[Andretti]

Great to see it coming back together. I know when you bought it their were no wheel well moldings installed. Are you planning on adding them as now's a good time for trial fitting.

[roger1]

Thanks. Yup, I have been trial fitting them. I didn't want any surprises later.
The seller gave me the set he took off. They have some dings in them here and there but I think I will be able to restore them all.

[roger1]

So after blocking both quarters, I was very happy with them and ready to move on and get it prepped for a complete application of epoxy primer followed by the 2K urethane primer.
I sprayed the epoxy yesterday. I used red oxide this time only because I had more of it on hand than black. My intention was to only spray one coat but I saw a couple of areas where it didn't reflect quite right so I sprayed a second coat just on those areas so I could lightly block them before spraying the 2K. One spot was high up on the p/s quarter over the wheel opening and on the p/s of the hood towards the middle.

After spraying the epoxy yesterday:





This morning I blocked the areas where it didn't reflect well and could see that would be correctable very easily with the 2K. It doesn't take much of a low or high spot to make a panel not reflect well. I used sanding blocks and just barely moved it over the panels just to reveal any flaws I might have missed. I did find a few and used just a small amount of spot putty on them.

I sprayed on the 2K urethane primer this afternoon. I'm using the SPI's Turbo Primer which their fast curing one. I put 2 coats on the entire car and then a 3rd coat only on areas that I thought might need a little extra build. I taped off the bumper. It's looking very good to me at this point. I'll start blocking it tomorrow with 180 grit.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by roger1

I'll start blocking it tomorrow with 180 grit.

Looking fantastic!

I've observed that paint materials seem to have a lot less solids in them these days (enviro regs?), and shrink a lot more over time than they used to. As you're getting close to final surface finishing, I would let the primer cure/shrink for longer than a day before taking the abrasives to it. A week would be better, IMO.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by keith k

Looking fantastic!
I've observed that paint materials seem to have a lot less solids in them these days (enviro regs?), and shrink a lot more over time than they used to. As you're getting close to final surface finishing, I would let the primer cure/shrink for longer than a day before taking the abrasives to it. A week would be better, IMO.

Thanks!
I've used this product before. It may interest you. It has special curing resins and it doesn't shrink after 3 hours of cure time.

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/turbo-2k-primer

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by keith k

Looking fantastic!

I've observed that paint materials seem to have a lot less solids in them these days (enviro regs?), and shrink a lot more over time than they used to. As you're getting close to final surface finishing, I would let the primer cure/shrink for longer than a day before taking the abrasives to it. A week would be better, IMO.

X2 on that

[Brewster]

X 3

[Greg Reid]

Hey, I'm getting bored with this thread... Just one perfect step after another. Can't you screw something up every once in a while? 8'))

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Hey, I'm getting bored with this thread... Just one perfect step after another. Can't you screw something up every once in a while? 8'))

Originally Posted by Scarebird

As much as Greg is kidding he does have a point; seeing pitfalls in builds warns others of issues.
An example was I saw nowhere the issue of putting the hardlines on after the front suspension - the other way is far easier!

I think you just jinxed me Greg! But you might also be speaking too soon. You haven't yet seen the debugging that will inevitably need to be done after I get it to be roadworthy.

Really though I did show that one screw-up last week where I found that bulge in the quarter panel. Glad I caught that one now. Last couple of days I have found myself altering some more of the cigar shapes along the sides of body. So, I've now sanded through the urethane primer in several places.
I've used all the products I've put on this car on other cars in the same way I'm doing this one so I'm very familiar with them. What I'm finding a hard challenge is the complicated shapes on the sides of this model of GTO and getting them block sanded correctly. I'm not totally confident I can get it exactly right but I am determined to get it as close as I can.
Member 68ragtop made and sent me a video of his car with details of how the cigar shapes are supposed to look. It has been super helpful and I have watched it several times. But I just don't think I can get mine to the level of his. His car is so perfect it is just incredible.

And thank you Scarebird for the tip about doing the hardlines before installing the front suspension. Not sure I would have done it that way if it hadn't been for you.

