[GTO3DEUCES]

Thanks for your feedback for my console question 👍

Originally Posted by TB1

Going from what I read these shifters say they will fit factory location with/without a console my car does not have a console. If you order from SST they have a side exit shifter that will for sure allow the console to fit see the photo someone else posted below.

[GTO3DEUCES]

I think it’s Silver Sport not Silver State...I really appreciate your pointing out the alternative offset shifter...👍

https://shiftsst.com/

Originally Posted by 70GS455

Very nice write up. Another option for those of us with the offset shifter is one from Silver State. They have a proprietary STX shifter which moves the shifter porch or turret to the side where the shift opening is. The prevents contact with the tunnel and requires no cutting.

[70GS455]

Originally Posted by GTO3DEUCES

I think it’s Silver Sport not Silver State...I really appreciate your pointing out the alternative offset shifter...



https://shiftsst.com/

Oops! Well I get partial credit at least

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[David Jones]

With the correct offset shifter it should work with a console. The TKO does.

[Gator67]

I just got a quote on one of these for my '67. Any issues using the factory bellhousing and mechanical clutch linkage? The company I used suggested a modified tail housing with side shifter. Did you have to cut anything to accommodate the offset shifter?

[Formulajones]

I actually prefer to use the factory bell housing and mechanical clutch on the swaps I do here. I never was a fan of adding hydraulics to the clutch. I dealt with that enough on 4th gen Fbodies for years and got tired of the issues they sometimes present.

The mechanical stuff has never let me down, works smooth as long as all your linkage is in order, and it's way cheaper and much easier to repair or replace parts when needed. Plus if you are adding a 5 speed to a car that's already a 4 speed, the parts are already there, and it helps to keep the swap cost a little more reasonable.

In the end it's up to you and what you want to deal with.

[TB1]

Originally Posted by Gator67

I just got a quote on one of these for my '67. Any issues using the factory bellhousing and mechanical clutch linkage? The company I used suggested a modified tail housing with side shifter. Did you have to cut anything to accommodate the offset shifter?

With using the shifter I have required a very small amount of cutting near the back edge of where the shifter bolts to the trans and the trans hump that is screwed to the floor requires a bit of cutting, I post a pic later but nothing major a small little patch panel was required. I was unable to use the factory non console shifter boot but if the car was console equipped this would not be an issue. The modified tail housing with the side shifter would fit no issues I'm sure. I used the factory bellhousing and manual linkage no issues and saved a bunch of money on a hydraulic release bearing.

[Guido]

TB1, thanks for posting your experiences! All your viewers appreciate it: I certainly do!

I've been considering the TKX since last fall for my '64 GTO. I'm in the US between DC and Baltimore and have been in touch with Silver Sport, who advertises, I think, over 25 custom shifter adapters. So far, they are my supplier of choice.

I understand that we need to move the transmission crossmember back, but is it still the correct height? I don't want to mess up my pinion angle. Please let us know.

Again, thank you for sharing your upgrade!

[TB1]

Originally Posted by Guido

TB1, thanks for posting your experiences! All your viewers appreciate it: I certainly do!

I've been considering the TKX since last fall for my '64 GTO. I'm in the US between DC and Baltimore and have been in touch with Silver Sport, who advertises, I think, over 25 custom shifter adapters. So far, they are my supplier of choice.

I understand that we need to move the transmission crossmember back, but is it still the correct height? I don't want to mess up my pinion angle. Please let us know.

Again, thank you for sharing your upgrade!

Due to me living in Canada I figured better to buy locally if I needed the warranty etc, But the Silversport set up with the side exit shifter would have made this all a direct bolt in I'd consider what I ended up doing is 98% bolt in It didn't require a welder just some time to make the one patch panel.

The trans cross member is moved back I had to drill one new hole on each side, basically the rear hole from the original mounting location becomes the front hole with the TKX or TKO, Pinion angle should not change at all I have been using the lower profile Energy suspension mount part number 3-1158G as I found the stock replacements available were too tall and the yoke would smack the floor with a passenger in the car. I also had to install adjustable upper rear control arms to dial in the pinion angle after lowering my car as wheel hop was pretty bad with the 4 speed I had previously. but I 'd think a stock ride height car would be fine.

[Guido]

Great news, thanks again!

[TB1]

Little bit of an update, I have the car on the road and driven it about 50 miles so far and I'm impressed with the way it shifts the gear spread seems to be great with my 3.23 rear gears. Only down side so far is I have a pretty good vibration at 70MPH and above, jacked the car up on some chalks to load the suspension today and had a better look at the pinion angle which didn't seem to be an issue with the Muncie but I was pretty hard pressed to go over 60 mph for the most part due to traffic etc. I found the trans output is -4° and the pinion yoke was basically 0° so I have adjusted the rear upper control arms to get the pinion angle at +3 and will test drive it tomorrow and see how it is. I'm thinking my lower profile energy suspension trans mount may be part of the reason for the -4° but I was unable to shim the trans any higher as it was close to hitting the shifter porch.

