[GoreMaker]

In 30 years of doing this, I ain't never had so much trouble getting a head off a block. I tried a 6 foot pry bar in an intake port. I tried spinning the crank with all the spark plugs in. I tried a 20 pound slide hammer. Finally, this is what worked:



And that was with a crapton of effort. I swear I get less resistance lifting an actual car with that jack.

So if anyone is ever stuck in this situation, there's the solution.

[Jay S]

Wow. Those heads really wanted to stay on there. Looks like that jack fit in there pretty good. Shortly after I rig up something like that I usually find I forgot a bolt.

That looks like the engine out of your 77 T/A. Must have decided to get a little deeper into it than the rear main seal.

[GoreMaker]

I checked thoroughly for any forgotten bolts before I took drastic measures. The head gaskets were glued solid with silver sealant. That jack removed only one side. I had to re-attach the loose head with 3 bolts and repeat the process to get the other head off.

Yep, decided to take the entire thing apart and find any issues. I found an issue. Potentially a big one. I'm not happy.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com....php?p=6326411

edit: woohoo! Turned out not to be a big issue after all

[Mr Anonymous]

The 455 Pontiac I bought years ago had a big chunk out of the head on the intake side. It was crazy dirty and oily, and they pried the intake off with a bolt still in it. I bought a 350 olds off of a crackhead that didn't have head gaskets but still ran, kind of. Yes, you can rtv both cylinder heads on, but the results are obviously less than optimum - like Kennedy's trip thru Dallas.

[Sirrotica]

My father used to tell of the aluminum heads ford used on their flathead V8s. They used studs to hold the heads to the block. He told me many times that the aluminum would seize to the steel studs.

He said one of the accepted ways to free the heads would to run the engines with the nuts removed from the studs, the combustion would blow the seal and the stud corrosion, then the head would blow off.

He said on one car he was working on they tried that trick, and the car just sat their and ran, never blew the heads off. He told me the way he finally got the heads off, was to drive a couple cold chisels between the head and block. said it ruined both heads, and the customer ended up buying two new cylinder heads.

It was great to listen to my dad tell of the trials and tribulations that he had as his career as a mechanic, back in the 30s, and 40s. He retired in 1977. He taught me a bunch of the old timer, tricks of the trade.

[Mr Anonymous]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

It was great to listen to my dad tell of the trials and tribulations that he had as his career as a mechanic, back in the 30s, and 40s. He retired in 1977. He taught me a bunch of the old timer, tricks of the trade.

Mine showed me a bunch of similar stuff. My favorite on OHV v8s is leaving the valvetrain intact if possible, and taking the head bolts out - the valvetrain helps push the head loose from the deck.

[Old Goat Racer]

Just for "grins". How many head bolts are laying on the work bench ?

[GoreMaker]

21!

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous

Mine showed me a bunch of similar stuff. My favorite on OHV v8s is leaving the valvetrain intact if possible, and taking the head bolts out - the valvetrain helps push the head loose from the deck.

LOL, that trick doesn't help much with a flathead though.

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by GoreMaker

21!

Good answer !

[android 211]

I recall Permatex (?) assembling an engine with no gaskets at all and running it in a NASCAR race to prove what a great sealant it was. Advertising stunt.

[GoreMaker]

LOL! This one had head gaskets, they were just bonded in place on both sides with a sealant that grips harder than anything I've ever seen before.