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#21
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The ground cable should be connected to a ground rod via a bolt connector or sometimes hot weld( called Cad weld). It really should be accessible at the rod connection point and verified as being firmly connected as this is the primary ground for your electrical service. Homes built before 1978( I believe) only had to have one a single ground.
Can you take a picture? Quote:
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#22
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Hey West Coast, here is a pic...…….the house was built in 86, I bought it in 92, I thought you needed two wires, I have two copper wires going into my electrical box in the basement...…..im thinking I have another post , just have to take the basement window guard off to check on that.
Got to look into it some, talked to an electrician and he said as long as there is sand & gravel over the rod, I should be able to put cement over that. Thanks Rich |
#23
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I would make sure to leave access to the rod. Use a Heavy 4 or 6 inch PVC coupling with a recessed threaded cap. If you have any major electrical work done in the future they will want to inspect it. With the recessed cap it wont be a trip hazard.
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#24
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The photo shows an acorn type clamp connecting the ground rod to the grounding conductor. If you are going to cover with concrete, the connection should be accessible ( they sell small round pre-cast concrete sleeves and covers or plastic sleeve and cover at electrical supply stores or you can have an electrician permanently connect rod to wire with an exothermic weld called Cad Weld) If you have two wires going into your electrical box, then the other wire should be connected to a cold water pipe via another rod/ clamp/ wire connection OR be connected to to the concrete footing rebar in a Ufer connection. BTW, if you see bare wires connecting water heater water piping ( and maybe also connecting to a visible gas line) , those are bond wires and not grounding electrode conductors.
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#25
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Rich |
#26
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This is an example of both concrete and plastic ground wells( I called them sleeves). Concrete photo does not show lid. Both are placed to where concrete is to be finished before pouring concrete deck.
You can definitely getting a new rod installed away from the deck but if you use the same ground wire and extend it to a different rod location, the wire must be " irreversible spliced or exothermic welded". |
#27
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LOL, probably even a dumber question...……..why would I need access to it...….lived here 28 yrs and didn't even know it was under the wood deck...……
Rich |
#28
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Access is required by the National Electrical Code on splices, unless they use irreversible or welded connections. For the same reason that switches and receptacles in your home are connected inside junction boxes. Your ground connection at the ground rod uses a bolt threaded thru an acorn shaped nut to tighten the wire against the ground rod. If that came loose( or was never tightened in the first place), you would lose the primary ground path required in case of lightening strikes. The connection should have been visible from day one.
In addition, your home has ( like all modern wired homes after the mid 60's)) a three wire system of a hot( energized) wire, a neutral( grounded current carrying conductor) and a ground wire.The ground wire positively trips the hot( energized) wire thru the circuit breakers in case of a dead short. . |
#29
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Hey West Coast, looks like I have to get someone out here ……..just so I get this straight in my head, can I just get this welded and then I don't have to mess with the sleeves ……....or is it just easier to get a new pole put in elsewhere and run new wire to the electrical box...………...Im guessing this is gonna be a mess one way or the other.
Thanks for the help Rich |
#30
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If the splice was Cad-welded, then it can be buried the same as a Ufer ground is buried in the concrete footing. That would be easier and much cheaper than new pole/ wire to electrical box. You may want to check your local building department requirement in that they MAY allow an irreversible splice( something that you can do yourself rather than paying an electrician).
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#31
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West Coast, many thanks, gonna start looking into this tomorrow.
Rich |
#32
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Also every time I've built a deck I don't make it level with the door stoop unless it's really needed. I keep it around 5" down from finished height. Keeps from rain splashing up ( premature rot)and or snow instantly piling up against the door.
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