[67Fbird]

this conversation sounds very similar to my latest delima.....455 CAST piston ZERO deck motor and a selection of heads all with there own problem. The 7M5's...not enough exhaust bolt holes and 114 cc, the small valve 4X @98 cc then my lovely #62 @ 74 cc.....either get no compression (or header bolt holes) no flow with great compression, or TOO much compression with great flow.;.....lol
decided to work the 4X into a decent head. budget budget budget...

[Half-Inch Stud]

Getting ready to Slug the Rods. Super-lightweight assy. Sharpie is a key scribe for coordinating these things. Spiralocks!!!

[Dragncar]

96 heads right here ,300$.. Will solve your problem.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...56#post6266056

[Formulabruce]

MTBE was Much more dense than Alcohol is , so YES, it was easier to make this work in the 90's.
While alcohol does have a higher octane, its not Dense, so More heat is on its way, which doesn't help with knock, or ping.

[69hardtop]

I have a 1970 455 D-port with 64 heads. When we rebuilt it I went with a 15cc dish piston and a 068 Melling cam. My heads cc’d our right around 89-90 so my calculated compression is mid 9’s or so. I run 93 octane all the time with no issues, never really tried anything with a lower octane. I did have it balanced also. It’s pretty smooth, plenty of torque and pulls hard…I was criticized for not going with a more aggressive cam profile but I’m super happy with results

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 69hardtop

I have a 1970 455 D-port with 64 heads. When we rebuilt it I went with a 15cc dish piston and a 068 Melling cam. My heads cc’d our right around 89-90 so my calculated compression is mid 9’s or so. I run 93 octane all the time with no issues, never really tried anything with a lower octane. I did have it balanced also. It’s pretty smooth, plenty of torque and pulls hard…I was criticized for not going with a more aggressive cam profile but I’m super happy with results

People love to say you didnt build in enough power, but THEY dont buy the gas or pay for the added problems it can cause, especially for a fun driver.
what T stat you run?

[69hardtop]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

People love to say you didnt build in enough power, but THEY dont buy the gas or pay for the added problems it can cause, especially for a fun driver.
what T stat you run?

I run a 180 degree thermostat, fan shroud and Hayden heavy duty clutch fan. 12 degrees initial timing with ported vacuum. No cooling issues at all…..and I didn’t clearance my water pump divider plate because I bought the stainless one and I couldn’t get it to move much, and didn’t want to use a BFH
64 GTO with M20 and 3.55 rear

[67Fbird]

Originally Posted by 69hardtop

I run a 180 degree thermostat, fan shroud and Hayden heavy duty clutch fan. 12 degrees initial timing with ported vacuum. No cooling issues at all…..and I didn’t clearance my water pump divider plate because I bought the stainless one and I couldn’t get it to move much, and didn’t want to use a BFH
64 GTO with M20 and 3.55 rear

They BFH is the ONLY way I have gotten the wp plate to move.
I have also carved out a piece of 6x6 and use a little hand press to move it. Past experience has been 1/4" OVER PRESS.(due to memory)...so it lands where you want

[Half-Inch Stud]

Pretty sure i use the 180 T-stats for best results. 160 being too cold, and 198 being stoopid hot.

Here's the short block status: Slugs keyed to Rods for thrust surface and valve relief. numbering stamped and sharpied.

Many (6) grandkid interrupts so sharpie keeps the status.

[Formulabruce]

Gm ( ac delco) makes a 170 T stat I have used for many years as well, just a Fyi

[Half-Inch Stud]

I ordered .080" thick for 4.20" bore, and maybe shipps by mid-Sept. $300 for the pair.

Piston velocity from 4.21" Stroke should keep the quench alive.

Good ting i didn't drive to Norwalk (or local track); the Alum Water bearings were shot to a full wobble. Replace with BMG Alum $48 from Parts geek.

Sum-2821 cam and liftems came in for Spare motor.

[Half-Inch Stud]

SUM-2821 cam arrived: white boxed, looks fine but no identity stamped on the cam. hmmm.
SUMMIT Lifters arrived: Look fine but pump-up in oil bath not so firm. like .060" play left in each.

Summit Timing Chain: looks fine but upper gear looks lightly used, lower gear looks refurbished. Both are new but sure have their visual ills.

[Jay S]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

SUM-2821 cam arrived: white boxed, looks fine but no identity stamped on the cam. hmmm.
SUMMIT Lifters arrived: Look fine but pump-up in oil bath not so firm. like .060" play left in each.

Summit Timing Chain: looks fine but upper gear looks lightly used, lower gear looks refurbished. Both are new but sure have their visual ills.

Interesting. So there isn’t CWC” cast into the cam core anywhere? That cam appears to be identical to a melling SPC-8, same SAE ratings (rated at .004” at the valve). More or less a RA4 regrind, Summit must have added that fairly recently, I don’t remember seeing it come up on searches in the past.

Best lifters made in the USA are probably between Topline hylift Johnson, Muskegon, MI, which also make the lifter cores for Rhoads. Or Isky’s might be ok yet, not sure what their Pedegre is. No idea who makes summits lifters for Pontiacs, could be Eaton or Delphi?

[Dragncar]

I would go out of my way and some of the good USA made lifters on this engine. I have some of those white box lifters, doubt I will ever use them on a engine. Not worth the risk.
You can buy a Cloyes "Morse style" heavy duty timing set for 25$.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I would go out of my way and some of the good USA made lifters on this engine. I have some of those white box lifters, doubt I will ever use them on a engine. Not worth the risk.
You can buy a Cloyes "Morse style" heavy duty timing set for 25$.

So what are the good US made lifters?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by slowbird

So what are the good US made lifters?

Questions,questions.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Cam core has CWC cast. Just no informative stampings on either end.
Lifters had retaining wire, so i put my last set of C-Clips to the,.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Finally got the Pan on. 1-piece Pangasket TQd to 12 ft-Lbs. Checked and mostbolts relaxed to 9 ftLbs, so re-torqued to 12. Probably check again later huh.

Rotated engine upright, Put in Cam and lifters with Rev Lube. Then did the rookie move with the Oil Pump Drive: off align. Magnet gotit. Misaligned again and walked away. Really never messed up the oil pump drive install twice.

[Gary H]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Finally got the Pan on. 1-piece Pangasket TQd to 12 ft-Lbs. Checked and mostbolts relaxed to 9 ftLbs, so re-torqued to 12. Probably check again later huh.

Rotated engine upright, Put in Cam and lifters with Rev Lube. Then did the rookie move with the Oil Pump Drive: off align. Magnet gotit. Misaligned again and walked away. Really never messed up the oil pump drive install twice.

If the retaining tabs are still on the oil pump driveshaft, and the driveshaft isn't installed properly on the oil pump, I doubt you're going to be able to get it in the correct location now. Likely you'll have to pull the pan back off and loosen the oil pump bolts up, then lift the pump enough to line the shaft with the pump.

[77 TRASHCAN]

A Snap On torque wrench, that'll do the job!!!