt think the plugs were installed? seemed too even and easy cranking? that's what I thought anyhow.

[ponchjoe]

Joe, at this point if it is tuned properly, has good oil pressure and temp numbers I’d put the hood on it and drive it for awhile to break everything in. Why not, that GOAT needs to eat!
I will say this kind of thing can drive a guy crazy, keep your head up and go drive your car and enjoy it. If it breaks, fix it locally and move on.
Best wishes.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Cap and Coil should be swapped just for due diligence!

[455GRIN]

No way, don't run that motor it has issues. Sad you were given a $2700 invoice (I guess that hand written list on a napkin was an invoice?) after the motor was sent back. If you had known that you would have been billed again then you would have been better off sending it to someone you can look in the eye and resolve the issue.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

Cap and Coil should be swapped just for due diligence!

I think Mike R (HWYSTR455) tried a different coil during a different testing session- Mike ? Also, Joe used a different dizzy/wires and posted the video.

Originally Posted by 455GRIN

No way, don't run that motor it has issues.

This is why the oil filter needs to be dissected - at this point if it's eating itself it will be immediately evident

[455GRIN]

Agree cut oil filter open. Almost sounds like cam lobe going flat. Catch it now by looking inside filter.
Frustrating.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by grivera

No way the engine was run on dyno room with "open" manifolds - it would have to been vented outside.

In the dyno video it appears the engine had short head pipes ONLY on the exhaust manifolds. Engine would have been way too loud to hear the TAP TAP TAP.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiSatCtuA3U

Normal engine noise drowns out the TAP TAP TAP now (with closed exhaust) at engine speeds above idle.

If Jeff and Joe are still talking...Joe needs to get Jeff to ask Paul about rod little end to counter weight clearance. Joe got a sarcastic "LOL never heard of it" when he asked Paul.

Clay

[HoneyHush]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fktTQ3l5Cn0

I was thinking flat cam as well after the the distributor change with the low cylinder pressure and the engine ready to shake out of the bay. Pull the valve covers and watch the rockers?

[Riku]

Va68goat,
on your post #617 you said: (quote)”The valley pan leak is fixed!”
Does this mean that intake manifold, valley pan, rocker covers were off and re-installed after the last dyno session?
Just thinking what has changed after dyno, what else has been off?

[tom s]

Its a hyd roller cam!Never seen one go flat?Tom

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by tom s

Its a hyd roller cam!Never seen one go flat?Tom

I guess it's possible but I've never seen one do it, not even OE hydraulic roller cams.

[HoneyHush]

Well that Surburban is a hydraulic roller cam as well...just saying. I learn new things everyday that I wouldn’t have expected. It may not be the problem but it is worth the hour to check it. I’ve had my share of brand new parts that were junk ...could be a soft core.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

I guess it's possible but I've never seen one do it, not even OE hydraulic roller cams.

Maybe you should talk to some Dealer Techs. Lot of Dodge roller issues. https://hemimdslifters.com/

[grivera]

Picture of Joe’s cam/lifters. Not sure when it was photographed- Joe?

[jonmachota78]

I've been thinking since the very beginning this sounds like a bad lifter. I know the lifters have been replaced but that doesn't mean you don't have another bad lifter. It has happened to me!