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#41
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Cliff I would love to see how your mounted your pinion snubbed. Especially if it’s an 8.5.
I have bolt in subframes that I added at the same time as the MTs. I think I’m going to put a weld on the front of them. I also welded the tubes. Not all the way around but I put spot welds on them. I was looking at electric fuel gauges last night. I don’t understand why you can get a cheap oil pressure gauge, but a fuel pressure gauge is way higher. M I did have a camera on my wideband for the 2nd run. I was expecting to see it go dead lean, but it really didn’t. Maybe it happens so fast it doesn’t show up in the exhaust.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#42
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Quote:
i also have bolt/weld in connectors & decided to weld them at the rear frame & bolt at the front so i can pull the subframe easily if needed. mine are the full length PTFB connectors that dont use the body bushing to connect at the front, they have tabs that slide over the ends of the subframe. 4 good spot welds on the axle tubes are all thats needed, dont need to go all the way around. |
#43
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My subframes are supposed to have two bolts at the front of the frame, but there was no way. Maybe the poly body bushings are thicker than factory. There was no way the 2nd bolt was going in. So I think I’m going to put some small welds in that I could easily chisel out if need be.
Mine has an 8.5 swap out of a nova. I would think it’s the same as your 2nd gen rear. So your just using a factory snubber but shimming it way up? I had an adjustable Dana 60 unit pictured in my head welded on. I suppose just using longer bolts and a bunch of washers on a normal unit is much easier.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#44
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strange they didnt fit to allow the 2nd bolt, but im not too familiar with 1st gens so not sure why. i have poly bushings in 3 2nd gens here & they are the same basic dimensions as the stock rubber, providing they have the right hardware, ive seen some poly bushings come with thick washers & some without.
the rear should be the same as 2nd gens & the location of the factory subber on the 1st gen should be the same design where it bolts to the floor directly above the pumpkin. yes just shim it to within ~3/4" of the pumpkin or use a "box" to be a little more solid than a bunch of washers to shim it but either way should work. & you will have to swap it out at the track since 3/4" is too close to drive on the street with it. takes all of a few minutes to swap it with no jacking up the rear. yeah the adjustable snubber is a mopar thing but cliff is correct that it should work just the same on these cars. |
#45
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It's electric so just a sender in the fuel rail. Autometer gauge.
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
The Following User Says Thank You to ta man For This Useful Post: | ||
#46
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On dad's car he decided to go with the in car electric gauge. Which uses a sending unit mounted at the fuel block by the carb, then it's just a matter of running some wiring inside to the fuse box and gauge. It's been on the car for at least a dozen years (probably longer) and has worked perfectly. |
#47
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(Apologies to Jeremy for butting in)
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"No replacement for displacement!" GTOAA--https://www.gtoaa.org/ |
#48
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I’m extremely interested in doing the snubber idea on my 76 Ventura. I don’t remember seeing one on the car stock
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GOD does business with people that mean business! |
#49
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"Before I came back to Pontiac, I was into Mopars, both A body and B body. All the guys I knew who were consistently winning with few problems did exactly the same chassis work. Before I got smart, my Duster wrinkled the rear quarter near the wheel wells Great advice, Thanks Cliff."
You are most welcome. Since I started racing Mopars before GM cars I was already familiar with how to set up leaf spring cars without using "slapper bars". I don't like the look of them, or at least prefer the "stock" look vs any "advertising" hanging down where folks can see it. Using an adjustable pinion snubber is an easy and effective way to start transferring weight to the tires and controlling "wheel-hop". It's also far less expensive that some of the more "exotic" parts out there designed to help control axle wind-up and pinion angle, etc.......
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#50
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Fuel pressure mechanical gage.On my qjet. I installed nut tight like normal. Then I figured where I wanted gage. Mine,2ndgen is outside to left of center of steering wheel. Bracket is long mounted to cowl then laid on windshield with foam to cushion metal against glass up to height I liked. Then I marked qjet inlet nut,approx at 3 o'clock viewed from front. Remove nut,drilled nut and silver soldered brass male fitting for 1/8 metal line. Worked for ever,just got to be careful.
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#51
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With the front of the springs clamped I haven't experienced any notable wheel hop. On my F body I think the snubber pushes into a socket on the under side of the body. So no easy way to extend if IIRC. I may have to look at it again. I need some type of adjustable drag shocks. My 60s are still lacking. I also recently added a Pertronix stand alone Rev Limiter. So now my motor shouldnt explode if I lose a U joint.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
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