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#1
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Amazement
I am constantly amazed by folks who post up questions as to how much power there new build will make!
Many of these builds are very high Dollar builds with aftermarket blocks , forged cranks and high port or wide port heads, the needed intake manifold and 1100 cfm or better carb, yet it seams these folks don’t believe what there engine builder has told them the motor will make, or they choose to not spend what it takes for even a cheap computer engine analyzer program to answer there own questions!
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I do stuff for reasons. Last edited by 25stevem; 07-23-2022 at 07:09 AM. |
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#2
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Mine makes more power than I could ask for. I am pretty sure I asked this question before but only as a fun topic. My machinist and Paul Carter did my building. All I know is its impossible to put that power to the pavement on street tires.
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
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#3
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I think it's just a fun exercise for many people and harmless. It's the total drivetrain package that makes for a really nice street car. Bragging rites are fun I guess, but in my case at least, I want an engine that has great response, some idle quality, won't overheat, can run on pump gas, starts easily hot, and can roast the tires at will cruising in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear. With a stock chassis, and drum brakes, that's about 500 HP in my estimation. Much more than that, your breaking stuff all the time.
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#4
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I think it's alright to post about an engine build and possibly gain insight on if its gonna make the power it should or if it will be a mismatched disappointment. Of course when they post about their engine and combination they get to hear 10% congratulate them on the build and 90% tell them where they are going wrong. |
#5
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But 500hp sounds like a lot of fun!! |
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#6
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Probably true of your talking wheel HP. I should have said 500 flywheel HP. Also should have mentioned my car is right at 2 tons. (62 Catalina). With the big 11" 8 lug drum brakes, I should be OK for a few stops before they are overheated. The 9.3" ring gear stock rear will be fine. The weak link in my deal will be the Muncie 4-speed. That's the item that will blow to pieces when really overloaded. Once I destroy that, I will move on to a much stronger 5-speed if funds are available.
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#7
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As Ken Crocie stated about making 500HP, "It's like falling off a log".
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve C. For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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When at Westec working with Steve,he has a formula he uses for street engines he has arrived at over years and hundreds of engines of all brands.Moderate hipo street engines withcams in the 230-240 range and running on 91 pump gas his dart goes to 1.25 HP per CI.For cams in the 250-260 range he moves up to 1.5 HP per CI.Not gosple but will get you in the hunt.Did not talk about full race engines.FWIW,Tom
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#9
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So everyone with a build going on should just keep quiet and not share? I always viewed it as fun, who can come close to the dyno results but maybe not? I'd bet 99% of the threads was about having fun guessing and had nothing to do with questioning the builder or not having some software program.
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#10
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What does that even mean.
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#11
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I have started those threads many times over the years on my RA V and the stroker 301 engines.Tom
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#12
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It means with the parts available today, any 16 year old kid can walk into Summit with his parents credit card and walk out with a shopping cart of bolts ons that’ll make 500HP on just about anything. It used to be a lot tougher, especially if you didn’t have a big block Chevy.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
#13
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As was mentioned. I think it's just a fun exercise. As most if not all these engines end up on the dyno. Another thing that is not mentioned is, some of you folks do this for a living and us grunts look to you for opinions. That in itself is a compliment to people that reply. just saying.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
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#14
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People should build cars to their own liking. There is no comparison in drivability and horsepower against the newer vehicles especially with AWD in the mix. If 400hp makes their build adequate that's great.... 600hp congratulations. I own 3 cars. 1930 ford, 1000whp<<<complete waste and mistake 2002 z06 vette, 700whp<<< fast reliable, daily driven but scared to break something even though it's fully built. And My 70 GTO which I will just shoot for 450ish hp when the time comes. I honestly have more fun and enjoyment out of lower hp vehicles |
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#15
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[QUOTE=TCSGTO;6359051]It means with the parts available today, any 16 year old kid can walk into Summit with his parents credit card and walk out with a shopping cart of bolts ons that’ll make 500HP on just about anything. It used to be a lot tougher, especially if you didn’t have a big block Chevy.[/QUOTE
TCS, Damn, you got that thing pulling! That a road paver grind?
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71 GTO, 463, KRE 295 cfm heads ported by SD Performance, RPM intake, Qjet, Dougs Headers, Comp cams HR 246/252 ...11 to 1 , 3.55 cogs, 3985lbs.....day three- 11.04 at 120mph ....1.53 60', 6.98 1/8 mile |
#16
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Running them on a dyno is always a good idea anyway. Why guess. Not really for bragging rights but for many other reasons. Dial in a timing curve that works, check for leaks, break in camshafts and ring packages properly while monitoring everything in a controlled environment. If there is a problem it's a hell of a lot easier to deal with now before it goes in the car. Especially if it requires machine work, you're already at the shop!!
There are many good reasons to dyno an engine. These days with the cost of a good proper engine build surpassing as much as $10,000 for moderate stuff, it really makes a dyno session a no brainer. |
#17
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#18
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agree, Its just a fun exercise.
quite a few race experts here and their experience on expensive dyno's make em plenty credible. fun to get a bragging right to say "well -big name guy- says it makes around 5,000 hp" lol, at least I feel that way. I recall Pete McCarthy stated in a magazine talking about street power "If I don't have enough power to shred the tread off a recap I'm just not happy" thats me to tee! now that i'm older I know my niche I want, burn a lotta rubber and run in the low 12's. where iv'e usually been. on another note though, seems a lotta race questions/racer replies in the "street" section. i'm guilty of that, but I enjoy it when a been there done that guru replies. info you can take to the bank! |
#19
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I would like to say thanks to post 14 for being 100% honest in his reply because this also the type of reply I was looking for !
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I do stuff for reasons. |
#20
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After going full circle, I came to the conclusion that I have the most fun with stick shifted 200-500hp cars in the streets... On a motorcycle? anything with two wheels and an engine no matter the HP, im a happy camper. Its funny how when I was 20 I wasn't happy until my ride was entirely built of go fast and machined/fabricated aluminum parts... ...Now I get excited by a decently quick stock looking old car/motorcycle with a nice patina...! Must be wisdom or age . Peter |
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