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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Body filler in Rally IIs ?
finally getting after a couple of things I have been putting off.
Just got this set of Rally IIs aluminum oxide blasted and ready for paint. What's a good filler to use on these nicks?
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. dstryr, since 1986 . |
#2
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nice lug nut holes !!! ..............
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#3
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I would try fiberglass or one of the better filler's. Also file down the high spots. But I am no expert,just a trial and error (a lot) guy..
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#4
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J-B Weld or other two part epoxy. Not real easy to sand to shape, but durable.
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#5
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I thought I could knock down the high spots with a die grinder and carbide burr. I have another set of wheels I might practice on since I do have both JB Weld and epoxy in the garage already.
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. dstryr, since 1986 . |
#6
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i have had great luck with a product called Pig Putty. Actually patched up my buddys exhaust muffler on a 73 Suzuki 350?....something or other lol really turned out well at least to the point it would run. that muffler was roached out!
https://www.newpig.com/repair-putty/...SAAEgKhSvD_BwE its been a few years and I know it wasn't called new pig putty..
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#7
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I would also hand file the high spots. Die grinders can get away from ya and make a bigger mess.
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#8
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Like noted above ...file down what you can ....and any body filler you have on the shelf will do just fine.
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#9
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Funny, when I see Rally II's for sale at swap meets, that's the first thing I look at. A lot of Rally II lug nut holes are damaged from over torquing. Need to be really careful when buying used Rally II's.
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You got the teeth of the hydra upon you. Bang A Gong, T-Rex |
#10
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Most lug nuts are torqued properly 1 time in their life, when the car is produced new. A typical air impact gun will tighten lug nuts to DOUBLE the torque spec. with typical 100-125 lb. line pressure. The torsion torque sticks most shops use now are only marginally better. It all depends on the line pressure/single or double hammer style air tools. I deal with hundreds of wheel lug nuts every month. I tighten every one to specs. with an electronic torque wrench. Approximately 90% of the lug nuts I remove are over-tightened to grossly over-tightened. So after 50 years, finding Rally wheels with good lug nut registers is probably rare indeed.
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#11
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My guess is these wheels are original to the car. There is no trim ring rash on them and the dates are in line for the car’s production time. You should have seen the tires I just took off 3 of these wheels, mid 70’s skinny radials with zero tread. They look like they were driven until bald and then then the car was parked.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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. dstryr, since 1986 . |
#12
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Update, the wheels turned out pretty good but I'm not sure I like the color of the Eastwood Charcoal Gray. Maybe because all my wheels are faded and these are dark. Bias ply tires scream 'original' like nothing else. They ride nice too though I did notice they seem pretty slick because just a little bump on the pedal will spin them easily. I'll give them some miles and see how they break in.
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. dstryr, since 1986 . |
#13
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The car and wheels look really nice. I like it.
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#14
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Nice car
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#15
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I like it too. Looks like a car you can have fun with.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#16
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Quote:
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#17
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Quote:
That said http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/154 75 is the AGCO suggestion, and I saw 55-65 for rally wheels on a Chevelle site. Discount Tire says 85+/- 5 on their site. A post on firstgenfirebird says 75. I'm good with 75.
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. dstryr, since 1986 . |
#18
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Quote:
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#19
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From the 1978 shop manual
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#20
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