I mentioned below also about the cross member. I mistakenly said that the rear bolt hole for the rubber insulator will become the front hole for the new trans this is not correct. I had a factory hole just aft of the original front mount location this was used as the new front mount hole and the rear hole needed to be drilled on each side.

[Formulajones]

You're going to have a lot of happy cruising this summer.

[Holeshot71]

Originally Posted by TB1

I found the trans output is -4° and the pinion yoke was basically 0° so I have adjusted the rear upper control arms to get the pinion angle at +3 and will test drive it tomorrow and see how it is.

Are you saying you lowered the front of the pinion down to get the +3*?

I think if you are down -4* at the trans you will want the front of the pinion UP the same amount (-4*) minus a couple degrees to compensate for the pinion rotating up during acceleration.
So if you are down -4* at the trans you want the front of the pinion UP roughly -2*

Hope this makes sense, this topic can get pretty confusing lol

[TB1]

Originally Posted by Holeshot71

Are you saying you lowered the front of the pinion down to get the +3*?

I think if you are down -4* at the trans you will want the front of the pinion UP the same amount (-4*) minus a couple degrees to compensate for the pinion rotating up during acceleration.
So if you are down -4* at the trans you want the front of the pinion UP roughly -2*

Hope this makes sense, this topic can get pretty confusing lol

The trans is down 4° and I moved the pinion up 3° degrees towards the floor it was at zero when I started. I figured moving it up would be positive and down from zero would be negative? . I'll take it for a drive today and see how it is now, but murphy's law will show at 3° it will be to much and I'll have to drop it back to 2°!

[Gator67]

So if I’m reading this right, I may need to install adjustable rear upper control arms to dial it in?

[TB1]

Originally Posted by Gator67

So if I’m reading this right, I may need to install adjustable rear upper control arms to dial it in?

Not necessarily, I lowered the car what was supposed to be 1" but is more like 2" I also had to add spacers under my engine to frame mounts due to the oil pan hitting the center link. I found this after swapping the 6 cylinder for the 455, I then installed a lower profile trans mount due to the yoke smacking the floor with a passenger in the car. The car had terrible wheel hop with the Muncie so that's when the adjustable upper arms went in I adjusted them enough to cure the wheel hop issue. So in my case it was a series of events that lead to the adjustment yesterday. The trans mount pad height on the TKX vs the Muncie should be the same or very close.

[Vid]

Originally Posted by TB1

Little bit of an update, I have the car on the road and driven it about 50 miles so far and I'm impressed with the way it shifts the gear spread seems to be great with my 3.23 rear gears. Only down side so far is I have a pretty good vibration at 70MPH and above, jacked the car up on some chalks to load the suspension today and had a better look at the pinion angle which didn't seem to be an issue with the Muncie but I was pretty hard pressed to go over 60 mph for the most part due to traffic etc. I found the trans output is -4° and the pinion yoke was basically 0° so I have adjusted the rear upper control arms to get the pinion angle at +3 and will test drive it tomorrow and see how it is. I'm thinking my lower profile energy suspension trans mount may be part of the reason for the -4° but I was unable to shim the trans any higher as it was close to hitting the shifter porch.

I mentioned below also about the cross member. I mistakenly said that the rear bolt hole for the rubber insulator will become the front hole for the new trans this is not correct. I had a factory hole just aft of the original front mount location this was used as the new front mount hole and the rear hole needed to be drilled on each side.

Another thought about the vibration, if you haven’t already, maybe consider having the driveshaft balanced? I had a similar vibration in my’67 wagon and that cleared it up.


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[TB1]

Originally Posted by Vid

Another thought about the vibration, if you haven’t already, maybe consider having the driveshaft balanced? I had a similar vibration in my’67 wagon and that cleared it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The driveshaft was shortened and balanced with the new yoke after I measured once the trans was installed. weights are all still intact. Going to test drive later today and see how it goes.

[Holeshot71]

Originally Posted by TB1

The trans is down 4° and I moved the pinion up 3° degrees towards the floor it was at zero when I started. I figured moving it up would be positive and down from zero would be negative? . I'll take it for a drive today and see how it is now, but murphy's law will show at 3° it will be to much and I'll have to drop it back to 2°!

You moved the pinion up in the front towards the floor which is correct but that is actually -3° looking at your angle gauge, which is why I asked.. 😎

[Guido]

This is all good information for me: I hope to hear an update after your test drive today!