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#1
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Power Window.
1969 GTO with power windows. About 8 months ago I powered the passenger front window down and left it. Warm. 6 weeks ago I drove the car on a 3 day trip for the car to be in my sons wedding and the window wouldn’t make a sound. Driver window works. In finally checking it this morning I figured I’d run a jumper straight from the battery to the window switch (female) wiring, assuming a bad switch, and I get nothing. Dk Blue/white should be up. Brown/white should be down.
I’m now looking for a bad ground?
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#2
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Might be a bad motor, or dirty connections. Run 12v directly to the motor and verify operation. You can easily check grounds and voltages with a basic multimeter.
Since you have a working drivers window, that rules out the relay, and fuse.
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1976 LeMans B09 Freeway Enforcer, 455/M40 Smokey 1977 Trans Am, 400/M21 Black/Gold Bandit. 44K actual miles 2017 Sierra SLT 1500 Z71 4X4 2019 Canyon SLT Crew 4X4 |
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#3
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Don't know why these things like to stick in the down position, but they do.
Could be the extra current required to get the window moving up. IDK A good bumb with the palm of your hand usually gets them moving. Not so hard that you tear up the door panel. But hard enough that you rattle the window motor. Clay |
The Following User Says Thank You to "QUICK-SILVER" For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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Quote:
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#5
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Put a test light in the circuit with your jumper wire. That will tell you if any power is going through the motor/brushes.
If the light don't come on I'd still give the door panel a few good whacks. If it's only one brush that's not making contact, the light may come on dim. And I'd still give it a whack to try and get it to run. Clay |
The Following User Says Thank You to "QUICK-SILVER" For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Give it the good whack while you are trying to get it to move, not before, but during, like you would an old starter that was about worn out.
"Bill"! |
#7
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I took the door panel the rest of the way off. I can run 12v into the harness from the switch to the window motor and I do get power all the way to the female end of the harness. The motor is completely quiet.
Is a torch required to remove the window motor? I’d like to get it up on the workbench.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#8
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In looking for guidance in removing the window motor I’m coming away a bit confused. Looking at the motor, I can see two bolts that obviously go through the door into the motor. In looking at my 1969 Fisher Body manual there are numerous templates supplied for various cars and instructions on how to drill 3/4” holes in the door to liberate the motor. They also briefly mention “E” styles and simply say “remove front door window regulator”.
Maybe I have an E style? Is it as simple as unbolting it and fishing it out of the door? I will note that I have run 12v to both spades on the motors connector with no noise and also gave the motor a sharp whack with a hammer/screwdriver with 12v applied with no change. Silence
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. Last edited by David Jones; 11-25-2019 at 08:29 AM. |
#9
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1st, the motor has to be grounded. If it has lost it's 'ground' it will not make a complete circuit. Maybe try adding a ground wire from motor frame to chassis ground? Then apply 12 volt to the blue 'up' wire?
Never seen a GTO PW setup, but on Firebird, I think the motor and regulator have to come out, then the motor separated? Plus it seemed the window had to be up to get to everything? (disconnect the window from regulator 1st to raise window?)
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#10
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How would it be grounded normally? I'm not looking at it, but I seem to remember a brown wire (with the up/down wires) leaving the door switch headed to the motor but there were only two spades on the motor that the harness plugs into.
I'm not finding much info on ANY A-body power window cars John. No matter the brand. Just looking at it, down through the top of the door and what you can see anywhere else (which ain't much), the motor looks like it's only attached at the two bolts through the door. It looks like you could simply remove the two bolts and out it comes. The window being up might help, but...if just the motor comes out, it looks like it would come out with the window down. On the other hand, I've read about springs and fingers and drilling holes to access fasteners and other issues....but never specifically on an A-body, so I don't want to just start taking things loose. Yet. If somebody knows otherwise.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. Last edited by David Jones; 11-25-2019 at 10:38 AM. |
#11
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On older vehicles it’s not uncommon for a wire in the harness to break inside the rubber conduit between the hinge pillar and the door. Over the years the wires in the conduit are being bent back and forth each time the door is opened and closed. Eventually one wire will break causing something inside the door not to work. Often when repairing that wire you will find other wires on the verge of breaking for the same reason. Not saying this is your problem but it is something to keep in mind.
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#12
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Quote:
If it only has 2 wires at that plug it would be grounded through bolts. The door would also have to be grounded to the car chassis. Try a jumper cable to the motor housing and to battery ground, then try 12 volt positive to the blue wire? I also agree with 1969GiPper.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#13
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Also, if you can get to the bolts holding the motor on, go ahead and take it off. There will be nothing keeping the window up (if it were up) so be careful around the pinch points of the regulator and glass.
Once off, should be easy to check if it works. Also would be easy to see if anything is binding up on the regulator mechanisms.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#14
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BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!! There is a counterbalance spring wound around the main pivot point of the regulator. This spring is VERY powerful!!! It helps to offset the weight of the glass and helps "push" the window up.
Both manual and power regulators have that big spring but if you detach the electric motor off of the regulator with out the glass to offset the spring force (3 bolts) the "scissors" action of the regulator arms unchained have enough force to chop off the tip of your finger. The motor worm gear & drive gear as well as the weight of the glass holds the 2 arms in the ready-position inside of the door. Be VERY careful!!! The glass is heavy and all of that together should only be worked on by someone who has training with car windows. I have seen people get hurt detaching parts that have spring force behind them!!!
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Peter Serio Owner, Precision Pontiac Last edited by Peter Serio; 11-25-2019 at 02:35 PM. Reason: spelling fix. |
#15
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You also might do a search in the 68-69 GTO tech section. I did a quick one and found SEVERAL discussions that would be helpful to you..
"Bill"! |
#16
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I had a few minutes early this morning and tested the door for ground. Nothing. I ran a ground jumper to the door and tested the motor and it worked perfectly. I’ll run a new ground to the door, lube the window mechanism and put it back together.
Thanks guys.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#17
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I also discovered the passenger window switch only works going down. I ran the window up and left the switch unplugged until I can clean or replace it.
__________________
frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
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