[tom s]

Mike,never owned one so no clue.If you have one,PM me some numbers like from the water donut to the top of the carb flange.Tom

[tom s]

I hope everyone that has interest in these intakes check in on the thread from time to time.Although I have tried to prepare all to some issues I want to remind ALL that this intake was designed as a race intake and therefore was not designed for electric choke carbs.The guys that wanted or needed a choke used a manual choke on the rear carb.I have NEVER run a choke on any of the Bathtub intakes from original,Zajack-Johnson repop or Williams repops.Everyone is on their own when it comes to chokes.I hope people that want one and figure out what worked for them will share.I found progressive linkage best for my needs,BUT in race conditions I used solid linkage.When running AFBs make sure they have the secondary air valves and if going to Holleys most seemed to race the 660 center squitters.If I was to use Holleys I would use a pair of 700ish vac secondary carbs with the vac pods that allow you to hook the pods together as the 427 fords did.You will not be able to use center hung floats inline!To me a pair of 427 ford dual quad Holleys would be key if you have to have Holleys.We are working to see if we can get gaskets to go between the top and bottom but I have never used any! I have found a very thin line of Hylomar the best as if necessary to remove the top it cleans with a rag and acetone very easy.We are trying to make everyone aware that this was a over the counter RACE intake and was NEVER factory installed on any Pontiac race cars.Any questions PLEASE ask before you have a intake shipped to you!You can always PM,text or email me with questions beside call my cell.5622430570Im feeling the light at the end of the tunnel is NOT a train!Tom

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by tom s

I hope everyone that has interest in these intakes check in on the thread from time to time.Although I have tried to prepare all to some issues I want to remind ALL that this intake was designed as a race intake and therefore was not designed for electric choke carbs.The guys that wanted or needed a choke used a manual choke on the rear carb.I have NEVER run a choke on any of the Bathtub intakes from original,Zajack-Johnson repop or Williams repops.Everyone is on their own when it comes to chokes.I hope people that want one and figure out what worked for them will share.I found progressive linkage best for my needs,BUT in race conditions I used solid linkage.When running AFBs make sure they have the secondary air valves and if going to Holleys most seemed to race the 660 center squitters.If I was to use Holleys I would use a pair of 700ish vac secondary carbs with the vac pods that allow you to hook the pods together as the 427 fords did.You will not be able to use center hung floats inline!To me a pair of 427 ford dual quad Holleys would be key if you have to have Holleys.We are working to see if we can get gaskets to go between the top and bottom but I have never used any! I have found a very thin line of Hylomar the best as if necessary to remove the top it cleans with a rag and acetone very easy.We are trying to make everyone aware that this was a over the counter RACE intake and was NEVER factory installed on any Pontiac race cars.Any questions PLEASE ask before you have a intake shipped to you!You can always PM,text or email me with questions beside call my cell.5622430570Im feeling the light at the end of the tunnel is NOT a train!Tom

Just going to throw this out there, because it would be easy and not seen once assembled. Since CNC capability is at your immediate disposal, a groove could be machined all the way around the base and a small diameter continuous O-ring cord, (spaghetti seal), could be placed in the groove. No gasket, no sealer needed. That's the way we sealed the heads to the intake on our Billet Ram Air V heads. Clean and simple. Here is a pic of the groove.

[tom s]

IMO,not necessary.Two machined surface with a very thin line of sealant takes care of it.Everyone is free to have what you say done on their own.Tom

[tom s]

Mike,the only reason I looked into a gasket is because Brad at Fabcraft had already made gaskets for the factory original intakes.He would have to get a new die made to produce these but he already has the contact to do it.Its going to be up to him if he thinks the juice is worth the squeeze.Anyone with a Xacto tool and a sheet of gasket material could make their own.Tom

[mgarblik]

Like you said, 2 machined aluminum castings with plenty of bolts. A thin film of Hylomar, RTV, or even an anerobic sealer and your done. Doubt a gasket is needed. Can't wait for mine. Quick question as I get ready for it. What valley cover would you recommend for this manifold for the late model casting? The newest version with the front PCV or the mid 60's version with the rear PCV. Both are available new. Thank you.

