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#1
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Great development zilla! What are the advantages to this new set-up compared to the comp cams 31-1000 kit?
The comp kit spider does not look very rigid but more of an apparatus to keep the dog bone from raising above the lifter shank. Also the dog-bone solution appear to marry two lifters together, like the retro-fits, but on two sides although I am unsure if this is an advantage? |
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#2
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With this setup is there any need for the lifter bore mode. Is it still a good idea or not needed?
I'm referring to grinding a groove from the lifter bore oil hole down another 1/4 inch or so. |
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#3
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I’ve got another video I’m shooting with better lifter options than my last one- stay tuned!
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John IG: @crawdaddycustoms YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK9...Nc_lk1Q/videos |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JC455 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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Not needed with our system. The lifters are a simple drop in. That was one of the main factors. If you have a running car and decide to upgrade to a hyd roller, you can't swap it out as an assembled engine if you have to grind grooves in the lifter bores. With our system, you swap cams, drop in the lifters, set up the plate and go!
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Randy Repp 1964 GTO "GoatZilla" 1964 GTO "Injunuity" A/FX Nostalgia Super Stock 220" Rear Engine Pontiac Powered Dragster https://www.facebook.com/PontiacSpeedShop/ https://www.facebook.com/GoatZillaRacing/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/RebuildExcitement/ https://www.facebook.com/Call1844RacersRV/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/INJUNWARS/ |
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#5
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JC455, I would find it hard to believe there would be a better option in terms of the oil band then the LS7 lifter given the fact of how high the oil band is already. If a reduced base circle is the primary way of getting more lift, then my question ends up being how many degrees of rotation does the lifter cover up the oil feed.
Really trying to understand if any solution is drop in or would it still be best to tear down the block down in order to perform the mod. I look forward to your next video. Last edited by rohrt; 02-08-2021 at 12:21 PM. |
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#6
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The video stated the LS7 lifters were about half the weight. Is that true?
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#7
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im sure they are lighter as they are shorter because of no link bars.Does not sound like its a retro fit deal as the block needs to be ground a little above the lifter bores.Might be a good option for new builds.Again,chevy lifters so there could be oiling hole issues?Tom
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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The delphi ls7 lifter has the oil hole exposed in the picture the other picture is the sealed power 2148 lifter it has the oil hole .025-,030 down in the bore.
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#10
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Quote:
So which ones do you get if you go to a GM parts counter and order some LS7 lifters?
__________________
---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
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#11
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So what would happen if the oil hole came slightly above the top of the lifter bore? I have a spare block and went out and bought one of these lifters to check. One of my lifter bores is chamfered. If the lobe is almost the same OD as the cam journal, it looks like the machined relief around the oil hole will be just above the chamfer by a few thousandths. Would this even matter? Seems like there will be oil leaking past the body of the lifter anyway due to the running clearance, so if a bit more leaked out through the relief would it matter?
I also took the lifter apart. The hole is drilled on about a 60 degree angle. If there was a way to plug the existing hole, a new hole could be drilled on a steeper angle which would move the hole further down towards the roller tip. |
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#12
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As some of you know the sealed power 2148 lifter causes the dog bones to rise up slightly at max lift which is not supposed to happen. Over time this could cause a failure of the spyder and could cause some small metal filings in your engine. I have attached a couple of pictures of how I machined the dogbones to get clearance. I took .035 off of the flat and that gave me good clearance at max lift. The dog bones are hardened I had to cut them on a mill with a 4 flute carbide cutter but not hard to do at all. Just wanted to share this modification in case anyone else needed the info.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 68hotbird For This Useful Post: | ||
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#13
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Quote:
Also, the video stated the modification would only require a belt sander to clearance the backside. Are the dog bones you used and ones offered by the Pontiac vendor the same as mentioned in the video? |
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#14
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Credit given to Jim Lehart (CVMS) at start of video. I spoke with him years ago and he mentioned he was working on this but never heard it again till now.
__________________
Will Rivera '69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress ‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here: https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb |
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#15
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I'm not familiar with this place
https://www.facebook.com/PontiacSpeedShop/ They claim to be making this LS7 lifter a drop in deal. He says it will work with up to .400 lobe lift so it would work with my stump puller cam. I'm pushing to get my motor working again and figuring out what rollers to use is #1 on my list. It will either be this option or the Johnson short travel. Many questions come up. If the lifter weight is half for the LS7 then would I need to change springs and pushrods? |
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#16
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The 2148 sealed power lifter is a small block Chevy lifter that interchanges with some early ls engines. The ls7 uses a different lifter that may fit some older ls engines but won't work in small block chevys either. The ls7 lifter is different from ls 1-2-3 lifters which is why the oil hole is in a different location.
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#17
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Quote:
There's a video out there about this, and people are talking about putting LS7 lifters in Pontiacs as the solution, and some other places I've read about this have said the LS1-7 lifters all interchange, but you're saying the LS7 has the oil hole too high and you need the 2148 style. I think there are going to be quite a few people ordering the wrong parts until this all gets firmly sorted out. So what would an OE application for those 2148 lifters be? You're saying small block but it would be helpful to have an actual OE application to refer to. And, if you go to a GM parts counter to order this type of lifter, what are you getting? Who's it made by?
__________________
---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
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#18
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I think the cam billet will determine how far the lifter goes down the lifter bore!If a small base circle core is used the dog bones can contact the block!One of the videos shows the need to grind the top of the lifter boss.On high lift cams the base circle is reduced at times.Tom
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#19
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I'd rather grind the Tab then the block.
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#20
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Thanks for the link
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