Originally Posted by dataway

I think it was Shakespeare who said "He is all fault who hath no fault at all"

So Roger beware of a great delamination event in the future
Actually I think you will prove Shakespeare wrong, and you are creating the Hamlet of Pontiacs (without the tragic parts of course)

I'm guessing there have been a lot of engineering tragedies in the world that could have been avoided if Roger was the project manager.

I think you have more confidence in me than I have in myself!

Originally Posted by 68gtoMN

Roger, I enjoyed reading this entire thread today. First, to your comment about choppy idle - fuel injection setups generally tend to smooth the idle on a "choppy" cam compared to a carburetor application of same cam. The fuel metering is more precise and the ability to adjust for variances is vast, so no surprise there. Great numbers.

As so many have responded, you have done the hobby a great service in this thread. You have given a master class in patience, planning for dependencies, being methodical and believing in your ability to just do what was necessary. Call yourself an amateur or hobbyist if you like - many professionals could learn a thing or two about how to do things correctly from your approach. The results are the fruits of your vision, your approach and your resolve. Many will be inspired from this effort and what was formerly too daunting for some to tackle will be transformed into action because of what you shared and how well you documented your journey.
I can't wait to see the finished project! Cheers! Kurt

Wow, thank you for all the kind words Kurt.
Now the pressure is on not to disappoint!

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by roger1

What I'm finding a hard challenge is the complicated shapes on the sides of this model of GTO and getting them block sanded correctly.

Oh yeah, it is a very complex collection of compound shapes! Not a flat surface anywhere on the car with the exception of some of the trunk lid...but it's also one of the most attractive designs of it's era lMO.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Oh yeah, it is a very complex collection of compound shapes! Not a flat surface anywhere on the car with the exception of some of the trunk lid...but it's also one of the most attractive designs of it's era lMO.

That’s a bodymans dream ! Just like working on a VW.....even the worst bodywork will look ok.....lol

[Scarebird]

As much as Greg is kidding he does have a point; seeing pitfalls in builds warns others of issues.

An example was I saw nowhere the issue of putting the hardlines on after the front suspension - the other way is far easier!

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

As much as Greg is kidding he does have a point; seeing pitfalls in builds warns others of issues.

An example was I saw nowhere the issue of putting the hardlines on after the front suspension - the other way is far easier!

You make a valid point but just for the record, l was absolutely kidding.

[dataway]

I think it was Shakespeare who said "He is all fault who hath no fault at all"

So Roger beware of a great delamination event in the future
Actually I think you will prove Shakespeare wrong, and you are creating the Hamlet of Pontiacs (without the tragic parts of course)

[dataway]

I'm guessing there have been a lot of engineering tragedies in the world that could have been avoided if Roger was the project manager.

[roger1]

Thanks!
I bought the tubing and wrap from Inline Tube.
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sid38-5

[ZeGermanHam]

Yep, that's where I bought the spiral sleeving for my car as well. You can buy it directly from the Inline Tube website, or through Amazon.

[Greg Reid]

I understand what you're saying MC.. I mean, flat is flat and anybody can see when it's wavy. The problem with all of the dips and peaks on the 68/69 is that they all have to match and remain consistent to look right... I think it's quite a bit more complex than the beetle body, but that's just my opinion which is worth just about what I'm charging for it...lol

[68ragtop]

I would agree, if you are after a super flat finish, flaws in the bodywork will stand out on these cars. I spent endless agonizing hours getting the body on my car flat. I don't just mean straight, I mean a flat surface. The flatter the paint & better the body lines, the easier the smallest of flaws will stand out. I found the trickiest area to be from the font of the rear wheels to the tear drop of the back half of the doors. But there are a lot of them. So many advancements in body & paint in recent years. That has helped a ton!

[roger1]

I totally agree Greg and 68ragtop.
Here is a screenshot from the video 68ragtop made for me:



I recognized how complicated the shape of this area is very early on and new it was going to be a challenge to block sand. He calls these tears and I call them cigar shapes. Like 2 pinched end cigar shapes laid into each side of the car.