[beemergary]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Like you said, 2 machined aluminum castings with plenty of bolts. A thin film of Hylomar, RTV, or even an anerobic sealer and your done. Doubt a gasket is needed. Can't wait for mine. Quick question as I get ready for it. What valley cover would you recommend for this manifold for the late model casting? The newest version with the front PCV or the mid 60's version with the rear PCV. Both are available new. Thank you.

Been using Yamabond for years. Its what Yamaha and probably other use as a sealant on split crank cases. I use a little paint brush to spread a thin even coat.

[sdbob]

I dont know so I'm asking , would afb s from mid 60s Pontiacs work also? I have one plus access to others. Linkage from 63 Lemans be difficult to adapt? Last question which SD hood scoop should I buy small,medium(thinking medium), or large? Thanks

[ANDYA]

Great news Tom. Looking forward to seeing what the intake is going to look like. So far the top looks fantastic. You guys are doing a great job!

[tom s]

Both of mine have the early with the PCV going from the back to the fitting on the back of my front carb and PB going to the rear of the rear carb n my 62 GP.Tempest is on the lift has not PB.You can always drill and tap a pipe fitting for the PCV between the 2 carbs.Tom

[Mike Davis]

Tom, I noticed the mounting style uses the early narrow bolt pattern for AFB's at the carb bases and not a standard 4150? Assume these will not have both bolt patterns correct?

[Darren 639]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33082602911...AAAOSwtJZXVhcV

Bought this thermostat housing last week. It came in two days. Chinese knock off butt I didn’t want to spend $600 on a factory one even though I probably tossed out a dozen of those

[tom s]

No,only the AFB pattern.Will need a adapter to run Holleys.My intake came with the center squitters and adapter plates when I got it.No way around it.The Carter Competition and E carbs I believe have both patterns.Gaskets with both patterns are EZ to get.Tom

[tom s]

This would be one of my choices for a carb.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16526995385...4AAOSw35Be7r9w

[tom s]

Your 750 Carters should bolt right on?Tom

[Mike Davis]

Originally Posted by tom s

Your 750 Carters should bolt right on?Tom

I have a set of Carter Comp 750's to go on it and they do have both patterns. Just wanted make sure that people were aware.

[tom s]

These make good 750 carbs also.Tom
https://www.ebay.com/itm/31381583802...UAAOSwQ51h0POw

[61-63]

Tom I believe he carb in post #446 has a passenger side fuel feed in the top. If so you don't want that if you desire the "correct" look, you want driver's side feed. 600-750 big top carbs are on ebay all the time a person just needs to watch for which side they want. Although the look is wrong passenger's side feed does make it easier to fab up linkage if a person does not have the real linkage.

[wbnapier]

On the Kaufman timing cover, I purchased the 8 bolt with dimple. There were some small issues.

It was not drilled for the location dowels, and that leaves some tiny adjustment that needs to be played with to center the crank seal properly prior to torquing. My machinist complained about this and I think he is right.

The inside of the water pump area is different from stock, which meant the divider plates wouldn't seat nicely without removing some material from the timing cover water bowl area and monkeying with the plates. Compared to stock, it was a hassle.

One, and maybe and another of the lower studs leaked coolant. For sure one pierced the lower radiator hose inlet casting. I don't know if stock is the same, but I didn't use thread sealant and it leaked and pissed me off.

[tom s]

Guys,John and i measured a 5in top AFB and a 4in top AFB today from base of the carb too the air cleaner base on the carbs.The 5in top AFBs are .825 shorter than a 4in top AFB.This will help with your shoice of carbs if trying to get them under a hood.AC height will need to be added.As I said before that a 69 T/A intake screen will be the lowest to use.Tom
Tom