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#1
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Brake help
Replaced a-arms and went to install brakes and caliper won't stay compressed long enough to slider over rotor. First time doing 67 brakes, am I missing something? Friend accidentally loosened caliper bolts (ones that hold caliper together) lost a little brake fluid but never fully came apart. Did this do something? Thanks,
Bob Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk |
#2
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Sounds like you have original 67 GTO disk brakes. The 67-68 calipers came with springs behind each puck which would apply continuous pad pressure to the rotor. In 1969 and later manufacturers decided that the pressure did nothing but increase wear on the pads and rotors and caused some rolling resistance. I started leaving the springs out 40 years ago after being advised the assemblies were better off without them. Haven't seen a set of commercial rebuilt calipers with springs in them either.
If you want to retain the springs it's a bit of a juggling act spreading the pistons and inserting a temp spacer to keep them spread until they are slid over the rotor. I believe that this was possibly the only caliper design where the O-ring was on the piston instead of the caliper. Later designs allowed replacing the pistons when pitting occurred for a new surface for the seal to ride on. Our seals move on the caliper itself and pitting requires either a new caliper or a sleeve installed in each of the bores.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. Last edited by lust4speed; 11-01-2021 at 02:40 AM. |
#3
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We did this a few years back. Zip ties held it compressed for installation
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#4
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I do believe these are the originals, they work fine so don't want to rebuild at this time (later project), will try the zip tie solution, Thanks!
Bob Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk |
#5
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KD used to make a tool for holding disc brake pads retracted when installing the caliper. It had a screwdriver type handle and what looked like a tiny scissors jack. You put it between the pads and turned the handle spreading the pads. when you got the caliper part way on you turned the handle the opposite way and removed the tool. The parts stores used to sell it on the "HELP" rack. They might still sell them. They weren't expensive. I bought one many years ago and still use it.
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#6
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Found one on Amazon for $15, will give it a try if zip tie does not work, always love zip ties or duct tape when possible
Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk |
#7
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There are some on Ebay also ranging from $9-$15 and up. The newer ones no longer have the red screwdriver handle just a shaft sticking through to turn. They work on almost any caliper. They are also good for holding pads in place in the caliper so they don't fall out during instillation.
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#8
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You can use a 6" C clamp with a disc pad to compress the caliper pucks. Without the springs they should stay compressed long enough to get the caliper back on. I've done it that way for years on my disc brake cars and even with the front disc brakes now on my 66 GTO.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#9
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Mine still has the springs, if I were to rebuild them without the springs does anyone recommend a rebuild kit? Thanks!
Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk |
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