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#1
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Why are there random pics of a dome light or the floor of this car in a post about the history of HD & SD exhaust manifolds, alternators and other options ??
--Porcelain coated headers ? There are not 44k active readers on this thread, that is just the total number of people that have clicked on it over the years its been active, most clicks are the same people still commenting that get notices every time a new post is made and click on it. Please start a new thread for all these off topic posts that are no longer related to the original subject, nobody is going to go back through 700+ posts to find something... make that 800+ now. If you feel the need to post duplicate comments on the options of this car and random duplicate pics of the floors... or pics of the trunk release button, start a new thread to discuss those things and put a fork in this one. Just a suggestion to keep things more streamlined & help others that may want to read about all the numerous subjects that have been discussed in this thread, if they were their own thread it would be far easier to find them... ![]() Unsubscribed Last edited by 78w72; 12-07-2023 at 10:53 AM. |
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#2
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Quote:
This one is enough. I get my daily headshaking smile and move on. |
| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to MatthewKlein For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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everyone at first tries to help a person out which is the way to be, but when the time comes that when it becomes obvious that you cross paths with a person that asks everything but you cant tell them anything .. cut bait..
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........... The More You Follow The Herd The Less You Can Be In The Lead .......... |
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#4
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Sorry, but this is an ongoing but too slow train wreck. Reflects poorly on the Forum to continue. Lots of silly posts within but mixed within solid information. Many times said different ways to help...... but in a progressively frustrating tone. Still repetitive.
The OP got the info. they need, now its just a meaningless Post. My 2 cents.
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79 Trans Am WS6 71 Formula 72 Formula 71 Firebird 69 Firebird Last edited by hojs69; 12-07-2023 at 06:35 PM. Reason: grammar |
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#7
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#8
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The Rhoads lifters are for improved low- speed manners in automatics not for racing Mike. They let you run the 041 with improved off idle throttle response and vacuum.
This is where you will probably explain that you still do not need them but your application is right up the VD lifter alley. Get your hands on Jim Hand's book its hands down the best book out there
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#9
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Right now I have an 800 CFM QJ on mine. At various times I have had dual quad AFBs and 66 tripowers. Secret to decent MPG is in the progressive linkage & tripower is best with a single large oval air cleaner as used on B-bodies. Little A93C pots are terrible.
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#10
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As yet I have not seen a comment on degreeing the cam. The cam card will state where the intake center line should be. Just picking an amount to advance the cam is not proper. Hopefully one of the various engine builders will better assist you.
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Frank M. 75 Firebird 68 Firebird 400 RAIII 66 Chevy II 461 Pontiac in AZ |
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#11
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are you stuck on the 041 cam? maybe step down to a smaller cam to move the torque curve where you want it.
what are the specs of the rest of the engine.
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1979 Firebird Trans Am 301/4spd (Now 428) 1977 Firebird Formula 400/Auto 2007 Grand Prix GXP 5.3L |
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#12
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in my opinion you're going about this a in a way that will not give you the results you want. sounds like you were happy with the old, much smaller cam. your gearing is also not ideal, let alone having a gear vendor unit. your engine will be cruising at an RPM range it will not be happy with. I think most say to install a RAIV around 110 degrees ICL for best results. You would use the advance/retard settings in the chain to put the cam where it should be using a degree wheel.
for example, even if you advanced the 041 to 105 ICL (8 degrees). it will be down in power everywhere compared to a high lift 744 (summit 2802). especially low end torque!
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1979 Firebird Trans Am 301/4spd (Now 428) 1977 Firebird Formula 400/Auto 2007 Grand Prix GXP 5.3L |
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#13
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ok for now i am stuck with this cam and i have the option to set the cam at 2-4-6-8- degrees at the crank . what should i set it at or should i just put it back straight up as it was before?
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#14
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When you talk about advancing the cam X degrees are you decreeing it or just putting in 2-4-6-8 degree keys? Murf |
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#15
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What is the intake centerline of the installed cam? That will answer your question.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/[email protected]" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. [email protected] mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
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#16
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Going with a typical timing chain and gear.....when the "dots" point to eachother is where MOST refer to as "straight up". That is all wonderful and fine but without actually degree'ing in the camshaft that is a MOOT conversation. You either degree it in and know or you pot shot it and guess?
Will it run? YES. Will advancing 4 degrees from WHERE IT USED TO BE bring the power band lower in the RPM? Who knows as you do not really know where it was. If it was already in at 106 and you move it 4 degrees --> 102 degrees CL....probably going to LOSE power EVERYWHERE but yes it will run. Last edited by Stuart; 08-28-2021 at 09:37 AM. |
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#17
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Another tid bit to consider. If one is going by a cam companies printed material with the description of a "power range" or "RPM operating range" it's generic information.
Too many variables involved.
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) Best time 5.13 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE Last edited by Stuart; 08-28-2021 at 09:37 AM. |
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#18
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FWIW, I hope you took time to degree the cam in when using the advance keys on the multi key time set. That 8 degree crank multi key compcams timing set is marked for it’s reference from the cam timing. Using the 8 key the advance is meant to move the intake center line from 113 to 105…. A full 8 degrees, not 4.
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#19
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Here is what I found on the net and if this is the only way the 041 cam can be manufactured then here we go : 308/320 231/240 366 hp/5500 rpm 445 lb ft /3900 rpm OL 87 LSA 13.5 IC 112 Last edited by Stuart; 08-28-2021 at 09:17 AM. |
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#20
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Quote:
This is a stock motor and ran perfect with the last cam and also with this 041 cam. The only reason I am even thinking of moving the power band toward the launch is that I thought I could. I am thinking of putting the gear back on the original setting with no advance. If some one thinks I can benefit some by moving 2 degrees at the crank for a one degree advance at the cam please advise so. Whoever said to go back to the original cam has the best idea yet, that was my original thought, however since I all ready have this 041 cam installed should I be maybe getting the Rhoads variable lifters and 1.6:1 rockers like others do . Going back to the former cam is going backward toward a smaller cam. What do I do to get better performance out of the 041 cam that is in the car now. I have new Johnson lifters in the motor now and HD Chromemolly push rods and 7/16" screw in HD rocker studs from Butler. What advantage can I gain with Rhoads Variable Lifters in my street driven vehicle anyway? I don"t want to waste money. Back in the day Royal Pontiac would shim under the valve springs and use Distributor curve kits and copper head gaskets etc... I do have the air induction Ram air pan with foam seal under the Tri power carbs. and cool air is just what this engine loves. I Installed a Trans Am Scoop near the windshield for working air induction on the 1976 formula hood.at one time I took the snorkels out to let air in to carbs and to cool off the headers but I don't have to do that any more. I brought down the engine temperature in other ways. Last edited by Stuart; 08-28-2021 at 09:20 AM. |
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